I'm having a hard time finding that part number when you get a chance could you throw up a link. Also found some info saying the GTO reservoir is too small and needs to be changed more often.
Clutch system fluid and shift issues.
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I use the turkey baster method all the time on the combined stock brake/clutch reservoir and never had to bleed the brakes..... Its not like you are pulling fluid out of the lines, just the reservoir. Then you fill it back up and dry pump the clutch 50 or so times. Then do it all over again just like the corvettes. There is absolutely no need to do this GTO reservoir mod whatsoever. I do the "ranger method" as the corvette guys call it once I get to the track in the pits. Then run on that new dot4 fluid I pumped in and leave it until the next track day.
Again this is not necessary to "divorce" the two reservoirs.
Again this is not necessary to "divorce" the two reservoirs.
You never had to bleed the brakes because you are not flushing the entire system and replacing with new fluid (like a complete upgrade to a better fluid)…..A couple draws of the reservoir is not replacing all the fluid…to get it all you you need to bleed. The "divorce" keeps the dirty clutch fluid out of the brake system and the dirty brake fluid out of the clutch system….although not 100% necessary, it is a cheap way to isolate the clutch hydraulics so that the turkey baster method is entirely effective.
Anyone have luck finding a larger reservoir? Or should we just use the larger clutch line aswell?
Negative ghost rider..... You dont just do that ranger method once and call it done. I maybe did it 30 times at 10 suck, replace, pump clutches and so on. So after a while you cycle in that dot4 and the old stuff eventually get cycled out. It does happen, just not that quickly. But once you have performed this several times, the fluid stays cleaner and the clutch will function better to a point. But once you over spin it past its design limits, you are on your own no matter what you do.
Why would you want to spend 30+ minutes and a go through more fluid than you need to every time you want to change your clutch fluid?
Your method is not 100% effective in getting ALL the old fluid out and would be ok if done on the regular if you have already blead the system and changed the fluid the correct way….Let me explain:
Lets say you wanted to upgrade the fluid in your system to Dot 5…Sucking the stock fluid out of the reservoir, adding Dot 5 to the reservoir in its place, pumping, sucking, and repeating is in no way 100% effective in swapping the entire system over from stock fluid to Dot 5 fluid….but if you blead the entire system and swapped over to Dot 5, your way would work if done regularly as preventative maintenance, because you are replacing a majority of the old Dot 5 with new Dot 5….but why make it harder than it needs to be?
This reservoir mod takes an hour of your time…less if you retain the manual brake reservoir over swapping it with the auto. Its 100% effective and once done, you can change your clutch fluid in 5 minutes.
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Any online GM parts store…or your local GM dealer can get it.
Yup, called the dealer next to my work and they had it 2 days later.
Tried local dealers here in Canada and they have the number listed in their system but it is not available and they can't place order on it !
I will look at on-line stores.
how can brake fluid improve clutch effect at all? why is the fluid getting dirty?
its just hydraulic fluid in a sealed system the only thing it contacts are the hoses and seals. if its not leaking and u dont open the cap nothing should bve getting in there?(all i can find is clutch dust gettin in?) from a corvette site.
if you are boiling your brake fluid u got be burning that clutch down!(road race maybe) i would think is more important than changing out this expensive fluid...
sorry if im wrong someone enlighten me here.
its just hydraulic fluid in a sealed system the only thing it contacts are the hoses and seals. if its not leaking and u dont open the cap nothing should bve getting in there?(all i can find is clutch dust gettin in?) from a corvette site.
if you are boiling your brake fluid u got be burning that clutch down!(road race maybe) i would think is more important than changing out this expensive fluid...
sorry if im wrong someone enlighten me here.
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Has anyone used the upgraded SS Jpc line with the GTO Res? I want to divorce the clutch line, but wanted to do the JPC line at the same time.
Does divorcing the system change the pressure that the slave is under? I.E. The stock system (brake master) forces the fluid to the slave, where the divorced master fluid is drawn into the slave? Wondering why the JPC style line is effective in combating the mushy pedal/notchy shifts. Maybe it's just shielding the fluid more effectively from the heat?
Does divorcing the system change the pressure that the slave is under? I.E. The stock system (brake master) forces the fluid to the slave, where the divorced master fluid is drawn into the slave? Wondering why the JPC style line is effective in combating the mushy pedal/notchy shifts. Maybe it's just shielding the fluid more effectively from the heat?
Interesting. I would like to see a how-to on this swap as well.
I have all the stuff to do this project, I have just been lagging on getting it done. Once I do it, I will take pics of everything as best I can.
ok, so please don't blast me on this one.. . I am reading this post at work and maybe I missed you guys covering this. I like the idea of divorcing the reservoir. My question though, are we adding a bleeder block / something inline lower down on the assembly so we can just bleed/drain, or are we still turkey basting the reservoir for a change and leaving the fluid in the line? By divorcing them don’t you loose the ability to bleed the system with the lowest gravity point (brake caliper). Maybe I missed something but let me know what you guys are doing.
No bleeder or anything. When changing the fluid, suck out the old fluid in the reservoir, add the new, pump about 30 times, suck and repeat, until the fluid is clean.
cool. I may look into putting a bleeder down if the fitting is in an accessible location. I am doing my shifter this weekend so I will scout it out. I spent quite a bit of time in the machine shop, my old man runs a CNC lathe so I can't imagine I couldn't come up with something slick as long as the fitting is accessible from below.
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