Blew a spark plug

[Iluvatar]

The other day my car started shaking and making a pronounced rattling noise so I popped the hood and heard it coming from the head. I gave it time to cool down to pull the plugs. The boot on the COP was in a few pieces and the coil was mangled. I pulled the plug, which had stripped the threads in the head, and there was no gap (the arm was bent over onto the electrode).

What is the process on installing a timesert and where do you buy them? Could I do it myself without pulling the head?

and

I don't have the cash or mechanical know how for a rebuild. In your opinion without tearing the engine apart is the piston ok? Is there another explanation for the arm on the plug being bent than the piston hitting it?

 

[Sveet01]

Your piston probably didnt hit it, it probably just hit the bottom of the COP hole and bent. They are really easy to bend over, a small drop could of done that. I would predict the spark plug would have looked like someone hit it with a sledgehammer if the piston hit it.

Just get the hole helicoiled and you should hopefully be good to go.

 

[divided]

The timesert kit (which I would choose over the Helicoil, and did when mine blew) can be installed with the heads on the car.

It's rare but possible that the piston got damaged. Mine didn't.

 

[E. Green Cobra]

Mine spit the # 2 plug through the COP two weeks ago, I'm still searching for a shop that can do it, before I spend the cash on the tools to do it myself.

For those that have done it, did you have to pull the valve cover?

 

[slonech]

i had the same problem on mine... we did a timesert on it and it blew it again within a week... i ended up being fed up and went ahead and dropped the money on a set of 03/04 cobra heads and had my 01 cams installed and degreed properly with arp hardware.... those combined with a set of long tubes for an 03/04 really woke my car up!

 

[divided]

i had the same problem on mine... we did a timesert on it and it blew it again within a week... i ended up being fed up and went ahead and dropped the money on a set of 03/04 cobra heads and had my 01 cams installed and degreed properly with arp hardware.... those combined with a set of long tubes for an 03/04 really woke my car up!

I've heard of the helicoil kits blowing out, but never a timesert. Any more information? Who did the install?

 

[Iluvatar]

Mine spit the # 2 plug through the COP two weeks ago, I'm still searching for a shop that can do it, before I spend the cash on the tools to do it myself.

For those that have done it, did you have to pull the valve cover?

That's kinda what I'm wondering. You have to have the valves closed before you tap the hole so I would assume you need to see the lobe position on the cams to make sure.

I see Divided has posted in quite a few of these types of threads, maybe he has some input on the specifics.

 

[slonech]

I've heard of the helicoil kits blowing out, but never a timesert. Any more information? Who did the install?

it was taken to a local shop here in tampa that i used to use... and i am pretty sure they just did a helicoil on it but i dont have alot of information... :shrug:

dont want to do any type of bashing... but it turned into a GREAT chance to get better flowing heads LOL

 

[Brutal Metal]

I wouldn't worry so much about the piston than I would the cylinder wall, any oil coming up through the spark plug hole?

 

[Iluvatar]

No, the plug was dry when I pulled it. Some of the other plugs have a very small amount of oil on them.

 

[E. Green Cobra]

I wouldn't worry so much about the piston than I would the cylinder wall, any oil coming up through the spark plug hole?

I've got oil, though not sure if its from the valve cover or from the cylinder. Don't care too much either way; as the 4.6 is coming out in the next 6-8months, and it's not my DD.

 

[Brutal Metal]

Mine spit the # 2 plug through the COP two weeks ago, I'm still searching for a shop that can do it, before I spend the cash on the tools to do it myself.

For those that have done it, did you have to pull the valve cover?

My friend Joe owns FordSpeedRacing here in Clearwater, it's a little ways from FT Myers but he can help you..
I had a blow out on #7 over a year ago, the ceramic on the plug as well as the coil pack exploded and fell into the cylinder scoring it, hence the .020 Forged Shortblock!!

 

[E. Green Cobra]

My friend Joe owns FordSpeedRacing here in Clearwater, it's a little ways from FT Myers but he can help you..
I had a blow out on #7 over a year ago, the ceramic on the plug as well as the coil pack exploded and fell into the cylinder scoring it, hence the .020 Forged Shortblock!!

I've done business with them in past years.
I'm from Pinellas (and my folks still live there).

It'd be a PITA to get the car over there though. Well see.

 

[03Steve]

Here is what I am using to Timesert heads:

It's an Enco mill. Ideal speed for reaming and counter boring is 150 RPM, per Mike at Timesert. You must ensure that your line bore is perfectly straight. You also must ensure that you ream and counter bore to the proper depth. If you don't, see the next picture.

Here is a result of the Timesert process when performed with air tools while the head was on the car. Note the depth of the spark plug, and the protruding into the intake valve seat:

For reference, here is a unmodified spark plug bore:

 

[E. Green Cobra]

Lovely. What's the correct depth?

I'm not pulling this head. I'll pull the whole motor before I yank the head for one lousy sparkplug :nonono:.

You must ensure that your line bore is perfectly straight. You also must ensure that you ream and counter bore to the proper depth. If you don't, see the next picture.

 

[wjurls]

Here is what I am using to Timesert heads:

It's an Enco mill. Ideal speed for reaming and counter boring is 150 RPM, per Mike at Timesert. You must ensure that your line bore is perfectly straight. You also must ensure that you ream and counter bore to the proper depth. If you don't, see the next picture.

Here is a result of the Timesert process when performed with air tools while the head was on the car. Note the depth of the spark plug, and the protruding into the intake valve seat:

For reference, here is a unmodified spark plug bore:

Wild overkill if you ask me. The whole idea of using a timesert is it can be done over the fender in about an hour. I have done numerous TS bushings and never had an issue. If I ever did have one not work and the head had to then come off so be it. Nobody wants to pay the cash involved to yank the head if for $150 there is a 95% chance it can be fixed over the fender. Sure if the head is already off for whatever reason the mill would be a great way to get it done. But for a garden variety plug spit..... I'll chance an over the fender.
Just my opinion. I could be wrong.

 

[03Steve]

E. Green - I don't have a dimension for the correct depth, if that it what you are looking for. Sorry bud. The only advice I can offer is to make sure you get to the very bottom of both the reaming and counter bore steps. And make sure you have a line bore that is straight as you can make it.

Wjurls - I understand your point. However, the parts don't lie.

The pictures above show a result of the Timesert process when done in the car. I have photos of three individual Timesert examples. Two of the three were done in car. The last one was done on a bench. Which one do you think came out the best?

I have done a few of these. I have reviewed what I have seen pulled off of cars vs. what I have seen when performed on the bench. It's my conclusion that the absolute best way to Timesert the head is with a dead nuts line bore, and visual inspection of each step to verify depth.

I know it sucks ass removing a head off a modular. I suppose the end user just has to evaluate cost/benefit of the repair quality vs. time+money.

 

[wjurls]

My guess would be that most of the failed examples were due to impatience and/or failure to follow the instructions properly. There is a definitive difference in the sound and RPM of the tools when both the counter bore and reamer bottom out. When done properly the repair should work every time.

 

[03Steve]

My guess would be that most of the failed examples were due to impatience and/or failure to follow the instructions properly. There is a definitive difference in the sound and RPM of the tools when both the counter bore and reamer bottom out. When done properly the repair should work every time.

Look at the intake valve seats after the Timesert machining. That isn't a depth problem. It's a line bore accuracy one.

 

[E. Green Cobra]

Look at the intake valve seats after the Timesert machining. That isn't a depth problem. It's a line bore accuracy one.

OK, I thought the whole idea of the time sert tool kit was that they had a "collar" of some sort to center the the bit/tap in the bore?

If that's not the case what's the point of bying the $400 dollar tools?

If I'm pulling the head, I can buy the $5 insert, and take the thing to any machine shop with a mill/drill press and the correct tap, no?

I've yet to look at one up close is it possible to weld the area and retap, eliminating the need for an insert in the first place?