Damn chuck, beat me to it. Lol
Boost A Pump Wiring???
- Thread starter Bobco
- Start date
Damn chuck, beat me to it. Lol
So connect red to violet as shown and cut the black wires down to 6“ and solder together then insulate. So just run BAP with knob on max setting all the time?
Yeah by doing that it will be at 18 volts all the time which is better then the knob being turned down on accident.
let me get this straight.... solder the black wires together off the knob controller also???
Most people cut the RCA looking cable that goes to the "knob controller" down to a few inches and solders them together.
Actually I've never seen one that uses the controller to be honest with you.
Actually I've never seen one that uses the controller to be honest with you.
Well that's good now I won't have to run any wires to the engine bay or drivers seat area cause they get cut. Just hook it up and cover it back up with the truck mat and forget about it!
ok doing this now I cut the rca speaker wire and boost referance wire each have red and black do i connect black to black and red to red?
No, red and black outta one loom together and red and black outta the other. Just like they think a sensor is there but no resistance aka maxed out.
Bump on this, do you guys NOT use the boost reference then? You just run the pumps at increased voltage all the time? Or you just don't use the controller? I thought the BAP uses a hobbs switch and increases voltage under boost?
yea but running it on all the time wont burn out the pump? So are we NOT using the hobbs switch OR the knob? Just install it and forget about it?
-Steve
Anyone else running it with no knob or pressure switch?
Any idle issues? is the loud running at that voltage all the time? Anyone had a failure?
Any idle issues? is the loud running at that voltage all the time? Anyone had a failure?
CPRsm
Active Member
Nope, that's how I run them all. Bypassed hobbs and dial. Only notice a higher pitched prime before start, that's it
Is this how most shops set them up? I know I want to get a BAP, ID1000s and E85. I know absolutely nothing about BAPs lol.
It looks like there's two ways of installing the BAP in this thread. One under the center of the car, and the typical in the trunk way (easier?).
I need to install my BAP today, and would like to know if I can splice it into the wire harness that sits in my spare tire well of my 2013 Boss. The module down on the back of the spare tire well is an FPDM I assume for both pumps? Do these cars still have a rollover/inertia switch??
I need to install my BAP today, and would like to know if I can splice it into the wire harness that sits in my spare tire well of my 2013 Boss. The module down on the back of the spare tire well is an FPDM I assume for both pumps? Do these cars still have a rollover/inertia switch??
Bringing this back up. I have tried a regular 17V BAP, and now the JMS unit. Going from charging system voltage to 21V, is only giving me about 400RPM more headroom, and still showing leaning starting around 6900RPM. We can't figure out why my fuel pump isn't responding well to the voltage increases. I had both BAP units soldered correctly to the Violet/green feed line in the correctly polarity, and grounded my hobbs switch to read output voltage, which was reading correctly..... Basically the same wiring picture that is posted, just much neater. Any ideas???? Even with a larger compressor pulley, (Around 625rwhp), it still tries to start leaning out up top....
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