Electric AC compressor for KC

[dpancer]

Do you think there is anyway to run an additional electric ac compressor and condenser to run your Killer chiller on?

I'm looking in a KC now and I dont like the idea that 1. your cabin temps drop and 2. the need to always run your AC when driving. 3. The fact that if your AC compressor messes up you can drive due to the risk of overheating.

 

[2003cobra22]

Do you think there is anyway to run an additional electric ac compressor and condenser to run your Killer chiller on?

I'm looking in a KC now and I dont like the idea that 1. your cabin temps drop and 2. the need to always run your AC when driving. 3. The fact that if your AC compressor messes up you can drive due to the risk of overheating.

Im running the gen 3 KC. Using Industrial 12a refrigerant (its an R134a replacement) instead of R134a helps reduce cabin an IC temps 10-15 degrees. Im in AZ and today its 106 degrees outside and my AC is still blowing cold. Modern AC systems are pretty robust and designed to run continuously.

 

[65fastback2+2]

the problem is youd need 300-500 amps to run an equivalent electric ac system. ive looked into it before.

 

[dpancer]

Im running the gen 3 KC. Using Industrial 12a refrigerant (its an R134a replacement) instead of R134a helps reduce cabin an IC temps 10-15 degrees. Im in AZ and today its 106 degrees outside and my AC is still blowing cold. Modern AC systems are pretty robust and designed to run continuously.

I was also going to run the 12a for sure. what sort of AIT2's are you getting while running your fluidyne HE? Why havent you taken it out....since it will cool better with out it in the system?

So you just leave the AC on the entire time your driving? What if your beating on it a bit, not necessarily going WOT so the AC automatically shuts off. Would you leave it on or turn it off before you start driving hard on it?

 

[2003cobra22]

I was also going to run the 12a for sure. what sort of AIT2's are you getting while running your fluidyne HE? Why havent you taken it out....since it will cool better with out it in the system?

So you just leave the AC on the entire time your driving? What if your beating on it a bit, not necessarily going WOT so the AC automatically shuts off. Would you leave it on or turn it off before you start driving hard on it?

I run the bypass valve around the H/E but still keep it in there for winter time. I believe the compressor automatically shuts off at 80-85% WOT. I leave the system running all the time, as the fluid gets colder less load is placed on the AC system allowing it run more efficiently

 

[dpancer]

I run the bypass valve around the H/E but still keep it in there for winter time.

Since I live in the Caribbean I dont need to deal with winter. On that note, would it be better to completely remove my HE or just bypass it as well? I was thinking of doing something fancy with an electric bypass valve on a switch.

 

[2003cobra22]

I run the bypass valve around the H/E but still keep it in there for winter time.

Since I live in the Caribbean I dont need to deal with winter. On that note, would it be better to completely remove my HE or just bypass it as well? I was thinking of doing something fancy with an electric bypass valve on a switch.

Some guys remove the h/e all together, I like having the option there.

 

[J.Kincaid]

We can do an electric compressor, but it's only 5000 BTU. Your Cobras A/C system is about 18000 BTU. It's an extra 25 pounds and cost an extra $500.00 with condenser, lines, fittings.

Also if you live in an extreme heat zone we can hook you up with an aux condenser kit. One other thing...we are now offering electric bypass valves, so you can just flip a switch and bypass the HE on the fly. The bypass valve would be good for anyone running a KC system or someone who just ices down at the track. The bypass valve setup is 80 bucks + shipping.

Joe

 

[Tractionless1]

We can do an electric compressor, but it's only 5000 BTU. Your Cobras A/C system is about 18000 BTU. It's an extra 25 pounds and cost an extra $500.00 with condenser, lines, fittings.

Also if you live in an extreme heat zone we can hook you up with an aux condenser kit. One other thing...we are now offering electric bypass valves, so you can just flip a switch and bypass the HE on the fly. The bypass valve would be good for anyone running a KC system or someone who just ices down at the track. The bypass valve setup is 80 bucks + shipping.

Joe

Wow lots of new options Joe, keep it up!! Electronic bypass valve is trick!

 

[dpancer]

We can do an electric compressor, but it's only 5000 BTU. Your Cobras A/C system is about 18000 BTU. It's an extra 25 pounds and cost an extra $500.00 with condenser, lines, fittings.

Also if you live in an extreme heat zone we can hook you up with an aux condenser kit. One other thing...we are now offering electric bypass valves, so you can just flip a switch and bypass the HE on the fly. The bypass valve would be good for anyone running a KC system or someone who just ices down at the track. The bypass valve setup is 80 bucks + shipping.

5000BTU only? that probably wont be worth it.

How does the Aux condenser kit work and where would it be installed?

sold on the electronic bypass valve! I will be including that with my future order.