Why would you have a hard time believing that an aftermarket oil filter could cause a ticking of the valve train when the oil is warm??? Before you become "skeptical" maybe you need to read chapter 3 of the ford service manual then get back to me... In case you need more directive it's in "diagnosis and testing"
As far as oil pressure there was no significant changes noticed on the needle gauge and since you didn't carefully read my first post I will reiterate for you that the "oil was hot at idle" which means the car was at operating temperature and that I did not change the oil, only the filter.
There are not a lot of variables to this situation. Oil level was kept between the two reference holes at about the 75-80% mark and I haven't heard the tick come back and since Amsoil filters weren't engineered to output a certain minimal oil pressure for this particular engine there is no reason to run it, that said...
Just sharing my experience. Do what you feel is necessary.:beer:
Why would you have a hard time believing that an aftermarket oil filter could cause a ticking of the valve train when the oil is warm??? Before you become "skeptical" maybe you need to read chapter 3 of the ford service manual then get back to me... In case you need more directive it's in "diagnosis and testing"
As far as oil pressure there was no significant changes noticed on the needle gauge and since you didn't carefully read my first post I will reiterate for you that the "oil was hot at idle" which means the car was at operating temperature and that I did not change the oil, only the filter.
There are not a lot of variables to this situation. Oil level was kept between the two reference holes at about the 75-80% mark and I haven't heard the tick come back and since Amsoil filters weren't engineered to output a certain minimal oil pressure for this particular engine there is no reason to run it, that said...
Just sharing my experience. Do what you feel is necessary.:beer:
The factory oil preaaure gauge is a dummy switch, useless for any actual data. Did you add any oil during the filter change (Including filling the filter before install)?
Unleashed has a lot of explaining to do regarding this... I will always run amsoil but he also recommended the EA011 filter. Now I hope with the 1k miles I put on the car since that filter was in HOPEFULLY nothing was damaged.
The filter media used in the ea's are 20 microns. Impedes the flow of oil a bit especially at idle. Just use the filter ford engineers designed the engine for.
Not that I am having the same issue, but it is possible. I noticed some small ticking the other night after an extended drive home. I was letting it idle before pulling it in the garage and noticed it.
I also run this filter and 10w-30 SS Amsoil. I bought a motorcraft filter and will be changing oil this Friday. I will report back if anything seems to change.
I recommend using 10W-30 ATM or RD30 with the 170* thermostat for a reason. Street use while testing oil pressure was much improved with the lighter lubricant.
oil pressure improved but are we maintaining the same balance of engine protection? Especially on hot summer days where one might be stuck in traffic with minimal air circulating inside the engine bay/radiator as compared to freeway driving?
*RIESCHE recommends going to a 30W oil for colder months for the 170 thermostat but makes no mention of running it year round which tells me it isn't necessary to run it during the summer months whereas a 40W could offer more protection.
Now I'm not saying to buy the cheapest lubricant off the shelf, I mean a true synthetic like Amsoil ATM or RD30.
I have already researched years ago that running amsoil is the best option for any car but as far as the filter goes maybe I got a defective one...
Still minimum "ticking" from the HLA's with the motorcraft oil filter installed. I'm going to contact amsoil and ship the oil filter to them to see if they find anything out.