Are there significant differences in oil filters?

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Stormtrooper
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I have seen a couple of oil filter tear down videos, yet nothing that left me thinking "man that filter is by far superior". It seems like the concept of an oil filter is pretty simple, and unless a company is using inferior parts I don't really understand how one could be better than the other. I'm also curious if the price of filters, generally, correlates to the quality of the filter? I am by no means a mechanic, and hardly do any of my own work. Yet everytime i've changed my oil i have used Mobile1 filters even though they seem to be the most expensive. Maybe just good advertising getting the best of me?

Iv also heard alot of negative things about Royal purple, id be curious to know where all the negative associations come from? Thanks :beer:
 

oldmodman

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Quality and material of anti drainback valve is one difference that is important.

Housing burst pressure is another. A quick rev on a cold start could, with some types of engines, build enough pressure to pop one like a balloon.

Then there has been a ton of testing on filter media and length of the unfolded media.
 

UnleashedBeast

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What oldmodman just posted is the key.

I'd like to focus deeper on media type, as current nano-fiber techonology (micro glass as Royal Purple calls it) is superior to all other cellulose and other synthetic blend media.

Nano-fiber offers better filtration, better efficiency to smaller microns, yet still be as nonrestrictive as lesser medias offering less filtration ability. Nano-fibers also contain wire backing so the media doesn't deform during use, metal end caps, and strong inner metal support cylinders. Not to mention a superior adhesive so it all stays together.

Combine this with a better anti-drain back valves that are made of materials that do not fail under intense heat, better bypass valves, thicker metal cans for increased burst pressure, thicker base plates, and you have one superior filter.

Amsoil nano-fiber wire backed media
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Royal Purple has the same wire backing and micro-fiber media. Both filters are currently manufactured by Champion Labs.
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Mobil 1 and K&N oil filters are both manufactured by Champion Labs as well. They use a cheaper synthetic blend cellulose media. Same filter, different paint and labels.
Mobil1M1-301EP.jpg


KNHP-3001.jpg


Then you have one of the best bangs for your buck, Motorcraft FL series. Cheaper than most, yet average performance. It does have a weak metal can and smaller anti drain back valve.
1eddb1eb.jpg
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Fram offers a few different versions of their branded oil filters.

PH - cellulose end caps BAD!
bde27c8a.jpg


TG - still has cellulose end caps DUMB!
0091897e.jpg


XG - The only Fram filter that has metal end caps and a stronger inner cylinder support
27301d23.jpg


Even their racing filter has cellulose end caps. FAIL FRAM!!!
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What does a cheap media do with cellulose end caps and weak inner support? Collapse under the pressure.
8c00f463.jpg
 
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glittle75

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I use nothing but Motorcrafts in mine. Never had a problem. The Escape gets them as well. In my earlier days, I used fram, but then a good friend told me to cut it open. After 2000 miles, to see what was going on. He said it would make you never buy one again. I did, and the above picture is better than what mine looked like on a '99 Cavalier, 4cyl DD. It was chewed up on the inside, the paper was falling apart. Im wondering how much of the filter was in the engine.
Question from me, anyone have any input on the Ford Racing filters? I can get the cheap by the case, but I can't find any info on them.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Question from me, anyone have any input on the Ford Racing filters? I can get the cheap by the case, but I can't find any info on them.

I have one to cut open for pictures, but I already know it's a synthetic cellulose blend media with metal caps, strong inner support, thick can, etc.
 

03venum

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Would like to see a cut open Wix filter I am told they have a better anti drain back valve than the Amsoil and RP
 
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46-062

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I use Motorcraft and Mobil1 filters. Pure filters also have very good reputations.

I have experienced exactly one catastrophic oil filter failure in my lifetime. Would you believe a FRAM filter failed???

I was exiting the 405 Freeway in Southern California in my 1972 Fiat 128 and just happened to notice the oil pressure warning light as it came on. I immediately turned off the ignition and locked the steering column. Fortunately, the off ramp was straight and I managed to turn the key have way to unlock the steering before I ran off the road.

I coasted into the Mobil station at the bottom of the off ramp and found the filter canister had blown completely off and the filter element was missing. The filter base plate was still firm;y attached to the engine block.

I was very lucky that I was looking at the oil pressure warning light as it came on and turned the engine off in about a second with no damage.

Obviously, I have NEVER purchased or used a FRAM filter since that day in 1975. I'm amazed that every 1960s and 1970s Ferrari V12 I see has two FRAM filters mounted on it. I guess they were OEM.
 

46-062

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Fram fail stories are a dime a dozen. I honestly don't know how the company gets away with it.

Fram: Catastrophic failures since at least 1975. It's at least our 37th Anniversary!

Here' a photo of a vintage Ferrari V12 with two Fram filters. Since they are plumbed in-line, if either fails you're SOL. Wait... Doesn't using two Fram filters just double the chance of catastrophic failure? :banana:

1967_Ferrari_330_GT_For_Sale_Engine_resize.jpg
 

46-062

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They advertise their oil filters on TV... nothing but lies.

My favorite is the test rig used to measure burst pressure. Isn't amazing that my 1972 Fiat 1,116cc four banger could generate more pressure than Fram's testing machine?
 

UnleashedBeast

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i use motorcraft, theyre cheaper than the regular fram filters at walmart
i would use amsoil if they werent so expensive

The MC FL820 is a far better filter than Fram. It has metal end caps and a much more solid structure.

Amsoil EaO11 oil filters are $13.15 each @ dealer cost (preferred customers buy @ dealer cost). I only have to buy one per year for the GT500.

Spending double on a better oil filter once a year is a no brainer. In fact, i'd be stupid NOT to do it. Better filtration, better flow, stronger, no worries of failure during the year, etc.
 
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oldmodman

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A co-worker has an early 70's Ferrari and I was watching when a brand new Fram blew up. He had just changed the oil, started the car and after 30 seconds of idling gave the throttle a little blip. Only to about 3500 rpm. This was on a V-8 engine. One thing for sure, that engine will never have an external rust problem.
 

snakeraper11b

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My remote mount inline set up.
005.jpg


2nd stage drop in element
dropinfilter.jpg


This CM filter is a 9" long two stage filter, with two separate filter elements. Oil is first directed through a fine screen stainless element before being passed through a synthetic fiber element. The stainless screen element also acts as an inspection site during oil changes. The housing gets reused on changes and you simply drop in the new filter. the 2 replacement filters options are 8 micron or 40 micron. Pretty sweet set up since I had to go remote mount anyways.
 

1hot281

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Bravo UnleashedBeast, +1 on everything you stated. Amsoil or Royal Purple are the route to go for filters.

If money is an issue for some, I guess OEM is a decent fall back, but I'd rather pony up the few extra dollars once a year...

I personally go with Amsoil filters on my Saleen... I currently have a K&N oil filter on my daily driver Honda Civic, but at the next change it's either going back to OEM Honda or to an Amsoil Ea.
 

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