Cooling recommendations?

[sleepless]

I'm an avid and experienced track junkie. I recently purchased a 2003 Cobra, bone stock and want to take it to the track. I run cars pretty hard at the track so I want to make sure I've done whatever mods are recommended for keeping the car happy (usually meaning "cool").

For now, the only power upgrades are Steeda CAI and Steeda Catback. Other mods going on the car before hitting the track:

- brake ducts
- diff cooler
- Torsen T2R
- SRF brake fluid
- braided brake lines
- PF race pads
- Steeda full length subrace connectors
- Steeda 3 point strut tower brace
- Steeda IRS subframe bracket
- Steeda springs
- Steeda camber/caster plates
- Steeda bumpsteer kit (front and rear)
- Canton oil pan and windage tray
- Hood vents mod
- Nitto NT01 275/17 tires on stock wheels

I typically run 30 min sessions, sometimes 45 min. I drive mainly at Seattle and Portland tracks, so summer temps in the 80's and 90's.

Do I need anything else with this setup? Is a H/E a must have?

How about if I want to run a 2.83 pulley?

I see people upgrading the H/E, radiator and the reserve tanks for both. At what point are these necessary?

Thanks in advance,
Pete

 

[racebronco2]

Do a search for coolong mods, there are many threads on this subject. If you need additional help or for us to clarify anything we will.

 

[sleepless]

I've been searching and reading for that last month Surely you don't think I came up with the above list on my own :shrug:

A lot of people have a lot more performance mods than I'm planning so am wondering at what point the H/E and radiator are necessary.

 

[racebronco2]

The first cooling mod i did was the head cooling mod. In under 70 degree i had no problem with limp mode. I did go into limp mode in over 70 degrees and thought i blew up my engine the first time( i did run with the heater on to help with the coolig and it helped). I did the radiator and h/e, this did extend the amount of time in warmer weather but it still would go into limp mode. I did the remote thermostat and water inlet and still had cooling issues in 100 degree weather. I would limit myself to about 10 minutes on the track or i would just slow down to get the temp down. I was running the 3.10 pulley most of the time.
I am running a 2.90 and have all the cooling mods and i usually push it harder then most people. If you do a search you will find that i did the vent/hood mod and i run 20 degrees cooler then most of the cobra's. This mod is the only one that actually lowered the engine temps while on the track. From octomber to now the hottest my car has ran at the track is 205 but usually in runs 195 degrees. hope this helps you out.

 

[sleepless]

Yep, I ran across your thread on the hood mod; it's on my list

Based on your experience, I think I'll stay with the stock pulley; I might need the radiator and H/E just to run hard for 30min.

Thanks, very helpful. Sometimes with searching you get bits and pieces of info so a summary can really help tie it all together.

Pete

 

[sleepless]

duplicate

 

[ShelbyGuy]

Short shifting goes a long way towards keeping the car out of limp home mode. Rev low, live long.


I'd do the radiator and stuff before springs and a strut tower brace, but thats me. I didnt do springs or a strut tower brace (nor do I intend to)

 

[ac427cobra]

Pete:

I've rated your items by priority IMHO 1=not so important 10=very important

10- brake ducts
9- diff cooler
8- Torsen T2R
10- SRF brake fluid (Do you know how much this stuff is?!? Much cheaper stuff is available!)
10- braided brake lines (front) 5-braided brake lines (rear)
9- PF race pads
8- Steeda full length subrace connectors (did you mean sub-frame?)
1- Steeda 3 point strut tower brace (unless you're running coil-overs)
2- Steeda IRS subframe bracket (Is this like a Mathis brace?)
2- Steeda springs
7- Steeda camber/caster plates
7- Steeda bumpsteer kit (front and rear)
2- Canton oil pan and windage tray
3- Hood vents mod
9- Nitto NT01 275/17 tires on stock wheels

Do I need anything else with this setup?

YES!! Street cage at minimum!
Five or Six point harness
Snell 2000 (min) helmet
Jacking rails (this makes track work a breeze)


How about if I want to run a 2.83 pulley?

Screw that pulley. That's only going to make your motor run even hotter! I think it's going to run plenty hot!


FWIW

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[TroyV]

I must have a freak for a car. I'm running a 2.76 upper, none of the cooling mods, on R compounds, driving at 7/10 with the heat on at all times, in mid summer 90+ weather and have never seen limp mode. I know that is odd, because I was on track with a buddy of mine with another 03 with exactly the same mods, with the only difference being that he was on street rubber, and I was passing three times a session, and he saw limp mode regularly that weekend.. Weird.

 

[Venomous01]

Pete:

I've rated your items by priority IMHO 1=not so important 10=very important

10- brake ducts
9- diff cooler
8- Torsen T2R
10- SRF brake fluid (Do you know how much this stuff is?!? Much cheaper stuff is available!)
10- braided brake lines (front) 5-braided brake lines (rear)
9- PF race pads
8- Steeda full length subrace connectors (did you mean sub-frame?)
1- Steeda 3 point strut tower brace (unless you're running coil-overs)
2- Steeda IRS subframe bracket (Is this like a Mathis brace?)
2- Steeda springs
7- Steeda camber/caster plates
7- Steeda bumpsteer kit (front and rear)
2- Canton oil pan and windage tray
3- Hood vents mod
9- Nitto NT01 275/17 tires on stock wheels

Do I need anything else with this setup?

YES!! Street cage at minimum!
Five or Six point harness
Snell 2000 (min) helmet
Jacking rails (this makes track work a breeze)


How about if I want to run a 2.83 pulley?

Screw that pulley. That's only going to make your motor run even hotter! I think it's going to run plenty hot!


FWIW

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

Good info to know. This pretty much lays it out for people.

MM was trying to talk me into a Torsen T2R 31 spline, but I didn't think it was that important. From what you laid out it sounds like it is important and I think I might add that to my recent order (rear IRS diff cooler set).

 

[Venomous01]

Yeah... ok I have a Torsen TR2 31 spline ordered from MM as well now and everything should be here on Friday. Thanks for the info.

My wallet loves it.:lol1:

 

[sleepless]

Bruce,

Thanks for the great points rating system. I agree with all of it, except the oil pan surprised me. I had a friend with a 99 Cobra and his motor seized up at the track, apparently due to oil starvation, so the first thing I put on my list was the pan.

I have to admit, in my searching on this forum, I have not seen an oil starvation issue mentioned so I wonder what really killed my friends engine?!

Anyway, more oil and a baffle can't hurt and I already have it!

How would your rate the Fluidine (or other brand) radiator and heat exchanger?

I left the safey stuff my list since it is in a different category of discussion, but, yes, I have always prepped my cars that see OT use with some good safety mods; I even wear a HANS and Schroth Profi III-6 HANS harness I haven't figured out what seat and roll bar to put in the Cobra yet. Seem like most people do Autopower cages. Still researching seats. I'm normally a big fan of Recaro.

BTW - I've decided to leave the stock pulley alone.

 

[sleepless]

Yes, I know how much SRF costs. But in all my driving at the track, I've found it is by far the best fluid and you can leave it in the car for 2 years without a single need for bleeding. It is worth the time it saves bleeding and flushing periodically the cheaper fluids.

 

[Venom525RWHP]

My advice on cooling... 1. upgrade your rad, 2. ducting for the rad - those 'for sale' signs & ductape works great, 3. no more than 10 psi boost (on my car it is a 3.400 upper), 4. keep the rpm's under 6k.

Vacuum fill the coolant before every track day and make sure your cap is working properly...

 

[sleepless]

Can you describe what you mean by radiator ducting?

 

[Venom525RWHP]

The idea is to force as much air THROUGH the rad as possible - focus on the big gap between the HE and the rad on the bottom.
At high speed a lot of the air passing through the HE gets sucked out from the low pressure created under the car, by closing this gap the air has no where to go but into the rad.
I also sealed off the sides and the top by the hood latch.

Building a little box in front of your HE sealed to the lower opening in the bumper will also help a lot with the IT2 temps.

I used some 1/8 corrugated plastic (for sale signs), ductape and a tube of silicone - for under 20 bucks I dropped almost 20 deg's coolant temp!

 

[Venom525RWHP]

tt

 

[Dominator]

I see a lot of you guys are running much lower boost when at the track...why? As long as you keep an eye on your vitals like water and oil temp, and oil pressure, you should be fine. I'm running a Steggy ported blower, TB, and plenum along with a 2.76 upper and 4# lower. I have all the supporting mods to go with it as well, and tuned with A/F at 11.8 and only 20 degrees timing. I run really hard at the track usually for 30 minute sessions. My car has never gone into limp mode, and my vital temps are just fine. And I'm running 18 pounds of boost.

 

[ShelbyGuy]

Only time my car hits limp mode is when its 100f+ outside and I forget to turn the heat on. My car doesn't limp, it just pukes antifreeze.

I must have a freak for a car. I'm running a 2.76 upper, none of the cooling mods, on R compounds, driving at 7/10 with the heat on at all times, in mid summer 90+ weather and have never seen limp mode. I know that is odd, because I was on track with a buddy of mine with another 03 with exactly the same mods, with the only difference being that he was on street rubber, and I was passing three times a session, and he saw limp mode regularly that weekend.. Weird.

 

[ShelbyGuy]

What works in group 4 doesn't necessarily work in group 1...

I'm not sayin', I'm just sayin'. Know what I'm sayin'?

I see a lot of you guys are running much lower boost when at the track...why? As long as you keep an eye on your vitals like water and oil temp, and oil pressure, you should be fine. I'm running a Steggy ported blower, TB, and plenum along with a 2.76 upper and 4# lower. I have all the supporting mods to go with it as well, and tuned with A/F at 11.8 and only 20 degrees timing. I run really hard at the track usually for 30 minute sessions. My car has never gone into limp mode, and my vital temps are just fine. And I'm running 18 pounds of boost.