So after an extremely long time it took me to finally get my new Spec clutch, Ram flywheel, Ford TOB etc., I button everything back up only to find that I cant get it into gear. I installed a new adjustable clutch cable to no avail, I'm maxxed out on the slack and when up on a lift if I try to put the car in gear while running the car tries to go in gear and the rear wheels spin(with clutch still on the floor). Ran out of time and with the car being my DD its kinda brutal. Any help on what may be causing this? I didnt tear apart any part of the trans or casing. Thanks
Clutch Install gone BAD
- Thread starter 03 SeRpEnT
- Start date
Try pulling up on the clutch pedal, it will pop and it will readjust your clutch. Just an idea?
If you actuate the clutch fork with a prybar from underneath the car while someone is on the lift trying to shift gears, can you get it in gear? Car does not need to be running.
Like which part will adjust? the plastic quadrant under the dash? I think there's a problem with the clutch fork holding the tob too far on the pressure plate when there's not even any pressure on the cable.
I dunno I'll have to try that. I hope I didn't bend up my pressure plate somehow. I don't see any reason that would lead me to believe I did. I followed the DDD video on it verbatim.
I believe its just the quadrant adjustment..
I have a new quadrant asnpart of the kit but I didn't have time to I stall that piece/remove the seat etc. Will install the quadrant then work on the adjustment
Adjustable cables suck
+1, adj cables are crap. Get a new FRPP non adj stocker. Which quadrant did you get?
Steeda clutch kit came with Adj. cable, firewall adjuster, and quadrant.
If anyone could post up a pic of where thei shift fork sits in the inspection shield spot I would verrrrrry greatful. I'm trying to get a sense of where it so that I can see if the fork needs to come forward alot. I thought it was supposed to sit back when not engaged but I might not be getting enough pull(forward) motion to get the car in gear. But with the wheels spinning when I attempt to get it in gear doesnt make sense to me...
You will need an adjustable pivot ball too.
does the TOB ride on the pressure plate face when disengaged on our cars?
click on the thread in my sig.... hopefully it will help. Get rid of that adjustable cable for sure though
There isn't supposed to be a gap. The bearing is meant to be constant velocity bearing. IE always touching the spring on the pressure plate.
hmm, that leads me to believe in actuality I dont have a tight enough pull on the fork, when I was thinking I was needing more slack. I'll have to take a pic tomm of what I mean if it isnt already confusing enough lol
I agree with the above poster. It is meant to be spinning constantly, so there should be VERY SLIGHT engagement on the pressure plate fingers.
Again though, do that test that I said before you go killing yourself throwing parts at it left and right. It will help you isolate whether it is a TOB/fork/PP/FW install error or if there is something going on in the linkage.
I had to install washers behind my pivot ball to get the car into gear. The clutch was bottoming out before it would release all the way
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