Broken halfshaft

ac427cobra

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So what shocks/struts would you recommend for a street driven, drag raced vehicle like mine with those springs, that will stop the hop?

As I previously stated, if you were on coil-overs I could give you much better advice. But.....having said that, I've heard a lot of good things from people running the QA-1 adjustables. You'll have to play with the adjustment to get the performance and ride out of it to suit your needs.

Here's a link:

QA1 99-04 Cobra Double-Adjustable Rear Shock [DMU7856P] - $249.95 : Performance Parts - Ford Mustang - Cobra - Dodge Viper - Chevy Corvette - C6 - LS1

Even when brand new, your OEM shocks were marginal at best. Ford is not going to spend any more money than absolutely necessary on any given component in your car. Now get some wear and tear on that OEM shock, overload it with a spring that has a much higher rate than your OEM spring and the shock simply cannot do it's job.

Shocks are an item that is very high on the list for total and complete elimination of wheel hop. (as I state in the FAQ previously linked) Some people are luckier than others when it comes to eliminating wheel hop and there is no perfect receipe that works for everybody. But I can tell you that if you installed our kit, you are damn close! :-D

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
 

02reaper

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As I previously stated, if you were on coil-overs I could give you much better advice. But.....having said that, I've heard a lot of good things from people running the QA-1 adjustables. You'll have to play with the adjustment to get the performance and ride out of it to suit your needs.

Here's a link:

QA1 99-04 Cobra Double-Adjustable Rear Shock [DMU7856P] - $249.95 : Performance Parts - Ford Mustang - Cobra - Dodge Viper - Chevy Corvette - C6 - LS1

Even when brand new, your OEM shocks were marginal at best. Ford is not going to spend any more money than absolutely necessary on any given component in your car. Now get some wear and tear on that OEM shock, overload it with a spring that has a much higher rate than your OEM spring and the shock simply cannot do it's job.

Shocks are an item that is very high on the list for total and complete elimination of wheel hop. (as I state in the FAQ previously linked) Some people are luckier than others when it comes to eliminating wheel hop and there is no perfect receipe that works for everybody. But I can tell you that if you installed our kit, you are damn close! :-D

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

I don't know that I understand suspension enough to have 576 adjustable options. What do you think in terms of ride and feel that I should be looking for now over what you think I am currently experiencing?
 

ac427cobra

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I don't know that I understand suspension enough to have 576 adjustable options. What do you think in terms of ride and feel that I should be looking for now over what you think I am currently experiencing?

The beauty of an adjustble shock is you can tune them to your own liking. Some peolple prefer a softer factory like ride and some prefer a more sporty high performance ride.

What I can tell you right now is the fact that your springs are overpowering your shocks which is most likely giving you a bouncy ride in the back.

As soon as you have a better matched shock and spring package you will see a better ride and most likley elimination of your persistent wheel hop issue.

Adjusting the shocks isn't rocket science. Start them out neutral (mid-point in the adjustment range) and see how the car rides. Drive it for a few days or a week to get a good feel for it in all conditions. Then maybe crank it to max dampening and rebound after that to feel the difference.

Shocks are a very important item to prevent your wheels from bouncing up and down. You stated you still had wheel hop. You're not getting any help from your shocks to prevent your wheels from going up and down. I'd like to see you totally hop free like the vast majority of our customers.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
 

02reaper

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The beauty of an adjustble shock is you can tune them to your own liking. Some peolple prefer a softer factory like ride and some prefer a more sporty high performance ride.

What I can tell you right now is the fact that your springs are overpowering your shocks which is most likely giving you a bouncy ride in the back.

As soon as you have a better matched shock and spring package you will see a better ride and most likley elimination of your persistent wheel hop issue.

Adjusting the shocks isn't rocket science. Start them out neutral (mid-point in the adjustment range) and see how the car rides. Drive it for a few days or a week to get a good feel for it in all conditions. Then maybe crank it to max dampening and rebound after that to feel the difference.

Shocks are a very important item to prevent your wheels from bouncing up and down. You stated you still had wheel hop. You're not getting any help from your shocks to prevent your wheels from going up and down. I'd like to see you totally hop free like the vast majority of our customers.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

I would also, but then when and if I do remedy the wheelhop, what is to stop the stock half shafts from being broke? This is for 630 rwhp. I also was just reading up on double adjustable shocks on a link and this is what koni had to say about "stiffer everything".

And one last general guideline to keep in mind...

10. In general, stiffening one end of the car will reduce the mechanical grip on that end. In other words, when you raise the spring rate, increase sway bar size or stiffness, stiffen the bump or rebound of a shock, install firmer bushings, etc. you will reduce the grip on that end and decrease traction. To increase grip you must lower the spring rate, increase the sway bar size of stiffness, soften the shocks, use softer bushings, etc. (Tire pressure is another contributing factor, but that's a discussion for another day.)

Here is the link I took that from KONI shock tuning guide

What are your thoughts on that?
 

ac427cobra

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I would also, but then when and if I do remedy the wheelhop, what is to stop the stock half shafts from being broke? This is for 630 rwhp. I also was just reading up on double adjustable shocks on a link and this is what koni had to say about "stiffer everything".

And one last general guideline to keep in mind...

10. In general, stiffening one end of the car will reduce the mechanical grip on that end. In other words, when you raise the spring rate, increase sway bar size or stiffness, stiffen the bump or rebound of a shock, install firmer bushings, etc. you will reduce the grip on that end and decrease traction. To increase grip you must lower the spring rate, increase the sway bar size of stiffness, soften the shocks, use softer bushings, etc. (Tire pressure is another contributing factor, but that's a discussion for another day.)

Here is the link I took that from KONI shock tuning guide

What are your thoughts on that?

We have had many customers with well North of 600 RWHP using our kit with no issues.

As far as the information in your link is concerned, this is what I have to say:

You've already stiffened the rear end of the car with the H&R race springs. I have no clue what you've done to the front. So as far as balance goes, it's not really my concern at this point. 90% of the people driving cars have no clue what a well balanced car feels like so I'm not so concerned with that actually. My concern is trying to address your wheel hop issue because you have our IRS bushing kit. I don't care if your car can crack 2:35 at Road America or not, I want your car hop free.

In order to get your car hop free you have to ditch those lousy OEM rear shocks for many reasons. # 1 is because you've changed springs and your shocks are overpowered. #2 is because you have wheel hop. #3 is because stock shocks really are no good even when they are new!

It is a VERY uncommon occurance for someone to have wheel hop after the installation of our kit. So I'm trying to figure out why. And everything points to those crappy OEM shocks you're running.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
 

69gt4speed

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Just get the tokico d specs, they are sold as all 4. Then some of those cheap airbags for a fox body stang from summit or jegs. That can preload the suspension. I have worked on mine for yrs. w the d specs you can drag or road race because they are really adjustable and work good, no bs. They can ride like a crown vic on the hiway if that is your wish. Or a bumpy road holding car that can power slide all day. Just turn a knob no bs. Way superior to a qa1 trust me, I have a set of qa1 struts just sitting on my bench. Hell the cheap stranges were better imo. Really next level is like afco dual adj. but those cost a mint. Same w santhuff's.
 

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