another break in Oil question.

CuZzO99L

BLACK SUNSHINE
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So I finally got my car back and tuned. Hellion kit is beyond words badass. Here is my question. As soon as my MMR motor went in and my Hellion kit was installed it went straight to the dyno. Now I thought my tech put non synthetic 10-30 in it as requested by MMR but he put 5-30 motorcraft synthetic blend in it. :nonono: well I just found this out and my car would definitely be what I call broken in now, because this thing Now has alot.....and I mean Alot of heat cycling and drivability that was done on it due to various small issues and it was in the end dynoed Hot and and its spot on now. Now I'm still on the same first oil. Not wanting to put a mile more on it without dropping the oil. Would it hurt anything to stay on that weight oil or should I go back to what MMR wanted??r. It would also not be fun to switch oil weights again because my oil lines for turbos are jetted to flow a certain amount now which of course will vary with oil weight. But at the same time I want what's best for the engine for longevity. Thanks
 

UnleashedBeast

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No harm, no foul using Motorcraft synthetic blend for a break in oil. It only contains a small percentage of synthetic. More than 70% of that lubricant is group II petroleum ("dino oil"). It's ready to change, do it now.

You live in a very hot summer climate, so my experience is going to point you towards a true synthetic 10W-30 for street use, street brawls, and drag racing. I don't believe you built the car for road course racing, as it's pretty aggressive.

With your turbo car, it's recommended to have an oil pressure gauge to monitor oil pressure. If hot oil idle pressure is dropping to less than 20 PSI, you may need to increase viscosity to a true synthetic 10W-40. If not, you are golden.

Don't lose sleep over 5W versus 10W. Both weights are going to be the same viscosity at full operating temperatures. The only difference is how each formulation thickens as the lubricant cools. However, different base stocks play a vital role in this, and SAE numbers on an oil bottle can be very misleading. You can read about the details of that debate right here.

This is a direct link to post #31 in this thread, post #30 has a lot more useful information for you.

Why 10W-30?

Until the temperature drops below 32*F, you can't tell that a 10W is even there. Even then, only a person use to the difference would ever know.

In summary, there is no WAY on earth I would use anything less in your built engine than the three lubricants listed below.

Amsoil ATM 10W-30

Royal Purple HPS 10W-30

Red Line 10W-30

PM me, and I can get you Amsoil @ dealer cost.

Troy
 
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AlanSVT

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hope you get the oil issue worked out but I would love to hear what kinda numbers you put out with the kit.
 

CuZzO99L

BLACK SUNSHINE
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I don't have a sheet to upload or anything..its been such a long time coming love/hate relationship with this build that I told my tuner I didn't care what it made and didn't wanna chase any dyno numbers I just wanted my car back to see if I'm gonna stay with this setup for the long run. I think the car made around 720/7?? On 20psi. However when I start the car the eboost2 defaults to 18psi then I just press the up arrow to the 720. When He tuned the car he tuned hot with no cool down time from tuning drivability and no fans. 75° to 80° degrees or so outside. He said its really safe 11.2 a/f across board. Now the only time I tried running it on 20psi it kept going into over boost on the eboost2 because its about 15-20° colder right now then it was when he tuned it. So I believe its making way more boost. On the first tune.......the car is absolutely ridiculous to drive on the street. 3rd gear rolling into it at 50mph 3200rpm destroys my 555Rs for about 2-3sec then it just sounds like a damn Jet... I really can't even imagine the other tune. And thats really not alot of HP when compared to what you guys normally post up on here lol. Who knows I hope I keep falling in love with it with minor issues so I can go back an get a race gas tune with more boost and hopefully see some bigger numbers ! ALAN can you PLEASE get me a parts list of your breather setup so I can clean up mine!! I would really appreciate it if you had a second. Thanks man!
 
Last edited:

crazyrifle

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No harm, no foul using Motorcraft synthetic blend for a break in oil. It only contains a small percentage of synthetic. More than 70% of that lubricant is group II petroleum ("dino oil"). It's ready to change, do it now.

You live in a very hot summer climate, so my experience is going to point you towards a true synthetic 10W-30 for street use, street brawls, and drag racing. I don't believe you built the car for road course racing, as it's pretty aggressive.

With your turbo car, it's recommended to have an oil pressure gauge to monitor oil pressure. If hot oil idle pressure is dropping to less than 20 PSI, you may need to increase viscosity to a true synthetic 10W-40. If not, you are golden.

Don't lose sleep over 5W versus 10W. Both weights are going to be the same viscosity at full operating temperatures. The only difference is how each formulation thickens as the lubricant cools. However, different base stocks play a vital role in this, and SAE numbers on an oil bottle can be very misleading. You can read about the details of that debate right here.

This is a direct link to post #31 in this thread, post #30 has a lot more useful information for you.

Why 10W-30?

Until the temperature drops below 32*F, you can't tell that a 10W is even there. Even then, only a person use to the difference would ever know.

In summary, there is no WAY on earth I would use anything less in your built engine than the three lubricants listed below.

Amsoil ATM 10W-30

Royal Purple HPS 10W-30

Red Line 10W-30

PM me, and I can get you Amsoil @ dealer cost.

Troy






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Automotive - Royal Purple
 

Modular Racing

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With our engines (and most engines for that matter) it is best to break it in with a non synthetic, this is because most synthetics are so slippery that the new rings have a hard time seating/breaking in. Its not the end of the world by any mean and it will be just fine either way, it is simply a suggestion!

Sounds like your new MMR engine is working out great for you! Thank you again for the business - enjoy!!

outlaw%20launch%20new%202.jpg
 

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