BMC Blown Motor Club

Nathan'sTsi

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You could do a basuc shortblock that would be good for 1000whp for 3k. You will have labor, gaskets and other expenses on top of that. I would think 5-6k for a basic deal with a clutch. If you were to add worked heads, cams springs, etc, that could double or tripple pretty quickly, depending on how extravagent you get with parts. Considering how often built motors fail, I lean more towards the keep it simple realm of the build. That will depend on your pocket book though. It might not hurt too badly to blow up a 3k shortblock, but it might hurt a whole lot to blow up a $15k motor.
 

DavidHasselhoff

WHYUMAD
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I am on the verge of purchasing a used 07-09 GT500 and plan to push around 650 rwhp, but the possibility of blowing up is now haunting me.

Could you guys share, what is the typical rebuild cost? I know it will vary quite a bit because some go all out on the rebuild while some keep it cost effective.

You're fine with 650...just monitor your AF ratio and make sure you don't go past the 6250 redline.
 

bull3441

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You're fine with 650...just monitor your AF ratio and make sure you don't go past the 6250 redline.
don't tell him that because i blew @ 645whp. AFR low 11's and never shifted above 6200. it's more how much boost on what octane, rpm, etc.
 

NightRide

Roll Racer
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I may be reading it wrong but seems the trend is too high of boost and crap gas. Doesn't inspire me to upgrade my blower with my excellent choices of 87-91 octane gas around here.
 

stkjock

Corn Powered 900 HP!
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Jan 25, 2010
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Built motor by Power by the Hour
24 psi on the corn appx 850 whp,on a DynoJet
Tire spin caused RPMs to go to about 6700-6800. Jump out and back on the go pedal = shattered OEM oil pump.

Shattered pump takes out short block.

New motor from L&M with billet oil pump by TSS.

A good short block alone is going to cost $4700-6000 just for the motor. However it certainly can get much pricier than that.

If you fphave all the work done for you to do the swap, IMO, you are looking at $9-11k without any complications in the process.
 

mustang loco

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Aug 13, 2009
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montreal,canada
#1

Mileage: 7k
Blower: 2.8H 21.5psi w/75 dry
Fuel: C-16
Where: Drag strip WOT 6000rpms in 4th gear @ 1000ft mark shooting for a 9' went 10.16@138 blown up
Replaced:FRPP Forged SB less than factory compressoin

Failure:Rod let go

On the record: My factory motor had over 200 track passes and uncoutned street races. Best pass 10.0@142

#2

Mileage: 10K
Blower: 3.6LC 23psi w/100 dry GT Cams
Fuel: C-16
Where: On the street against THEBULL top of 4th 6200rpms 145mph
Replacement: Undecided


Failure: Undetermined


Went a best of 9.99@139 boost only, never made a clean pass on the spray.

I purchased a factory short block so I could return my car to stock.

Andy,I'm curious or have a question on the FRPP,how much better is this block than the stockers?? are the rods a lot better,how much can it hold h.p wise vs stock...thx for any help
 

bull3441

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Andy,I'm curious or have a question on the FRPP,how much better is this block than the stockers?? are the rods a lot better,how much can it hold h.p wise vs stock...thx for any help
iron block Manley H beam rods w/ARP 2000 bolts, Mahle forged piston 8.1:1 compression. same rod/piston combo used in the Ford GT.
 

70SCJ

(Ret) USMC F/A-18 Driver
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Jun 8, 2007
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TVS 690 rwhp
18-19psi
11.7 A/F
Cool night, hard pull, 4500 rpm the #7 piston coughed up a piece of ring land.
I had suspected a problem for awhile due to a compression check and leak down test showing 10-12% low on 2 pistons. I knew I was on borrowed time.

Tear down showed the balancer (IW 10%) wasn't tight enough against the timing trigger wheel. The crank bolt had loosened over time. Wheel reamed it's keyway out then lodged itself tight, which probably affected the timing a great deal.
New build: MMR 1000, running E85
 

bull3441

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TVS 690 rwhp
18-19psi
11.7 A/F
Cool night, hard pull, 4500 rpm the #7 piston coughed up a piece of ring land.
I had suspected a problem for awhile due to a compression check and leak down test showing 10-12% low on 2 pistons. I knew I was on borrowed time.

Tear down showed the balancer (IW 10%) wasn't tight enough against the timing trigger wheel. The crank bolt had loosened over time. Wheel reamed it's keyway out then lodged itself tight, which probably affected the timing a great deal.
New build: MMR 1000, running E85
ARP makes a 2000 bolt for the crank. i have one included on my build. is MMR adding a 2nd keyway to your crank? when you send the IW balancer back to IW for service they will add a 2nd key for $12.
 

70SCJ

(Ret) USMC F/A-18 Driver
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ARP makes a 2000 bolt for the crank. i have one included on my build. is MMR adding a 2nd keyway to your crank? when you send the IW balancer back to IW for service they will add a 2nd key for $12.

I have the ARP2000 hardware throughout, including the crank bolt. I should have gotten the second keyway, but did not.
 

Rob_03Mach

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Apr 24, 2007
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Stafford, VA
#1

Mileage: 10k
Blower: TVS 2.59 upper; IW 10% lower 18psi
Fuel: 93 street tune 21 degrees of timing
Where: On the way to the Drag strip 3rd gear pull
Cause: Lean condition: Tune / single KB BAP
Failure: Burned piston / bent valve

Replaced: L&M built motor; Manley coated pistons & Rods; ARP 2000 throughout - Head, Rod & main
Cost: $6500, I pulled motor

#2

Mileage: 12k
Blower: TVS 2.59 upper IW 10% lower 18psi
Fuel: 93 / TORCO - Race Tune 19 degrees of timing
Where: Drag strip
Cause: Excessive Heat / intercooler reservoir tank
Failure: Blown Head Gasket

Replaced: L&M Replaced Headgasket / checked engine
Cost: $1500, I pulled motor

#3

Mileage: 12.3k
Blower: TVS 2.59 upper IW 10% lower 18psi
Fuel: 93 Street Tune - 17 degrees of timing
Where: Cruising
Cause: ???
Failure: Rod knock

Replaced: MMR 1000 Short Block; Manley coated pistons & Rods; ARP 2000 throughout - Head, Rod & main
Cost: $3600 - winter project install

For sale 07 GT500.... J/K :rockon:
 

GOTSVT?

This Is Absolution
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Who is running whose tunes? I know most are Lunds, anyone using someone else?
 

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