Boost ByPass Poll-The Final Verdict

[caveman6666]

Originally posted by vbguy01
I did this mod over a month ago and haven't noticed any significant positive or negative effects with regard to power or mileage.

Does the boost gauge no longer drop like a stone on non-powershifts?

 

[Black2003Cobra]

Originally posted by jtfx6552
I guess Jerry is to fed up to continue.

It does allow the PCM to prevent boost if the computer sees one or more of many fault conditions. The '03 has no detonation sensor. Detonation will not cause the PCM to prevent boost, also detonation does not cause the PCM to pull timing.

The PCM has other sensors, that will pull timing in an over temp situation, the most direct one is the second IAT sensor .

JT

Can't blame him (Jerry giving up)!

JT, do you know what a typical chip program will do when deactivating the bypass? I hope that it would only deativate it under one of the so-called "abuse" conditions, and not during normal driving.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[jtfx6552]

Originally posted by Black2003Cobra
Can't blame him (Jerry giving up)!

JT, do you know what a typical chip program will do when deactivating the bypass? I hope that it would only deativate it under one of the so-called "abuse" conditions, and not during normal driving.

Thanks,
Eric

Eric, Most of the chip companies now have control of the boost bypass solenoid.

Honestly I do not know if a tune that has the bypass "turned off" will disable electric boost bypass solenoid only in the absense of fault codes, or if it turns it off completely under all conditions, the same as rerouting the vacuum hoses or unplugging the solenoid.

Ideally, I guess you'd want the computer to still be able to prevent boost in certain fault modes (overheating, etc) but not on fast shifts.

I guess a tuner would really be needed to answer what they mean when they say "boost bypass is turned off"

 

[04svtsnake]

hey guys i heard that vaulve is not good on your blower it will mess it up, heard it from one of my techs here at ford that went to an svt traning course to be svt cert.

 

[RUgoinup?]

After installing the Hilton boost overlay last night (thanks, Terry!), I got to see my boost dropping off after reaching it's peak. Today I decided to do the "RPM Outlet" free mod (used a zip tie on the short line), and the boost now stays put.

I can honestly say that the car feels stronger, which it should now that the boost is not falling off.

Thanks, RPM Outlet! :beer:

 

[2004 Culebra]

no

 

[BenD]

Plugged it back in

Make the Eaton run even hotter, especially with a 2.80 pulley.

 

[Black2003Cobra]

JT - thanks for the feedback. (Sorry I missed your reply earlier). I checked w/ Rick, and he confirmed what you suspected. He does not disable the safety features of the bypass valve. The only thing he does is to set it to close a little bit sooner than stock, (at slightly less than 0 in-Hg of vacuum). He doesn't keep it closed at all times, which of course, would be bad (for my application). Just thought I'd post this in case anyone else was curious about this. Other tuners may do something different, of course.

Eric

P.S. So I guess I would put my vote as a "no".

 

[Badgts]

For me, this is a no-brainer mod. I reviewed the RPM Outlet directions for the modification and found a more efficient way to do it, but the principal is still the same. You are only removing the computer's ability to dump boost, YOU ARE NOT DISABLING THE BYPASS VALVE! The originator of this thread is correct in his explanation of its workings. If you are getting bad gas mileage or other adverse reactions to this mod then YOU DID IT WRONG!!! (Which is understandable considering some of the directions I have seen for this mod.) I filled up today and calculated over 15mpg on the last tank (city driving). I have also had the mod in operation for 11 out of the 13 months I have owned the car with NO PROBLEMS AT ALL. Besides, it is so easy to undo (for warranty reasons) and costs so little. Even if its effects are minor it is still worth the effort IMO. For those who still consider this mod detrimental to you engine/blower consider this, the supercharger is a purely mechanical device that requires no outside electrical controls or input. In fact, name me a blower that does!!! At least I have never seen one that comes with any. Besides, if you look at the electrical device you are bypassing, you will see that it only reroutes vacuum signal to the bypass valve operator via an electrically operated valve/solenoid. It is not physically connected to the valve itself. If you are still unsure, do some testing with a vacuum guage to measure the pressure signal to the bypass valve operator both with and without the mod. All you would need is a tee for the line and a hand held vacuum guage. I am sure someone with easy shop access (or a vacuum guage) could do this and give a final verdict for those who are still undecided. Really, all you would need to do is do the mod, hook up the guage to the vacuum line to the operator and start the car. If the guage reads a vacuum, then all is O.K. Then rev the car up to make boost, if the guage then reads boost (relative to the car's boost guage) or vacuum goes away then you are good to go. Can someone do this and set the story straight?

 

[RUgoinup?]

Originally posted by Badgts
For me, this is a no-brainer mod. I reviewed the RPM Outlet directions for the modification and found a more efficient way to do it, but the principal is still the same.

Waht's your "more efficient way?" Switching two lines (RPM mod) seems pretty efficient to me.

 

[Badgts]

Originally posted by RUgoinup?
Waht's your "more efficient way?" Switching two lines (RPM mod) seems pretty efficient to me.

I plug the stock line to the valve operator and tee into a different vacuum source located much closer to the stock line. I think theirs tells you to tap into a source on the other side of the engine compartment! The longer the line, the slower the signal response, that's all...nothing you would probably notice operation-wise, just a cleaner installation IMO.

 

[RUgoinup?]

Originally posted by Badgts
I think theirs tells you to tap into a source on the other side of the engine compartment!

They don't have you do that. Here's their simple mod: http://rpmoutlet.com/boost bypassc.htm

 

[Badgts]

Okay, now I see what you are talking about. They have new directions now. You are right, that's pretty simple! The old directions were very different though (I have a printed version of them). It even listed parts neccesary for the installation (tee fittings, hose, etc.). Remember, I did this mod almost a year ago. I guess they found a better way to do it. Thanks for the link.

 

[RUgoinup?]

Originally posted by Badgts
They have new directions now.

...And I never knew about the old instructions. :shrug: Glad they found an easier way.

 

[beefcake]

on the lightnings, which are automatics, even with shift kits, guys were having boost dump off,

the first week i had the truck, i unplugged the connector, 30k miles and over 200 passes running low 12's to high 11's, never had 1 problem

i will be doing the mod

 

[beefcake]

unplugged the sensor yesterday,

same as the Lightning,

driving moderatly quick around town, the car developed the hestitation after the fipk install,

with the sensor unplugged, it is now gone

 

[DNeinstadt]

I'm still confused and I have been viewing this thread from day one.

 

[00 Aggie]

I'm still confused and I have been viewing this thread from day one.

Me too!

 

[Rudy]

I installed the boost bypass from steeda, the car seems to be running stronger, the hesitation in between shifts is now gone. I am going to keep it in there.

 

[mellow yellow]

YES DID IT