Am I capable of replacing my clutch?

[Juiced-03]

Ok, my Cobra needs a new throw out bearing....BAD! I am having a hard time finding a person I trust with the car right now. Ford wanted $800 just for labor :kaboom:

So I figured since the TOB needs to be replaced, I'll replace the clutch at the same time. I have a CF DF clutch and TOB sitting in my car waiting for install. So today I just got done installing my ported blower and though I have no mechanical experience, a thought of replacing my own clutch crossed my mind. I have never changed a blower before today, nor have I ever replaced my brakes (taking off a caliper or rotor) before this car. I change exhausts all the time and have no problem swapping pullies. This is my 4th Mustang I have owned and though I am only a backyard mechanic, I question my ability to do the clutch. I have a good variety of tools, but no air tools. Do you guys think the clutch is something I could do myself? What is involved? Any special tools needed? I am the type of person that enjoys learning on my own and I am not afraid to make a mistake.

What do you guys think?

 

[99Blkcobravert]

Just Do It!

Bryan,
This is an excellent time to learn how to change the clutch. Make sure the flywheel is still in good shape before you slip the CF setup in. :rockon:

 

[maddrabitt]

i think the hardest part is working on your back. that and the top tranny bolts are kind of a pain, other than that its not too bad

 

[vipergts281]

Good question as I always wonder this as well. I am capable of doing some things on my car and the thought of replacing my clutch has crossed my mind as well.....mainly because I can't see paying someone that much to do the job.

I watched my friend for alittle bit when he was changing his. He is very good with cars. Didn't look to easy....the part I saw was when he had about 8 extensions......I assume to get the top transmission bolts out.

 

[Emil]

The most important thing is can you get the car jacked up safely and high enough. If both answers are yes then you can probably do it. The hardest thing will be centering the new disk in the clutch, you need an alignment tool for that, if not the input shaft will not go into the pilot bushing and the trans won't go in. Good luck, be careful and you'll be fine.

 

[SWEET03COBRA]

So how hard is it to change the input shaft at the same time?

 

[Bob Cosby]

Biggest issues are the weight of the tranny and laying on your back, assuming you don't have access to a lift.

I haven't done a T56, but I had a T45 and TKO in and out of my 99 Cobra several times. There is nothing special about it, just take your time, have a decent set of tools, and keep safety in mind above all else.

You will need some extensions and a universal 1/2" socket to get the top bellhousing bolts. Also, the top starter bolt is a PITA, and when you get it out, most folks do not put it back in (including me) - I've run with only 2 bolts in the starter for years. A couple of long extensions help with these bolts too, as it is easiest to get them from the front of the motor.

Some basic instructions...keeping in mind that I haven't done a T56, so some steps are probably slightly different.

1) Disconnect the battery.
2) Remove the shifter (best done while clean, cause you need to be in the car).
3) Raise the car - support on a lift or jackstands. THINK SAFETY FIRST!
4) Remove the H-pipe. 2 bolts connect each side, front and back. Don't forget to disconnect all 4 O2 sensors (push in tab then pull apart).
5) Remove the driveshaft. Four 12mm, 12 point bolts, best to use a closed-end wrench (probably need some leverage on the wrench). Fluid WILL leak from the tailshaft of the tranny - so either plug it with an extra yoke or something else, or drain the fluid (even then, a little will come out - be ready for it).
6) Remove the starter (see notes above).
7) Disconnect all wires on the tranny. Make sure you get them all!
8) Support the tranny with a jack (perhaps with a piece of wood between the jack and tranny). Bring it up till it just touches the bottom of the main part of the transmission. A tranny jack works best (if you have it) - and above all - THINK SAFETY! The jack needs to be positioned so that as you're pulling the tranny towards the rear of the car, the tranny won't fall over, forward, or back off the jack.
9) Remove the bolts connecting the crossmember. The jack should be up just enough to keep the tranny from moving more than slightly as you pull the bolts out.
10) Slowly let the jack down so that the tail shaft of the transmission hangs down low. Keep the jack under the tranny! Note that the front of the engine will rise quite a bit as you let the jack down - this is ok.
11) Remove the top two bellhousing bolts. I like to remove these first because they are the hardest to get, and you want to get the easy ones last so that the tranny doesn't fall with your hands working up top.
12) Remove the other 5 bellhousing bolts (the total number should be 7). When removing the last one, do it slowly to make sure the tranny doesn't "fall off" the dowl pins and down on the floor. The tranny *should* stay put, but don't count on it - THINK SAFETY!
13) With all bolts removed, carefully start working the tranny back off the motor. There is a dowl pin on each side, and it will usually try to hang up on them. You might have to get a bit aggressive with the transmission, but so long as all of the bolts are removed, it will come out. Once it does, be ready! That sucker is ~130 lbs, and on your back, it will be a handful (understatement). Also, you want the jack positioned in such a way that when it does come off the dowl pins, it doesn't slam the input shaft down on the pressure plate. Look things over real well, take your time, and make "baby steps" when pulling the tranny back.
14) Once its off the motor, roll it back with the jack until the input shaft clears the pressure plate, then lower it.
15) THINK SAFETY! I most highly recommend having an extra set of hands, and most especially highly recommend having an extra set of hands when you start pulling the tranny out.
16) Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal. Don't forget to refill with 4 qts of the tranny fluid of your choice. This is done easily through the shifter hole.

Hope this helps - hope I didn't leave anything significant out, good luck, and BE SAFE ABOUT IT!

 

[Bob Cosby]

Changing the clutch....

With the tranny out, remove the six bolts holding the pressure plate on - can't remember what size they are, but I think 1/2" / 13mm. As the last one comes out, make sure you have a good hold on the pressure plate. There are 3 pins that should keep it in place, but that doesn't mean it won't fall off - and its pretty heavy for its size.

With the bolts out, the pressure plate should come off. However, when you pull it off, the clutch will fall out. Be ready for that too.

If you're going to resurface your flywheel, remove it now. 6 bolts. Unless you have an impact or a tool to hold the flywheel, you'll need to put a socket/rachet on the crank bolt in the front of the motor to keep it from turning over.

Reinstall is easy, but it should be noted that you'll need to turn the flywheel to match the holes up with the ones in the crankshaft - they will only all line up in one location.

To reinstall the clutch, put the new clutch in place with a clutch alignment tool, and get the new flywheel on the pins. Start the 6 bolts, then tighten the bolts a little bit at a time until you can just barely move the clutch up/down/left/right. At this point, where the clutch will stay put if there is no pressure on it, but when I can move it with the alignment tool if I try, I like to center the clutch as perfectly as possible. To do that, I work the alignment tool in whatever direction is necessary for me to be able to insert it and remove it with no obstructions. Once I'm happy with its positioning, I resume tightening the pressure plate bolts in sequence. Once tight, I again check the position of the clutch.

NOTE: I am writing both this and the above post from m memory, and I haven't actually done a T56 (many, many T45s). It is possible (even likely) that I have left out something important. I would ask that anybody that sees a glaring error to please post up.

Thanks.
Bob

 

[FireRed04Vert]

Bob Cosby...that is an excellent write up. I have replaced I don't know how many clutches and rebuilt about the same number of manual and automatic transmissions, so I have a ton of experience with this. As Bob says...safety is the UTMOST important item here. You absolutely have to have the car jacked up high enough in the air and properly supported with jackstands at all four corners. The rest is nut and bolt work. Also...read # 1 in Bob's write up. You sure don't want to be shorting a cable somewhere.

I would recommend you have a friend help you. Preferrably someone who has some experience. Make sure you have a good floor jack. That trans is heavy and you will need some assistance getting it in and out. You can use your floor jack, or even better, rent a tranny jack. I don't care how good your flywheel "looks". Take it to a machine shop and have it checked. Let them put a fresh surface on it. More clutch jobs are ruined by failing to perform this step than anything. Replace the pilot bushing/bearing too. No need to skimp while you're right there. Check the bearing retainer on the front of the trans. Any wear at all...and I mean ANY wear, replace it with the updated Ford part...and of course, a new throw out bearing. You will need some "special" tools to help you out. (long extensions, wobblies, etc) If you don't have them, buy them. You're saving $800 in labor, so spend some of it on tools. Oh yea...try and find a slip yoke or plug to seal the back of the tranny when you pull the driveshaft. If you can't, drain it before you start. Otherwise, you will have oil all over you, the floor, etc.

Above all else, BE SAFE and enjoy your new experience!

 

[Brad]

Not sure this was mentioned but you'll need a lift, you can do it on jack stands but it's not pretty. You'll also either need a tranny lift or 1 or two strong guys because the t56 is pretty heavy for just one guy.

 

[BoneCrusher]

Wow Bob, awesome write up man.

 

[Bob Cosby]

Tks.

FireRed04Vert jolted my memory on one thing I forgot - the clutch cable. Insert this at about the "7a" position, though it can be done just about anywhere prior to #12.

7a) Remove the clutch cable. I use a large screwdriver to pry the clutchfork forward towards the motor, and then just slip the cable inward and out of the fork. Once it's out, remove the little keeper that holds the cable in the bellhousing, and let the cable hang. NOTE: Put that keeper in a safe place that is easy to find - they have a nasty habit of getting lost!

When reinstalling, have a buddy pull the clutch pedal back towards the rear of the car. That releases the auto-adjuster, giving you plenty of cable to work with so that you can get the cable back into the fork.

Also, when you're putting the clutchfork back on, and then when reinstalling the tranny, ensure you have the receiver end of the fork securely seated in the pivot ball. If you do not, you WILL have problems, and you won't notice it until you're essentially done. Check it when installing the tranny, and check it again when you get a couple of the bellhousing bolts in and tight.

 

[SWEET03COBRA]

How about the input shaft everyone talks about. Do you just take off the bearing retainer and got at it that way or what?

 

[broke7]

So how hard is it to change the input shaft at the same time?

sweet:, I got your pm and im gathering some info bro...i did it in my garage with no special tools. Too manke it simple for the shaft swap minus the measurements. Here is a small explanation on how I did it in this thread a couple posts down.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147541


Juiced: I have done two clutch swaps now, first one was on a lift. No real special tools needed. Just make sure you have some long extensions, and assortment of sockets, and a uniwiggle, flexadapter, whatever you wanna call it.

Maybe the hardest part is getting the tranny lined back up when you go to install it, after that its a piece of cake. Make sure you have a helper and take your time. I was dreading doing mine, but now its another notch under my belt and my friend and I have them on the ground from start in 45 minutes on my garage floor.

 

[Juiced-03]

Wow great info Bob!! Thank you very much!!! But now after reading that, I may just leave it to the pros.

 

[mnypit]

3 things to add,

CF says NOT to reuse the OEM Aluminum flywheel with their clutch - check on that with them directly.

Second, you have to get the car way up in the air to get the tranny out from underneath the car, especially if the tranny reamains on the jack.

Last, on the T56 you can not fill the tranny back up with tranny fluid through the shifter. You have to "pump" fluid back into the tranny through the fill/level check hole on the passenger side of the tranny.

The hardest part of the whole operation is the weight and awkwardness of the transmission.

 

[Bob Cosby]

Hmmm....I just filled mine with Royal Purple Syncromesh three days ago.

Through the shifter.

 

[mnypit]

Hmmm....I just filled mine with Royal Purple Syncromesh three days ago.

Through the shifter.

Hmmm......I just replaced a T56 2 months ago and the shifter bowl was isolated from the tranny case.

Somthin fishy is goin here.......................

 

[broke7]

3 things to add,

CF says NOT to reuse the OEM Aluminum flywheel with their clutch - check on that with them directly.

Second, you have to get the car way up in the air to get the tranny out from underneath the car, especially if the tranny reamains on the jack.

Last, on the T56 you can not fill the tranny back up with tranny fluid through the shifter. You have to "pump" fluid back into the tranny through the fill/level check hole on the passenger side of the tranny.

The hardest part of the whole operation is the weight and awkwardness of the transmission.

seriously....its not that bad.....trust me Basic handtools, a jack, and jackstands will get this job done.

you can use the stock FW with the centerforce all day long. Plenty of people doing it.

 

[Bob Cosby]

Hmmm......I just replaced a T56 2 months ago and the shifter bowl was isolated from the tranny case.

Somthin fishy is goin here.......................

LOL. Yup. Was there fluid in the shifter bowl area? If so, how did it get there?