engine install - car wont start .. help!

[RoadRash]

Also, if you took off your fenders double check your CCRM(Passenger fender). Also, there are several ground straps that are attached to studs on the motor mount. Make sure they are there as well.

Fenders are on but the front bumper is off. Do you mean check the CCRM to see if it is plugged in? Will do. I checked the driver grounds and those are good. Are there any on the passenger side? I'll check that side as well but I think those are all good.

thanks for all the great suggestions .. this this has me stumped!

 

[RoadRash]

try returning the computer to stock, do not rev it if it starts, or attempt to drive it but just see if it will start and run. could be a bad tune.

ive seen this before on another vehicle

also nice build. im looking at doing a 5.0 boss block and stroke it. maybe do a twin turbo setup if not ill probably do the 3.4L whipple.

Thanks!
I did try my whipple/gt pump tune that was good before the new combo .. same result but I will try the stock tune just to see if it will run.

 

[david3707]

are you running a stock MAF?

 

[RoadRash]

David, check out my sig. I'm running a SCT BA3000 Maf. Was running an SCT BA2400 before. I've had that since the Eaton. Been Whippled for over two years

 

[redfr03svtsnake]

i KNOW the feeling........ hopefully someone can get us out of this boat we are in

 

[RoadRash]

Nice speaking to you Devin .. I hope we can solve this thing!!

 

[redfr03svtsnake]

well im still stuck, cannot figure out where this code is coming from, whats causing it

 

[brian97cobra]

A code P1000 will never not cause a vehicle to start. A code p1000 is simply that the OBD system has not passed a readiness test (for emissions reasons). That is all it means. You have another issue at hand.

 

[brian97cobra]

Check for pressure at rail again(how did u check it the first time) Also check for
Injector pulse. Lastly double and triple check all electrical connections and or chaffed/damaged wires.

 

[RoadRash]

Update: Got a noid light and checked the injector pulse. It is pulsing. Pulled all plugs, cleaned them (they were new) but had some black stuff on them and were wet with fuel. Double checked gap. Checked all cops / plugs for spark and all have strong spark. I have also tried flooring it to close the injectors. Nothing produces a different result. Checked all grounds. The ones by the headlights are connected. There are two on the driver motor mount. Double checked the crank position sensor. Connected and wires look good.

Here is a picture of one of the plugs that looked the worst.

I checked the fuel by disconnecting the hose at the fuel rail and cranking. It flows like a garden hose. I'll get a gauge for the shrader valve and check pressure.

 

[brian97cobra]

Get new plugs and check the loose nut between the drivers seat and the steering wheel

Seriously get new plugs. Cleaning a fouled plug is not the best choice.

Check your actual fuel pressure.

 

[redfr03svtsnake]

well today i found out ive got 0 compression...... builder says cylinders mightve gotten washed.....

 

[brian97cobra]

well today i found out ive got 0 compression...... builder says cylinders mightve gotten washed.....

zero on all 8??? If so something sounds fishy

 

[redfr03svtsnake]

well zero on 2, the two drivers fronts..... but he keeps saying that if the cylinders are washed, then the rings wont/cant seat- and that i have to change the oil/reprime, but i kinda feel like if i have been getting spark/fuel from the getgo and all was well with motor and assembly, that it shouldve started.....

 

[brian97cobra]

I'm wondering about proper cam align when the chains were installed. I'm thinking u have another issue

 

[redfr03svtsnake]

i am too, i feel like theres something more than "cylinder wash" here..... ill know early next week, either the motors coming out, or its something simple to fix it..... the disheartening thing is that me and Mike "roadrash" found out today our motors have 0 compression, and this has lost the appearance and seemingness of a simple fix..

 

[RoadRash]

I'm the OP. My motor has zero compression on the drivers side and 150-165 on passenger side. I should have the driver side valve cover off tonight and I'll let you guys know what I find.

 

[brian97cobra]

I'm the OP. My motor has zero compression on the drivers side and 150-165 on passenger side. I should have the driver side valve cover off tonight and I'll let you guys know what I find.

Sounds like a cam not aligned properly.

Keep us updated

 

[RoadRash]

Update .. cam bolt broke. That's why no compression on driver side. Engine builder said it rotated freely when he degreed in the cams. I'm pulling it out and taking it back to him. I'm getting some Arp cam bolts this time. It broke within only a minute of cranking.. I hope there was no interference.

 

[DevilSun]

Damn man! SOooo damn close, I can feel the pain from over here. I'm eagerly awaiting this thing starting as my project is only a month or two behind yours. Best of luck, can't wait to hear that you got it running.