unsubscribing.. you keep finding "facts" to support your assumptions and if you try hard enough, you'll find some dolt who'll agree with you, that is all you've proven, and you don't seem to want to stop. enjoy..
Boost ByPass Poll-The Final Verdict
- Thread starter 04-MystiChrome
- Start date
:cryying:
I guess Jerry is to fed up to continue.
The boost dump solenoid is not a "proportional" valve, it can not modulate boost.
It does allow the PCM to prevent boost if the computer sees one or more of many fault conditions. The '03 has no detonation sensor. Detonation will not cause the PCM to prevent boost, also detonation does not cause the PCM to pull timing.
The PCM has other sensors, that will pull timing in an over temp situation, the most direct one is the second IAT sensor .
JT
No Thanks
Wow, this is turning into a "Which CAI is best?" thread. :lol:
IMO, there just doesn't seem to be enough of a gain (however you want to measure it) to justify this mod for your everyday joe. I can see maybe if you race alot and are looking for every little thing you can possibly do to help you win. For people who drive the car daily or don't race much though, the possible negative effects IMO outweigh any gain you would get (if any). Afterall, you are taking away the computer's ability to dump boost in an "abnormal" condition, and knowing my luck, it will happen to me.
Wow, this is turning into a "Which CAI is best?" thread. :lol:
IMO, there just doesn't seem to be enough of a gain (however you want to measure it) to justify this mod for your everyday joe. I can see maybe if you race alot and are looking for every little thing you can possibly do to help you win. For people who drive the car daily or don't race much though, the possible negative effects IMO outweigh any gain you would get (if any). Afterall, you are taking away the computer's ability to dump boost in an "abnormal" condition, and knowing my luck, it will happen to me.
If that's the case, it's understandable why Ford is being overlycautious by dumping boost after a few seconds of WOT. Although I could have sworn there is a knock sensor that also pulls timing. :shrug:
Update Monday 4-12-04 @ 10:00AM
For It=46
Against It=39
Confused,Undecided,Etc=42
Well...Since this is a poll with +/- statistically,I would say
it's a dead heat at this point with no solid following one
way or another-I guess someone will eventually do a dyno,
A/F,Vacumn,Back to Back 1/4's,etc. someday and test it.
For It=46
Against It=39
Confused,Undecided,Etc=42
Well...Since this is a poll with +/- statistically,I would say
it's a dead heat at this point with no solid following one
way or another-I guess someone will eventually do a dyno,
A/F,Vacumn,Back to Back 1/4's,etc. someday and test it.
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dude, has anybody switched this over at the track and got #'s eto back it up?
I wish the search worked!
:shrug:
The search does work
:shrug:
The search does work
it does, don't it?
I've switched it back and forth about 15 times at the track. I saw absolutely ZERO difference at the track. BTW I did the rpmoutlet.com bypass. I powershift the piss outta the car though. So I vote............ Waste of time, no benefit. JMO
As I've said before- if you're not encountering the conditions which cause the valve to bleed off boost then the mod won't do anything for you.
The theory behind the mod is: the factory parameters which cause boost to be partially dumped are on the conservative side and take into account stock boost levels. As you increase the boost, you more easily exceed these thresholds and the computer steps in and bleeds off some boost, thinking things are amiss when they're not.
Two ways to correct this are: increase the thresholds in the PCM (flash, chip) or disconnect/bypass the solenoid which triggers the boost dump (effectively cutting the link from the PCM to the dump solenoid). This has NO EFFECT on normal operation of the boost bypass valve itself.
Bottom line- if you're paranoid, don't do the mod and live with the drivability issues (if any). If you're modded, you will more and more likely see a difference.
The theory behind the mod is: the factory parameters which cause boost to be partially dumped are on the conservative side and take into account stock boost levels. As you increase the boost, you more easily exceed these thresholds and the computer steps in and bleeds off some boost, thinking things are amiss when they're not.
Two ways to correct this are: increase the thresholds in the PCM (flash, chip) or disconnect/bypass the solenoid which triggers the boost dump (effectively cutting the link from the PCM to the dump solenoid). This has NO EFFECT on normal operation of the boost bypass valve itself.
Bottom line- if you're paranoid, don't do the mod and live with the drivability issues (if any). If you're modded, you will more and more likely see a difference.
Silver 03 Cobra
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2002
- Messages
- 2,054
I prefer the JDM method over RPM Outlet. It's a lot easier and the parts cost less than 2 bucks.
so according to the link is this why my fuel economy has gone down? if i switch it back will i get better mileage? so just do this mod when at the track?
I did this at the track and picked up a few tenths (but I DO NOT powershift). I think JerryK is right on. If you powershift already, you'll see no difference. I had the bypass mod on the street for a week or so and my mileage went to SHIT. Less than 10mpg for sure.
My solution (for the street mostly) will be to hook up a switch spliced into the electrical connection (that you would unplug for boost bypass) to provide electrical current so it operates normally. When I line up against a car that looks like a formidable opponent (where I need every tenth), I'll throw the switch to disconnect the electrical plug to the solenoid. Based on what I've learned in this thread, it should avoid heat soak, yet still allow me to pull off fairly brisk shifts (at least until I get gutsy enough to experiment with powershifting). Then I can return power to the solenoid after the race by switching it back on so it functions normally again.
Does anybody see any problem with this approach?
I did this mod over a month ago and haven't noticed any significant positive or negative effects with regard to power or mileage.
I don't think I'll do the mod. I don't powershift and still get good ETs.
well i will take it to the track on friday and do it both ways. A coupe of tenths will be well worth it to me. GNXS...you idea sounds great, if you do it let me know how it works and which wires you did what with. Sounds like exactly what I would want.
If I remember right, the connector to the solenoid is two wires. I'll just pass them thru a switch before going to the solenoid to isolate them completely when I need to. (although one is probably a ground). Next time I go to the track I'm going to keep it on one run, then pull it off the next (like I did last weekend). Then I'll put it back on to see if I slow again.
Then I'll take JerryK's advice and learn how to powershift correctly.
I've read some scary things in this thread & unfortunatly my grasp of the english language isn't strong enough to fully explain every thing i would like to
But i have to give it a shot
our engines make a lot of power because they burn a lot of fuel.
to burn fuel you need equil portions of air, and fuel, this is why force inducted engines (be it turbo or SC) are able to create such insane amounts of power, because they have an air compressor that stuffs more airr (which alows us to stick more fuel in as well) and quite simply, the more fuel you burn, the more power you get (we all know this, watch your gas gage drop when you boost )
so, now that we know where the power comes from, why do we LOSE power ?
well its an elementry physics consept, when you shove a lot of stuff into a small space and "compress it" you create heat, when you burn fuel you create heat, this is all fine, untill you've been doing it for a while, and your temp's never really go down
this has a few effects on the engine
hot air is less dence than cold air, so all this extra heat is making it so your actualy getting less air mass into your combustion chambers (ie less power)
also, all fuel's have an inherant flash point (generaly mesured in octane) if the temp of your cylenders is at, or above this flash point, once you inject your fuel, its going to ignite right away & right away ISN'T when you want it to ignite (detonation, knock, preignition.. these are all words for this fenominon)
to prevent this your engine pulls timing, which "basicaly" makes the engine less eficient in it's strokes (less power)
I'm sure everyone understands what happens when you get detonation so i wont go into that
In the past, less complicated cars controlled detonation Just by pulling timing (again, I asume we all know what this means)
and thats an alright way to do it, but it doesnt really do enough quickly enough, letting go of some of the pressure from the compresser and pulling timing is a much more effective way to do it & i belive this is why the system is designed like it is. (makes the most sence)
btw, there IS a knock/detonation/preignition sensor on our engines, & it is very important.
so, my opinion? this is a safety device that is compensating for poor intercooling / poor compresser design
I would leave it, power shift if you want good times with no hesitation (if your not powershifting then your not going for good times anyway )
hope i didn't bore you, enjoy.
But i have to give it a shot
our engines make a lot of power because they burn a lot of fuel.
to burn fuel you need equil portions of air, and fuel, this is why force inducted engines (be it turbo or SC) are able to create such insane amounts of power, because they have an air compressor that stuffs more airr (which alows us to stick more fuel in as well) and quite simply, the more fuel you burn, the more power you get (we all know this, watch your gas gage drop when you boost
)so, now that we know where the power comes from, why do we LOSE power ?
well its an elementry physics consept, when you shove a lot of stuff into a small space and "compress it" you create heat, when you burn fuel you create heat, this is all fine, untill you've been doing it for a while, and your temp's never really go down
this has a few effects on the engine
hot air is less dence than cold air, so all this extra heat is making it so your actualy getting less air mass into your combustion chambers (ie less power)
also, all fuel's have an inherant flash point (generaly mesured in octane) if the temp of your cylenders is at, or above this flash point, once you inject your fuel, its going to ignite right away & right away ISN'T when you want it to ignite (detonation, knock, preignition.. these are all words for this fenominon)
to prevent this your engine pulls timing, which "basicaly" makes the engine less eficient in it's strokes (less power)
I'm sure everyone understands what happens when you get detonation so i wont go into that
In the past, less complicated cars controlled detonation Just by pulling timing (again, I asume we all know what this means)
and thats an alright way to do it, but it doesnt really do enough quickly enough, letting go of some of the pressure from the compresser and pulling timing is a much more effective way to do it & i belive this is why the system is designed like it is. (makes the most sence)
btw, there IS a knock/detonation/preignition sensor on our engines, & it is very important.
so, my opinion? this is a safety device that is compensating for poor intercooling / poor compresser design
I would leave it, power shift if you want good times with no hesitation (if your not powershifting then your not going for good times anyway
)hope i didn't bore you, enjoy.
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Oh, and if you did the mod and your mileage and drivability went in the toilet, the lines were not routed correctly. That means the valve stayed closed and you were probably under boost 100% of the time, even idling at a stop light.
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