Just finished the Timesert about an hour ago. Not difficult at all. I fired her up and she's running like a champ.
Thanks for all the input guys.
Thanks for all the input guys.
Blew a spark plug
- Thread starter Iluvatar
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What timing for this post... mine blew a plug out last Thursday (4/29/10) as well. I have just ordered the Time-Sert kit, which seems to be the solution of choice.
Iluvatar.... did you end up pulling the valve cover to check the valve positioning or just get the piston slightly past TDC?
Iluvatar.... did you end up pulling the valve cover to check the valve positioning or just get the piston slightly past TDC?
Sorry, I just now saw your post. I did this with the valve cover still on and hand cranking past TDC.
anyone have a link to what time-sert kit to get, or where to get it? Just blew a plug myself.
You bet! Welcome to Thread Kits Co. best prices around and they ship fast! You can't even find them on Ebay as cheap as these guys. The kit you need is Time-sert 5553.
The 03' and early 04' heads were only equipped with a total of 4 aluminum threads to screw the plug into. The slightest bit of crossthreading, or if the plug backs out a little bit, is enough for the plug to shoot out in a 400+ HP engine. The newest revision heads have 9 threads and don't suffer this problem. To avoid this issue, it is a good practice to remove and/or replace you're plugs frequently and always use anti-seize before installing them. Also if while threading them in you get any resistance, STOP, and back it out and try again. It is very easy to crossthread the soft aluminum. I had posted a link some time ago to pictures showing the difference between the 2 heads.
How much is the kit? Is it hard to do, any instructions?
It's one of the more expensive Time-sert kits at around $400. It's not a job I would attempt without air tools and a good basic knowledge of engines. The last part is so you better understand the importance of various aspects of the repair such as trapping as many chips as you can and properly finding TDC etc. That said, it isn't a super difficult or time consuming job. I usually knock one cylinder out in about 20 minutes. If you f%$# it up though, the results could be catastrophic.
Isn't this Plug Blowout Crap just unbelieveable?? going on for YEARS with no end in site, NICE JOB FORD! They should have recalled ALL 4 thread 4V heads! Yeah I know preaching to the choir!!
I along with MANY others disagreee with the Anti- Seize, NGK V-Power copper core threaded into the head period!
It's ludicrous! I'll repost the pics here anyway. This first one shows the problem. No joke, this is how every 03' Cobra and most if not all 04's left the factory.
This is the newer revision head. See the difference?
Here is a cylinder repaired with a Time-sert bushing. They are only 6 threads but they are steel.
This is the newer revision head. See the difference?
Here is a cylinder repaired with a Time-sert bushing. They are only 6 threads but they are steel.
I and MANY others also prefer to use anti-seize. I don't think there is a single topic here on SVTP that everyone completely agree's on. I personally always use anti-sieze without issue. Lack of attention and maintenance is really the biggest problem. Either plugs coming loose, or corroded and becoming one with the head are the biggest factors. I haven't had a problem with anti sieze aggravating the former problem myself.
Hey WJ, I put the reamer bit in the mill last month. I was firing it up to Timesert a set of heads. Guess what? The reamer bit has runout. A lot.
The problem in my case in the pictures above was due to runout in the tooling. These results should not be typical with the Timesert kit.
The problem in my case in the pictures above was due to runout in the tooling. These results should not be typical with the Timesert kit.
That's not good! Any idea how much runout? Maybe I better chuck mine up in a drill press...
I think it is a freak case. The counterbore bit is fine. The collar is fine. I didn't measure the runout, as there is plenty visibile.
If you look at the surface of your Timesert'd heads vs. mine, you can see the chewing that the reamer did in my case. Yours look outstanding.
If you look at the surface of your Timesert'd heads vs. mine, you can see the chewing that the reamer did in my case. Yours look outstanding.
I totally understand and agree on differing opinions, SURE I'd use Anti-seize if I wasn't planning on changing the plugs every 8K miles, If I was waiting
30K+ between changes a small amount would be put on. Every Mustang shop in my neck of the woods doesn't use it..
Wow....some of you guys seem to make the timesert install a lot harder than it is. Air tools? Really? I hate using air tools because you have no "feel" of what's going on and it happens fast. The deep laceration on my left index finger proves that after I spun a bolt last week. I put my timesert in three years ago and have been shoving 16 psi at it ever since without so much as a hiccup. Used a borescope to see that the intake valves were closed and sealed the deal with my box of craftsman tools. Cleaned out the mess with a small adaptor on the end of a shop vac.
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Yes air tools. Specifically an air ratchet for the counterbore and reamer only. There is a definitive change in the sound, and ratchet speed, once these two tools bottom. Believe me there is plenty of feel. Once bottomed they will no longer cut any more material due to the buit in collars. Time-sert even recommends using an air ratchet to speed the process up. I also prefer an air ratchets stability. With a standard ratchet there can be too much side to side action as you stroke back and forth which can allow you to ream the hole in an oblong pattern. Borescope would certainly make it easier to check for closed valves but few people own them. A leakdown tester is a handy tool for this as well. Instead of a shop vac for cleanup I use a 4 foot length of 3/8 clear poly tubing with a hole about 2 inches from the end. I insert an air nozzle in the hole and aim it towards the end of the tube. This creates a strong venturi vacuum on the other end of the hose that sucks out the chips and flammable carb cleaner (used to clean up the grease) safely.
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