80lb injectors. It’s recommended to do bigger pumps.
Combos and Dyno numbers - google doc spreadsheet
- Thread starter oldpaint
- Start date
2.3L Whipple or similar VMP, KB
From the FAQ -
~650HP
--Install the Wire Upgrade.
--60lb Injectors.
--Dual Ford GT Pumps.
--Single modified FPDM, dual FPDM or MDM
--Some people upgrade the stock feed line with an -8 or -10 line at this point.
The BAP is typically done at 600. Personally I prefer pumps. idk if you can find the appropriate GT pumps anymore.. ah this will work 4G7Z-9A407-CA
From the FAQ -
~650HP
--Install the Wire Upgrade.
--60lb Injectors.
--Dual Ford GT Pumps.
--Single modified FPDM, dual FPDM or MDM
--Some people upgrade the stock feed line with an -8 or -10 line at this point.
The BAP is typically done at 600. Personally I prefer pumps. idk if you can find the appropriate GT pumps anymore.. ah this will work 4G7Z-9A407-CA
(GAS)Fuel System Upgrade Options: What You Need To Know
This is a thread I did on another forum and thought about how many fuel system related questions come up here that seem to be repetative, so I thought I'd share with svtp. This thread is to give people options to fuel their HP goals. If you have a Terminator, whether supercharged or turbo’d...
www.svtperformance.com
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would be cool to get this spreadsheet updated as there are a lot of new combos
Is there a write up on how you guys get the relocate the battery and fuse box out of the engine bay? That makes the engine bay look clean.
Looks like a wire tuck, I'd love to wire tuck mine some time in the distant future.
Sent from my SM-S536DL using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Engine Bay Wire Tuck How-To
First off I have to give credit where credit is due.. Thanks to Laruei for the original thread and basic write up on how to do this. I'm going to give as detailed of a description as to how to do this, if anyone has any improvements or other tips they would like to add let me know! *Word of...
www.svtperformance.com
Yes. Need to wire tuck it. It is actually pretty simple to do to relocate the fuse box. Hardest part is finding where/how to mount it in the fender. I only had to extend very few wires. I extended the horn, head lights, turn signals, and MAF wires. You don't need to do all of these but I did so it is easier to plug them all in and can route them where I wanted.
Basic instructions are; follow all the wires from the fuse box, they run across the top of the radiator to passenger side. Unplug all the connections, label what they are. Move the fuse box into the drivers side fender, I installed rivet nuts into the frame rail and attached the stock fuse box bracket. Make sure it is far enough forward so the tire will not hit it when turning. I moved the horn to the backside of the bumper crash bar. My wires now run across the bottom of the radiator support to the passenger side and then to all the original locations. Need to move the grounds from rad support, most people just mount on the bottom side vs the top side.
I wire tucked it and left the battery in the engine bay for years, then finally moved the battery to the trunk when I shaved the engine bay with Scott Rod Panels. Just doing this really cleans it up. In the beginning, I wanted all the emissions crap still intact, so I extended a few of those wires and ran them into the wiper cowl. Plenty of room in there for them to fit. I have since deleted them though.
Yours is still one of my favorite engine bays.
Engine Bay Wire Tuck How-To
First off I have to give credit where credit is due.. Thanks to Laruei for the original thread and basic write up on how to do this. I'm going to give as detailed of a description as to how to do this, if anyone has any improvements or other tips they would like to add let me know! *Word of...www.svtperformance.com
Yes. Need to wire tuck it. It is actually pretty simple to do to relocate the fuse box. Hardest part is finding where/how to mount it in the fender. I only had to extend very few wires. I extended the horn, head lights, turn signals, and MAF wires. You don't need to do all of these but I did so it is easier to plug them all in and can route them where I wanted.
Basic instructions are; follow all the wires from the fuse box, they run across the top of the radiator to passenger side. Unplug all the connections, label what they are. Move the fuse box into the drivers side fender, I installed rivet nuts into the frame rail and attached the stock fuse box bracket. Make sure it is far enough forward so the tire will not hit it when turning. I moved the horn to the backside of the bumper crash bar. My wires now run across the bottom of the radiator support to the passenger side and then to all the original locations. Need to move the grounds from rad support, most people just mount on the bottom side vs the top side.
I wire tucked it and left the battery in the engine bay for years, then finally moved the battery to the trunk when I shaved the engine bay with Scott Rod Panels. Just doing this really cleans it up. In the beginning, I wanted all the emissions crap still intact, so I extended a few of those wires and ran them into the wiper cowl. Plenty of room in there for them to fit. I have since deleted them though.
Thank you, sir! I will save this for when the time comes.Engine Bay Wire Tuck How-To
First off I have to give credit where credit is due.. Thanks to Laruei for the original thread and basic write up on how to do this. I'm going to give as detailed of a description as to how to do this, if anyone has any improvements or other tips they would like to add let me know! *Word of...www.svtperformance.com
Yes. Need to wire tuck it. It is actually pretty simple to do to relocate the fuse box. Hardest part is finding where/how to mount it in the fender. I only had to extend very few wires. I extended the horn, head lights, turn signals, and MAF wires. You don't need to do all of these but I did so it is easier to plug them all in and can route them where I wanted.
Basic instructions are; follow all the wires from the fuse box, they run across the top of the radiator to passenger side. Unplug all the connections, label what they are. Move the fuse box into the drivers side fender, I installed rivet nuts into the frame rail and attached the stock fuse box bracket. Make sure it is far enough forward so the tire will not hit it when turning. I moved the horn to the backside of the bumper crash bar. My wires now run across the bottom of the radiator support to the passenger side and then to all the original locations. Need to move the grounds from rad support, most people just mount on the bottom side vs the top side.
I wire tucked it and left the battery in the engine bay for years, then finally moved the battery to the trunk when I shaved the engine bay with Scott Rod Panels. Just doing this really cleans it up. In the beginning, I wanted all the emissions crap still intact, so I extended a few of those wires and ran them into the wiper cowl. Plenty of room in there for them to fit. I have since deleted them though.
Thanks, that means a lot!! Still a work in progress. I need a single rad tank and to convert the PS lines to AN. I did just re-polish the stock PS line. Only seen that on 2 other cobras in my life.
I think we all can agree that your car is one of the nice ones. Well done sir. I’m always encouraged when it comes to your build because of the blower I chose (which I chose on an impulse because of the deal I got on it brand new). Just know your car is one my favorites.
It's never really done. I've got a couple ideas floating around in my head, but don't have the time to do them.
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