If you were to go out and buy a R to build into a AI race car, which year R would you choose and why? I am talking about actually building a AI race car, not buying an exhisting race car and your goal is to win. Cost of the car, as well as what it will cost to make it a winner, should be a taken into consideration.
If the cost of the car is taken into consideration, I'd have to go with a 95R. They can be purchased for ~$22K. If the cost of the car is not considered, I'd go with a 93R (they are most definitely the lightest car). The weakness of the 93R was in power (but one could easily have Roush/Yates build a nice engine*), and the 93R's low volume gas tank would not be a problem in a NASA-AI sprint race.
The 00R has spoken for itself. It has proved to be reliable. But like me, it needs to go on a diet.
I know a competitive vintage Mustang costs $125K to build (~$200K if you use Cobra Automotive). We'll use an appropriate budget between these two values.Guys, this was meant to be fun and play "what if", it was not meant to be practical.
I'd order everything new. Fuel cells, shocks, and most everything needs replaced in order to assemble a dead-reliable race car. I'd strip the entire car and acid dip the unibody (don't lean on the body; it will collapse). I'd cut off every non-structural steel panel and replace it with carbon fiber. Every piece that is not completely necessary will be discarded. Hopefully, the car car would be so light as you would need to add iron plates to the floorboard to make the weight rule.
I'd shop for drivetrain parts in Charlotte. If the part is used by Nascar at Waktins Glen, it would be good-to-go on my car.
I am not sure about the diff that I'd use. How easy is it to change gears ratios on a Ford IRS while in the paddock? I know it is easy to modify a 9" diff to accept very large tires while allowing for a quick paddock gear change depending on the track.
I'd want a diff cooler, a tranny cooler, three air vents to each front brake, at least one to each of the rear brakes, a Nascar cooling system for the driver, and the best cage and safety system that money can buy. Each and every part would be safety wired (for reliability).
* The engine will be built and tuned to in order to be one horsepower less than the AI rule package across most of the entire RPM band. ;-) The dyno sheet of the torque and HP numbers would look like this:
1800 RPM........................................................8500 RPM:
____________________________________________ :dw:
Yes sir! Now I have to go back to reality and try to figure out how to extend the life on my old worn-out tires through another race weekend. :thumbsup:DAMN! That WAS fun!!!
The FR500's are the newest R models.I'd just use an FR-500-S and beat all 3 R's....
I'll get back to you on the FR500S. I need to look them over and time their lap times. The Grand-Am FR500C seems to be the sweet spot. Any vintage racer will tell you that the 500C is the best "bang for the buck".
I'll see the 500S' in two days.
http://www.theMitty.com
This series — sanctioned by Grand-Am, the same people who run the Rolex 24 At Daytona — recalls days gone by of production-based door-slammers fighting it out for world domination. Each competitor must run the Ford Mustang FR500S, a factory-built racer based on the latest Mustang GT. Each car comes from the factory ready to race, down to the roll cage and safety gear.