Comp orange terminator

[Jsantana91]

Hey guys well I’m back looking for another terminator. I sold my white 04 to purchase a home. I’m in a comfortable situation to buy again. I’ve found a 2004 competition orange cobra 2 owner car unmolested completely stock with 58k miles. Here’s the problem I believe the car wasn’t stored right the paint has very small bubbles the clear coat is starting to peel. On the side scoop and rear right quarter panel it’s most noticeable. I have the opportunity to buy the car for $22k considering it’s comp orange and completely stock what do you guys think?

Thank you


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[BlksvtCobra01]

Post pics. If the paints not bad that’s a steal for a CO car.


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[Jsantana91]

I didn’t take any pics on the scoop the clear is gone. And the quarter panel is getting there also. But there’s small bubbles on the clear through out my worry is the whole car having to be re sprayed. It’s my first time seeing this on a cobra so I’m sure it’s just the owner not storing it right


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[c6zhombre]

The entire car will need a respray. That's the reason it's "cheap". That's going to be expensive to get a quality job done.

 

[Jsantana91]

The entire car will need a respray. That's the reason it's "cheap". That's going to be expensive to get a quality job done.

Yeah that’s true a few years down the road the car will probably need a respray. I’ll probably hold off on the purchase thanks for the input


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[COOL COBRA]

Whoa! Examine it closer. If it's just in the clear coat, it could be block sanded & re spray just the clear coat. The paint might actually not be damaged.
2000 grit watersanding & re-cleared might be all it needs. And would also be an opportunity to put better than OEM clear on it.
I'd damn sure check it out before I wrote it off.

 

[Jsantana91]

Whoa! Examine it closer. If it's just in the clear coat, it could be block sanded & re spray just the clear coat. The paint might actually not be damaged.
2000 grit watersanding & re-cleared might be all it needs. And would also be an opportunity to put better than OEM clear on it.
I'd damn sure check it out before I wrote it off.

Thanks bro for the input. If he still has it I may pull the trigger. It’s hard to let a comp orange. The paint under looks good more than anything it’s the clear coat that’s starting to fail. I know it was stored outside with a cover under a garage port

 

[zredfire04]

the problem with getting it re cleared is that no shop is going to want to do the job. they will want to either prime/blend the affected areas or just repaint the whole car. call around and see how much that costs in your area. if that number plus the price of the car makes sense, why not buy it? or use it as a bargaining chip to talk down the price.

 

[Jsantana91]

the problem with getting it re cleared is that no shop is going to want to do the job. they will want to either prime/blend the affected areas or just repaint the whole car. call around and see how much that costs in your area. if that number plus the price of the car makes sense, why not buy it? or use it as a bargaining chip to talk down the price.

He’s stuck at 22k I live In the Bay Area a new paint job is thousands. I just like the idea the car is close to home


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[BlksvtCobra01]

He’s stuck at 22k I live In the Bay Area a new paint job is thousands. I just like the idea the car is close to home


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Nothin wrong with shipping. Hell the wife, I and the kids drove from OH to VA and I drove mine back it was a blast.


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[CobraBob]

I like what zredfire04 said. I would talk to a few paint/body shops in your area and see what they can/will do, and what the approximate cost would be. Assume it's just the clear coat so you'd want to completely re-clear coat the car. Add that cost to the $22K the seller is looking for and you'll know if it makes sense for you to pay $22K. You already know that any paint work over and above the clear coat re-do is too much much on the $22k buy. JMO.

 

[COOL COBRA]

I've not dealt with California inflated prices first hand but I've heard about it & seen it reflect on cars in the market. Partly because the cars are California carb compliant? The car market values there just runs higher? I watch the Terminator market closely. Comp Orange cars always perk my ears up!
A stock, never modded CO coupe under 60k miles should be a strong 26k car in my mind even at midwest prices. How many like it are left? Some might not agree with this value assumption, some that really want one would gladly pay more.
So @ 22, that leaves 4 grand for clearcoat repair.
Another idea to avoid full shop rate, lots of painters do side jobs at lesser rates than full shop prices. As big as the car scene is in Cali, a little search time could probably find a guy like this for the job.
I just keep thinking, how many like this one are left? Stock unmodded. If it was local to me I'd be losing sleep over it until it landed in my garage.
At 58k miles, the "low mile" collector value is long gone. But I can see a stock CO coupe that'd probably hold 29-30k value in the not too distant future.
Sorry for the rant, but these cars are limited on the market & don't pop up every day.

 

[Jsantana91]

I've not dealt with California inflated prices first hand but I've heard about it & seen it reflect on cars in the market. Partly because the cars are California carb compliant? The car market values there just runs higher? I watch the Terminator market closely. Comp Orange cars always perk my ears up!
A stock, never modded CO coupe under 60k miles should be a strong 26k car in my mind even at midwest prices. How many like it are left? Some might not agree with this value assumption, some that really want one would gladly pay more.
So @ 22, that leaves 4 grand for clearcoat repair.
Another idea to avoid full shop rate, lots of painters do side jobs at lesser rates than full shop prices. As big as the car scene is in Cali, a little search time could probably find a guy like this for the job.
I just keep thinking, how many like this one are left? Stock unmodded. If it was local to me I'd be losing sleep over it until it landed in my garage.
At 58k miles, the "low mile" collector value is long gone. But I can see a stock CO coupe that'd probably hold 29-30k value in the not too distant future.
Sorry for the rant, but these cars are limited on the market & don't pop up every day.

Right on bro thank you and yeah California prices are crazy. Tomorrow I’ll look around and see what a body shop would charge to re clear if possible. But I believe the car holds a strong value because its 2 owner car and completely stock


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[CobraBob]

Just a bit of advice. Never assume that a Cobra advertised as factory stock has always been factory stock. Especially if the car has had multiple owners. This one has had two owners, so that's a positive. It is not uncommon for a modded Terminator to be de-modded and then advertised as stock. This allows the seller to sells his mods and take advantage of potentially netting a premium for "stock" status. IMO it's always a good idea to investigate as much as you can. Finding out if the seller is a member on a Mustang forum would allow you to check the car's history. This advice is only really important if you're paying a premium for "stock" and/or you absolutely want a stock Cobra.

 

[zredfire04]

if you're at all competent with a red scuff pad and either a paint gun or rattle can, you can do the clear yourself. you can get PPG clear in rattle cans at PPG stores, for instance.

the beauty of clear coat is that you can do a less than perfect job, but if you get it thick enough you can fix it with some work.

i'm going to paint a project truck (67 f100) and if it turns out well, i'm going to repaint my cobra. i mean, it's not rocket science. there's certainly a skill set involved, but i'm not trying to turn out Riddler rides. the real challenge is the body work that gets done before the actual paint. if the body is straight, scuff & shoot IMO.

a bit of a qualifier: i'm a DIY sorta guy. i often end up spending as much (or more) to do new things myself vs paying someone, but i come away with a new skill.

 

[Jsantana91]

Just a bit of advice. Never assume that a Cobra advertised as factory stock has always been factory stock. Especially if the car has had multiple owners. This one has had two owners, so that's a positive. It is not uncommon for a modded Terminator to be de-modded and then advertised as stock. This allows the seller to sells his mods and take advantage of potentially netting a premium for "stock" status. IMO it's always a good idea to investigate as much as you can. Finding out if the seller is a member on a Mustang forum would allow you to check the car's history. This advice is only really important if you're paying a premium for "stock" and/or you absolutely want a stock Cobra.

I feel confident the car has been stock same owner since 06 he’s an older gentleman. First owner was some business guy. He’s not on any forums


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[Jsantana91]

if you're at all competent with a red scuff pad and either a paint gun or rattle can, you can do the clear yourself. you can get PPG clear in rattle cans at PPG stores, for instance.

the beauty of clear coat is that you can do a less than perfect job, but if you get it thick enough you can fix it with some work.

i'm going to paint a project truck (67 f100) and if it turns out well, i'm going to repaint my cobra. i mean, it's not rocket science. there's certainly a skill set involved, but i'm not trying to turn out Riddler rides. the real challenge is the body work that gets done before the actual paint. if the body is straight, scuff & shoot IMO.

a bit of a qualifier: i'm a DIY sorta guy. i often end up spending as much (or more) to do new things myself vs paying someone, but i come away with a new skill.

I’ve painted with rattle cans a few cars so will see I offered him $21k I’m sticking to it. Else I’ll stay patient and wait for another one to come by.


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[P49Y-CY]

I feel confident the car has been stock same owner since 06 he’s an older gentleman. First owner was some business guy. He’s not on any forums

We keep a spreadsheet of the comp orange cobras, so if you know the svt build number and/or the last 6 of the vin, it's possible we have some history on it.

 

[Jsantana91]

We keep a spreadsheet of the comp orange cobras, so if you know the svt build number and/or the last 6 of the vin, it's possible we have some history on it.

Thanks the last 6 of the vin are 232560


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[P49Y-CY]

sorry, didn't have any history on that one.

best of luck with your purchase tho! best color for a musclecar