Boost A Pump Wiring???

[Bobco]

I am putting the Hellion turbo kit on my 2011. They sent me a Kenne Bell boost a pump. Does anyone know which color wire to cut into on the Fuel Pump Control Module in the spare tire well?
I figured someone did this already and could help me out.

Thanks,
Bobco

 

[Sc0tty2h0ttie]

It's the purple one near the center of the car while it's plugged on. Think it has a white stripe to.

 

[Bobco]

I have the Ford diagram. It shows the Violet (aka purple) coming from the processor feeding the Fuel control module. It shows the yellow with gray stripe feeding the pump. I spliced into that one and the car wouldn't run at all.

ilovestangsalot,
Is it hooked into the purple on your car?

Thanks,
Bobco

 

[1Sick2Valve]

its the purple one.

 

[Bobco]

Thanks for the help

Bobco

 

[try03venom]

Maybe do a step by step install with pics?! Free beers lol

 

[Sc0tty2h0ttie]

I'm outta town right now but I'll gladly take some pics for u guys this week if I get time.

1. Cut the Purple, red wire with a fuse goes to the one purple side coming from the front of the car.

2. The other side of the purple going to the driver goes to the other red.

3. Black ground can go to the grounding point right above the driver it with a factory wire on it.

I mounted the bap to the bracket that holds the fpdm.

Cut and soldered the boost reference wires together along with the voltage regulator wired. (not all 4 together, just 2 and 2)

Replace the blue 15 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box with a 30 amp and way u go. Get the exact number of the fuse for u this week if u need it.

Good luck guys.

 

[Chuck@Evolution]

It's the purple/green wire just before the FPDM in the trunk, drivers side.

It's fuse number 13 under the hood. If it is a early 11', it will be a 15 amp, if it is a job 2 (late build) it will be a 20 amp.

 

[Chuck@Evolution]

Here is the wiring diagram

 

[Sc0tty2h0ttie]

Why the change in fuses? They change anything in the system?

 

[Chuck@Evolution]

Not sure why the change in the fuse size. Not sure why they added extra ground points in the engine bay harnesses either.

 

[Sc0tty2h0ttie]

Have u notice any capability change in the 2? One support more hp then the other or pretty much on par with each other?

Really weird, my built date was apr 5 2010 so one of the first ones to roll off the line. Got all the issues and no warranty. Lol

 

[Chuck@Evolution]

No, havent seen any major differences between job 1 and 2 power wise.

 

[try03venom]

I would like to see a pic wired in a trunk

 

[goesquik]

Bap

Via 5.0 magazine...

 

[Chuck@Evolution]

That is one ugly install. I would shoot myself if I ever did work like that

 

[1Sick2Valve]

agreed, my install looks much better lol

 

[try03venom]

I'm outta town right now but I'll gladly take some pics for u guys this week if I get time.

1. Cut the Purple, red wire with a fuse goes to the one purple side coming from the front of the car.

2. The other side of the purple going to the driver goes to the other red.

3. Black ground can go to the grounding point right above the driver it with a factory wire on it.

I mounted the bap to the bracket that holds the fpdm.

Cut and soldered the boost reference wires together along with the voltage regulator wired. (not all 4 together, just 2 and 2)

Replace the blue 15 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box with a 30 amp and way u go. Get the exact number of the fuse for u this week if u need it.

Good luck guys.

. Where are the boost reference and voltage reg wires located?

 

[Chuck@Evolution]

Cut those off, leaving about 6 inches from BAP. Take each one, strip back insulation, twist bare metal together, solder (or crimp butt connector ) and insulate, either with heat shrink or electrical tape.

At least that is how we do it here. These steps do need to be taken into account when tuning as well, so speak with your tuner.

 

[Sc0tty2h0ttie]

The boost ref and voltage reg are the long black ones coming out of the bap. Most just cut the long wires off at a few inches and solder them together. No chance of a faulty switch running ur motor lean or someone/something turning the knob.