AMSOIL EA011 filter causing ticking on valvetrain
- Thread starter ZX6Ray
- Start date
The factory oil preaaure gauge is a dummy switch, useless for any actual data. Did you add any oil during the filter change (Including filling the filter before install)?
Yes I "primed" the new filter with oil before it went on replacing the oil that was lost when I took the old filter off.
I agree that the oil pressure gauge is useless.
Any chance I could get this information from datalogging?
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Not that I am having the same issue, but it is possible. I noticed some small ticking the other night after an extended drive home. I was letting it idle before pulling it in the garage and noticed it.
I also run this filter and 10w-30 SS Amsoil. I bought a motorcraft filter and will be changing oil this Friday. I will report back if anything seems to change.
I also run this filter and 10w-30 SS Amsoil. I bought a motorcraft filter and will be changing oil this Friday. I will report back if anything seems to change.
Unleashed has a lot of explaining to do regarding this... I will always run amsoil but he also recommended the EA011 filter. Now I hope with the 1k miles I put on the car since that filter was in HOPEFULLY nothing was damaged.
No ticking on cold idle with the EaO11, but ticking when it's hot. Changed to a Motorcraft FL-820 filter, and the ticking is gone.
Sorry, this is the first time I have heard anyone complain about engine ticking problems at hot idle from an Amsoil EaO11 oil filter. It could be a defective filter off of the assembly line, as you didn't try another EaO11 oil filter.
I'd send it to Amsoil for diagnosis. If it's defective, I bet they send you two brand new ones in place of it.
Had an F-150 owner complain about engine tick on cold startup for the first few seconds his engine was running. Come to find out, the aftermarket oil filter had a defective anti-drain back valve in it. He removed it, installed a new Motorcraft filter, and the start up tick was gone.
Moral to this story. He never used the other brand "XYZ" again because of one failed filter. Don't remember if it was Wix or Purolator. Is it justified to be shunned away, no...because every product has failures.
It happens, that's what warranties are for.
If that were true, the noise you hear would be worse at cold startup when the oil is more viscous, not silent...only to make noise when the oil is hot. Flow would be more restrictive at cold starts because the oil is more viscous. Flow rate increases at the lubricant gets hotter. Therefore, your theory could not be true.
Also be aware that Amsoil changed the specifications on the EaO11, and other Amsoil filters in the past 2 years. It was redesigned to increase flow even more, which did sacrifice filtration ability. Ford's FL-820 is also rated at 20 microns, as is Amsoil's. The EaO11 was previously rated at 15 microns. I had zero ticking noises with the 15 micron version of the EaO11, much less the newer 20 micron revision.
Ford's filter is cellulose base media, 20 micron, 93.7% efficient.
Amsoil's filter is nano-fiber base media, 20 micron, 98.7% efficient.
This is why nano-fibers can increase filtering without decreasing flow.
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-Unleashed
I was just taking a stab into the dark on my "theory" as I'm not the technical expert on oil and filtration so I referred to the diagnosis and testing section of the service manual...
Engine noise, upper end — knocking or
ticking noise, occurs mostly with a warm
engine at idle
• Low oil level • CHECK the oil level. FILL as necessary. (Oil level was fine)
• Thin or diluted oil • INSPECT the oil for contamination. If the
oil is contaminated, CHECK for the source.
REPAIR as necessary. CHANGE the oil and
filter. (Oil was just changed 1k miles ago)
• Damaged or incorrect oil filter • INSPECT the oil filter. INSTALL a new oil
filter as necessary. (possibly)
• Low oil pressure • CARRY OUT the oil pressure test. (10W-40 with 170 thermostat too viscious in 98F ambient temperature? Having a hard time believing that one-Already running one grade lower from factory recommendations on a thermostat that opens 20F cooler-Not likely)
What's the point in taking chances once the service manager doesn't see a motorcraft filter on there? Especially since the repair manual spells it out for the average lube tech monkey? Unless of course someone else is coughing up the cash to pay for it! lol Oil is oil and we already know amsoil outperforms motorcraft oil (that's a given) but motorcraft filters will stay on this engine until the warranty period is up.
I was just taking a stab into the dark on my "theory" as I'm not the technical expert on oil and filtration so I referred to the diagnosis and testing section of the service manual...
Engine noise, upper end — knocking or
ticking noise, occurs mostly with a warm
engine at idle
• Low oil level • CHECK the oil level. FILL as necessary. (Oil level was fine)
• Thin or diluted oil • INSPECT the oil for contamination. If the
oil is contaminated, CHECK for the source.
REPAIR as necessary. CHANGE the oil and
filter. (Oil was just changed 1k miles ago)
• Damaged or incorrect oil filter • INSPECT the oil filter. INSTALL a new oil
filter as necessary. (possibly)
• Low oil pressure • CARRY OUT the oil pressure test. (10W-40 with 170 thermostat too viscious in 98F ambient temperature? Having a hard time believing that one-Already running one grade lower from factory recommendations on a thermostat that opens 20F cooler-Not likely)
What's the point in taking chances once the service manager doesn't see a motorcraft filter on there? Especially since the repair manual spells it out for the average lube tech monkey? Unless of course someone else is coughing up the cash to pay for it! lol Oil is oil and we already know amsoil outperforms motorcraft oil (that's a given) but motorcraft filters will stay on this engine until the warranty period is up.
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Hopefully we are all just over-ANAL-yzing things and losing our hair over nothing but HLA's making some noise...:lol:
I recommend using 10W-30 ATM or RD30 with the 170* thermostat for a reason. Street use while testing oil pressure was much improved with the lighter lubricant. This included aggressive driving and drag racing. Ambient temperatures do not dictate oil temperatures. The cooling system will, and changing the thermostat allows the system to run ~20*F cooler than stock. This will make an impact on lubricant viscosity.
Amsoil 10W-40 isn't really one grade below Motorcraft 5W-50, after it shears in the first 1,000 to 1,500 miles. They will both be at the same viscosity.
You could also use a Royal Purple 820 filter for "tick testing", as it's the same filter from the same manufacturer as Amsoil's EaO11.
Amsoil 10W-40 isn't really one grade below Motorcraft 5W-50, after it shears in the first 1,000 to 1,500 miles. They will both be at the same viscosity.
You could also use a Royal Purple 820 filter for "tick testing", as it's the same filter from the same manufacturer as Amsoil's EaO11.
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oil pressure improved but are we maintaining the same balance of engine protection? Especially on hot summer days where one might be stuck in traffic with minimal air circulating inside the engine bay/radiator as compared to freeway driving?
*RIESCHE recommends going to a 30W oil for colder months for the 170 thermostat but makes no mention of running it year round which tells me it isn't necessary to run it during the summer months whereas a 40W could offer more protection.
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If protection were a problem, my 2009 GT500 would not have experienced the best UOAs using 10W-30 in Florida's summer oven. I've monitored oil pressure in the GT500 engine from below freezing to 100*F+ in Florida. For street use, with the 170* thermostat, I stand beside my recommendation of 10W-30 ATM or RD30. I will say again, ambient temperature will not affect oil temperatures nearly as much as engine coolant will. In the winter, it takes the engine longer to achieve normal operating temps, but once it's there, the cooling system will maintain it. Same thing in the summer. Engine rises rapidly, the cooling system stabilizes it.
At WOT, you could watch temps climb rapidly, however, normal driving brought them back into the regulated temps of the thermostat. Hot idle oil pressure never dropped lower than ~25 PSI @ ~800 RPM during temps in the 90's or higher. Soon as the engine reached 2,500 RPM, oil pressure was 65 PSI+, at 3,500 RPM it was at 80 PSI. This is with 10W-30 during a heat wave. PSI would peak ~90 PSI and level off, despite engine RPM. This is due to the oil bypass valve opening.
My point is, if the oil pump bypass valve is opening with 10W-30....then it's sufficient to protect the engine. Now I'm not saying to buy the cheapest lubricant off the shelf, I mean a true synthetic like Amsoil ATM or RD30.
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I have already researched years ago that running amsoil is the best option for any car but as far as the filter goes maybe I got a defective one...
Still minimum "ticking" from the HLA's with the motorcraft oil filter installed. I'm going to contact amsoil and ship the oil filter to them to see if they find anything out.
let us know what they find
Thank you for your efforts. I hope a good resolution comes from this.
Shipped the EA011 back to amsoil over 2 weeks ago and no word on what is going on. No phone call, email or letter concerning the customer's request. I ended up using the K&N filter since these oil changes won't be going past 6500 miles regardless.
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