CAI advice

LEADfoot927

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Looking for advice for a CAI. My goal is to take a few tenths off my 1/4 mile time. At the track yesterday my best run was 12.32@ 120mph, with a 1.9 60'/ 70-75 degrees outside temp, 500 ft elevation. I am itching for 11.99. My current setup:

VMP pulley & tune
AFCO heat exhanger
Rouch Extreme exhaust
325/40-18 M&H drag radials

537 whp

My questions are what are some good CAI setups that wont break my wallet, what kind of power increase should I expect with a new CAI, would it be enough to hit my magic number 11.99, and being I am tuned already, is it necessary to get my tune adjusted? Thanks.

Also, even with drag radials traction was still a big issue. I was launching around 2,000 rpm which seemed to be the sweet spot for good 60' times, any higher was a spin fest. Granny shifted 1-2 so I didn't grind, and surprisingly it grinded hard quick shifting 2-3 on one of the passes, a first for me grinding into 3rd. Any feedback on that is appreciated.
 
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Harry08

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Talk to VMP about the CAI since you already have their pulley and tune.

Search MGW shifter threads on this site for great real world info concerning the grind issues and proven fixes with the MGW shifter.
 

Black Cobra '99

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+1 on MGW

If you don't have anything done to the suspension its a good idea to invest in control arms, they'll help significantly with traction.
More power now will only increase your traction issues, your money will be better spent on suspension IMO.
 

Mainn

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What year is your car?

To answer your questions - the JLT 123mm is a very good choice of CAI. However, don't expect TOO much power gain (think <15-20rwhp, if you're lucky), and a CAI alone almost definitely won't get you to your goal of 11's. Yes, it would be necessary to get the tune adjusted.

The main reason one would purchase an intake is for the extra MAF range; so that you don't run lean and do any damage. This is why the year of your car matters.

Seeing as you already have our tune and pulley...give us a call and we'll run you through what you need. :)
 

2011 gtcs

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Do a VMP twin 67mm T/B, you gain more power off a big T/B than A CAI, if you can afford it do both
 

LEADfoot927

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Thanks for the responses. Its a 2011 SVTPP. Can someone explain how better control arms will assist with traction? This is my first SRA car am I am curious of the physics that play along in terms of traction. Thanks.
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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Not to take a sale away, and not sound cynical, but you need to get to a better prepped track, or practice a little more. You can't be missing and grinding gears on your way to an 11s slip. With your set up, as it is now, its already an 11s car. If you are grinding 3rd that's driver error.

The control arms are built stronger, and come with a stiffer bushing. Both factors help plant the power, without wheel hop. If your car is lowered, you should also consider some LCA relocation brackets.
 
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ram150

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Not to take a sale away, and not sound cynical, but you need to get to a better prepped track, or practice a little more. You can't be missing and grinding gears on your way to an 11s slip. With your set up, as it is now, its already an 11s car. If you are grinding 3rd that's driver error.

The control arms are built stronger, and come with a stiffer bushing. Both factors help plant the power, without wheel hop. If your car is lowered, you should also consider some LCA relocation brackets.

+1 this. 100%
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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Another tip would be: are you heating your tires up enough and adjusting the air pressure correctly? Having a spotter during the burnout is very helpful. Your MPH is an easy 11.7 with a good run.
 

antuan martin

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Looking for advice for a CAI. My goal is to take a few tenths off my 1/4 mile time. At the track yesterday my best run was 12.32@ 120mph, with a 1.9 60'/ 70-75 degrees outside temp, 500 ft elevation. I am itching for 11.99. My current setup:

VMP pulley & tune
AFCO heat exhanger
Rouch Extreme exhaust
325/40-18 M&H drag radials

537 whp

My questions are what are some good CAI setups that wont break my wallet, what kind of power increase should I expect with a new CAI, would it be enough to hit my magic number 11.99, and being I am tuned already, is it necessary to get my tune adjusted? Thanks.

Also, even with drag radials traction was still a big issue. I was launching around 2,000 rpm which seemed to be the sweet spot for good 60' times, any higher was a spin fest. Granny shifted 1-2 so I didn't grind, and surprisingly it grinded hard quick shifting 2-3 on one of the passes, a first for me grinding into 3rd. Any feedback on that is appreciated.[/QUOT. My car is 2012 pp my current setup is

Vmp pulley & tune
Afco heat
Mgw shifter
Nitto nt05 315/35/20
My best run was 11.65 @ 124.98
In florida @ 69 degrees c
So keep practicing
 

antuan martin

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Looking for advice for a CAI. My goal is to take a few tenths off my 1/4 mile time. At the track yesterday my best run was 12.32@ 120mph, with a 1.9 60'/ 70-75 degrees outside temp, 500 ft elevation. I am itching for 11.99. My current setup:

VMP pulley & tune
AFCO heat exhanger
Rouch Extreme exhaust
325/40-18 M&H drag radials

537 whp

My questions are what are some good CAI setups that wont break my wallet, what kind of power increase should I expect with a new CAI, would it be enough to hit my magic number 11.99, and being I am tuned already, is it necessary to get my tune adjusted? Thanks.

Also, even with drag radials traction was still a big issue. I was launching around 2,000 rpm which seemed to be the sweet spot for good 60' times, any higher was a spin fest. Granny shifted 1-2 so I didn't grind, and surprisingly it grinded hard quick shifting 2-3 on one of the passes, a first for me grinding into 3rd. Any feedback on that is appreciated.[/QUOT. My car is 2012 pp my current setup is

Vmp pulley & tune
Afco heat
Mgw shifter
Nitto nt05 315/35/20
My best run was 11.65 @ 124.98
In florida @ 69 degrees c
So keep practicing
 

Speedboosted

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I've never understood how people can **** up the quote feature so badly lol.

Did you go to Pacific or Bremerton? The JLT 123 would be your best bet for an intake as others have already said. As for suspension, I am a vendor for BMR and pretty local if you need any help. I also have a Barton shifter for $175, it's in perfect shape.

I didn't mean to sound like a greedy salesman, just throwing it out there. What size wheel are those drag radials on and what psi did you run in them? Simple things like that can end up being the difference that you're looking for.
 

LEADfoot927

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13599999_1324971550866375_7187869342420869586_n.jpg

Another tip would be: are you heating your tires up enough and adjusting the air pressure correctly? Having a spotter during the burnout is very helpful. Your MPH is an easy 11.7 with a good run.

I started at 25 psi and went down to 15 psi for the best runs. I'm not sure what will be the safe lowest optimum PSI i should go. My burnouts weren't as good as they had been in the past. This time my tire warning light was on due to the fact my D/Rs didn't have TPMS in them, so I was not able to completely turn off the traction control by holding down the button for 10+ seconds. Because of this when I hit red line on my burnouts it shot my power back down to near idle, so it was maybe a 5 second burnout. I could use some practice next time by not red lining on burn outs.

I attached my time slips of my best two runs. I appreciate the feedback so far.
 
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TVS VERT

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no beating the Ford Racing 123mm Setup or a 123mm Whipple intake setup, all setups are repeatable and have actual flow charts provided......JLT products do work but aren't as repeatable as the 2 products mentioned before.

With that said I use a 148mm Big Air and my setup and it works flawlessly
 

SCGallo2

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^^^ Here is an image of the CAI that TVS VERT is referring to. I have done a lot of air temp monitoring and datalogging recently, and on my car IAT1 (intake air temp) is no more than 5 degrees above ambient.

FR_Whipple 123mm CAI.jpg
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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Can anyone verify the claim that with the TPMS light on, you cannot completely disable AdvanceTrac?
 

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