how the **** have I never heard of/ seen those tools for passing wire through a grommet... all the hours and swear words that would have saved me over the years
also curious what makes it impossible to run new speaker wire to the doors?
Build thread: Project "Exterminator". Twin turbo 2018 F150 RCSB 5.0 A10 4x4.
- Thread starter olympic
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how the **** have I never heard of/ seen those tools for passing wire through a grommet... all the hours and swear words that would have saved me over the years
also curious what makes it impossible to run new speaker wire to the doors?
Yes they are very handy when the need arises! I learned about them from a car audio channel I used to follow on youtube. They are not razor sharp so it helps to pre cut the grommet a little with a knife. Put some oil on the tool and it will pass right through.
The first problem with the wiring conduit between the body and the door is that it has two 90 degree angles in it. Plus the end of the conduit inside the door is sealed shut and the opening where it passes through the body is inaccessible from inside the truck. I fought with it for half an hour and gave up. The drivers side might be more accessible from under the dash but I never looked at it after giving up on the passenger side.
Small update today. Installed the boost controller. Going with a simple manual controller for now but I also have a Boost Leash for later on.
Installed under the hood along side On3's vacuum distribution block
On3's dual fuel pump assembly with 320lph pumps. The kit is designed to use the stock feed line and a -8 AN non-ptfe lined hose for return but I will be using -8 AN ptfe hose in both directions.
On3 fuel pressure regulator with liquid filled gauge.
-8 AN fuel filter. Probably not necessary but I prefer to run a filter.
On3 relay assembly for the pumps. It has 3 relays for up to 3 pumps but I will be using the third to power a transmission cooler.
Fuel filter installed on the drivers side frame rail. The metal is thick enough that I was able to just drill and tap holes to mount the filter.
Installed under the hood along side On3's vacuum distribution block
On3's dual fuel pump assembly with 320lph pumps. The kit is designed to use the stock feed line and a -8 AN non-ptfe lined hose for return but I will be using -8 AN ptfe hose in both directions.
On3 fuel pressure regulator with liquid filled gauge.
-8 AN fuel filter. Probably not necessary but I prefer to run a filter.
On3 relay assembly for the pumps. It has 3 relays for up to 3 pumps but I will be using the third to power a transmission cooler.
Fuel filter installed on the drivers side frame rail. The metal is thick enough that I was able to just drill and tap holes to mount the filter.
Fuel pressure regulator mounted on the drivers side. I have it plumbed "deadhead" style to avoid putting too much heat into the fuel from the rails. The pressure line is on the right, return in the middle. The feed line on the left goes behind the brake booster and over to a "T" at the back of the driver side fuel rail.
Drivers side fuel rail with a "T" to feed the passenger side rail.
Inside the relay box. 3 relays with fuses.
My first instinct was to mount the relays under the truck near the tank but it is not water proof so I had to mount it inside the cab. I found a perfect spot behind the drivers seat and the power leads go under the carpet and pass through a factory grommet in the floor.
I installed a small fuse holder on the passenger side to protect the 4ga power leads for the amplifier and relay module.
Installed the turbo oil drains.
Also managed to cobble together some new heater hoses with help from some Dorman 90 degree fittings.
The plan for tomorrow is to get the fuel tank back in and test the fuel system. Also finish wrapping the exhaust get it installed.
Drivers side fuel rail with a "T" to feed the passenger side rail.
Inside the relay box. 3 relays with fuses.
My first instinct was to mount the relays under the truck near the tank but it is not water proof so I had to mount it inside the cab. I found a perfect spot behind the drivers seat and the power leads go under the carpet and pass through a factory grommet in the floor.
I installed a small fuse holder on the passenger side to protect the 4ga power leads for the amplifier and relay module.
Installed the turbo oil drains.
Also managed to cobble together some new heater hoses with help from some Dorman 90 degree fittings.
The plan for tomorrow is to get the fuel tank back in and test the fuel system. Also finish wrapping the exhaust get it installed.
Great progress!
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Heat wrapped and installed the crossover pipe, front drive shaft, fuel tank and exhaust cutouts. The On3 exhaust system connected up to the stock exhaust perfectly. I just had to tweak a couple things so everything cleared. Also tested the fuel system and it works great with no leaks! Canada Post appears to have lost my trans cooler so that's going to delay things a bit. 
Fire that thing up and make a short video. That will be your Christmas present to us.
Builds going well. Hopefully the cutouts don’t trigger false knock. These things are finicky about it and the majority of folks that have the issue, all have the exhaust dumped before the axle.
You should be able to push it to 900-1k whp pretty easily. Any specific number you’re looking for?
You should be able to push it to 900-1k whp pretty easily. Any specific number you’re looking for?
I've heard of the false knock issue. Hopefully I can work around it because I want to keep the stock exhaust for normal driving. I'm aiming for a minimum of 15psi and 800whp on pump gas and boostane. I don't have access to e85.
It's looking like it will be close. Just a few small jobs to complete before it can start!
Gotcha. I run the factory catback with stainless works LTs and their off-road Y. A little raspy at WOT but it’s nearly factory silent at idle. Might change it out next year to a 3.5 or 4” with a resonator and muffler to try and keep it quiet but get rid of the rasp.
Lots of on3 single turbo builds popping up lately too. I might consider it when I swap out my 2650 if I don’t get the Odin.
Have you devised a solution to this? Glad I saw it. I'm in the beginning phases of piecing together the audio for my truck and never thought much about this being an issue. Took a look at what you're running into and haven't come up with any shining moments of clarity either. lol
I spliced into the factory door speaker wiring in the dash behind the head unit. The only way you could run new wire into the doors is to disassemble the dash enough so that you could disconnect the door harness and then pull the conduit and harness out so that the dash end is free. Then you should be able to tape the speaker wire to a metal rod and shove it through the conduit with the help of some silicone spray lube.
Yuck! I think I'll borrow your plan. ha At least for the rears I could tap into the stock wiring running along the door channel (I have a supercab) since the rear doors appear to have a similar obstacle course to overcome.
OK I had another quick look at it and it seems I had missed the obvious. If you pull the top boot off of the conduit, the harness connector is right there! The connector is "snapped" into the hole and took me a while to get it out of there. But once it's out you can disconnect the door harness, pull the lower boot off the door and then work on passing the new speaker wire through the conduit.
As for passing the speaker wire into the dash, there is a lot of stuff in the way on that side of the dash. Remove the glove box and pass a length of mechanics wire through the hole in the door jamb and into the dash, down towards the kick panel. Once you can grab the end of it, attach the speaker wire to the door jamb end and pull it through.
Good thing we're talking about it cuz I would have missed that too. ha Thanks for the info! Mine's a company vehicle so the headunit is remaining stock for appearance purposes. Speakers, tweeters, and an amp are pretty easy to hide though.
It was a busy holiday season but I'm back working on the F150!
Instrument cluster upgrade! I'm swapping out the stock cluster with a 4" display for the Lariat version with the 8" screen. It's a direct swap but it needs to be programmed with the correct serial number and odometer. Luckily someone local offers these services.
The Lariat cluster is out of a junkyard and had some pretty good scratches on the clear cover. A new cover is $200+ so I thought I'd try polishing it first.
Before:
After: ~90% improvement!
Factory cluster:
Lariat cluster:
I had the boost gauge enabled when the cluster was programmed, it will replace the trans temp gauge once I set it up properly.
Antigravity lithium battery with restart technology. 33lb lighter than stock and it will automatically turn off power if the battery drains beyond a certain point. The remotes will turn the power back on when I want to start the truck.
Instrument cluster upgrade! I'm swapping out the stock cluster with a 4" display for the Lariat version with the 8" screen. It's a direct swap but it needs to be programmed with the correct serial number and odometer. Luckily someone local offers these services.
The Lariat cluster is out of a junkyard and had some pretty good scratches on the clear cover. A new cover is $200+ so I thought I'd try polishing it first.
Before:
After: ~90% improvement!
Factory cluster:
Lariat cluster:
I had the boost gauge enabled when the cluster was programmed, it will replace the trans temp gauge once I set it up properly.
Antigravity lithium battery with restart technology. 33lb lighter than stock and it will automatically turn off power if the battery drains beyond a certain point. The remotes will turn the power back on when I want to start the truck.
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Stock battery:
Battery tray needs some trimming to clear the turbo. I also added some heat shielding.
Installed. I also covered 2 sides of the battery with heat shielding.
Summit racing driveshaft loop.
After testing various configurations I came up with this:
Installed. Bolted directly to a factory cross member.
Installed some low profile bump stops for the rear axle.
Also did some work on the driveshaft angles. I had to raise the trans 0.5" and install 4 degree shims on the axle.
I actually managed to get it down to ~2 degrees with a little more tweaking.
Battery tray needs some trimming to clear the turbo. I also added some heat shielding.
Installed. I also covered 2 sides of the battery with heat shielding.
Summit racing driveshaft loop.
After testing various configurations I came up with this:
Installed. Bolted directly to a factory cross member.
Installed some low profile bump stops for the rear axle.
Also did some work on the driveshaft angles. I had to raise the trans 0.5" and install 4 degree shims on the axle.
I actually managed to get it down to ~2 degrees with a little more tweaking.
I do like the Lariat cluster better than the stock one. Nice job with the cover polishing. It came out great, saving you $200. What's the update on the (lost) trans cooler?
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