Finally going to start installing "new" DC heads. Need advice

cj428mach

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My car is running 156-4301 head studs with no issues at up to 24 psi. There was a thread on modford where people were having issues with them when they'd torque down. They d actually get really loose while torquing them and people would pull the stud to find it was stretching like bubble gum. I've never had an issue but it made me think I should go with the better ones in the future.
 

IllCobra

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My car is running 156-4301 head studs with no issues at up to 24 psi. There was a thread on modford where people were having issues with them when they'd torque down. They d actually get really loose while torquing them and people would pull the stud to find it was stretching like bubble gum. I've never had an issue but it made me think I should go with the better ones in the future.

That blows big time! Spending a few hundred dollars on studs that stretched and unable to reuse. Do you remember if those were problems from cars making big power?
 

cj428mach

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That blows big time! Spending a few hundred dollars on studs that stretched and unable to reuse. Do you remember if those were problems from cars making big power?
It happened when being installed the first time and torquing them down. My heads have been installed 3 times and torqued down 3 times and are doing ok. It did make me nervous on the toruing down part. I think if they torque down fine you will be fine.
 

IllCobra

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It happened when being installed the first time and torquing them down. My heads have been installed 3 times and torqued down 3 times and are doing ok. It did make me nervous on the toruing down part. I think if they torque down fine you will be fine.

What torquing procedure did you follow? I've read of people torquing down to a lower spec and letting it sit over night and then coming back and retorquing to the correct spec..
 

NateDogg

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Looks like for ARP 156-4301 the cheapest place will be THMotorsports @ $277.18 with shipping.

The stronger ARP 256-4201 I found at Lightning Motorsports for $370 after shipping.

I took my heads to Tim at MPR, they're in Boynton Beach.

If you remember, I was the guy that was contacting you about buying your SB Cobra. In hindsight, having the valve seat drop on me and having to spend a couple grand after parts and labor right off the bat, i wish i would have just waited a bit longer and bought yours haha.
What a sorry coincidence that we both up getting screwed, though, I don't think the guy i bought mine from knew the valve seat was going to drop...
Anyway, I'm sure you're going to have to go with the stronger head studs since you're pushing much more power than i am. I thought i was set on buying the 256-4201 but i just don't see the reason to if the 156-4301 will do the job just fine. Hell, there are people running stock head bolts with aftermarket blowers. I guess i'm just sick of spending money on the car just to get it running and every dollar spent i could have used to buy parts that i could have at least felt (power) or see (rims,tires, gauges). Rant over haha
Ahhh.. Yeah man. In hindsight I wish I would have kept the blue car! The new owner already has a whipple/return set up ect ect....makes me jealous every time he updates me on the car.

But yeah man, just luck of the draw I guess when it comes to buying used cars.

Thanks for the prices, I'll be picking up the 2000s for a "just in to be safe" mindset.

Hope you're on the road soon!
 

IllCobra

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Ahhh.. Yeah man. In hindsight I wish I would have kept the blue car! The new owner already has a whipple/return set up ect ect....makes me jealous every time he updates me on the car.

But yeah man, just luck of the draw I guess when it comes to buying used cars.

Thanks for the prices, I'll be picking up the 2000s for a "just in to be safe" mindset.

Hope you're on the road soon!

I wish you the same.

Are you going with different heads or will you be taking the stock ones to a shop?

One more thing, If you would like to buy from a more reputable website, i looked up on Jegs and they do price match. That is probably what i'm going to be doing when i order my studs.
 

NateDogg

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I wish you the same.

Are you going with different heads or will you be taking the stock ones to a shop?

One more thing, If you would like to buy from a more reputable website, i looked up on Jegs and they do price match. That is probably what i'm going to be doing when i order my studs.
I need a new set. So I'm actively looking. They are kinda hard to find reasonably priced and not trashed.
 

IllCobra

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I need a new set. So I'm actively looking. They are kinda hard to find reasonably priced and not trashed.

I found my DC casting heads on CL. I found another set for a member on here that was looking for a pair a few weeks ago (not sure if he ended up picking them up), so they're out there if you keep looking. I'll keep an eye out for a set. Check CL and ebay for them too.
 

MG0h3

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I contacted the company and eventually got a reply that was difficult to read (spelling and grammar) Never heard from him after that.
 

IllCobra

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I contacted the company and eventually got a reply that was difficult to read (spelling and grammar) Never heard from him after that.

That sucks. Did you end up finding another set or are you still hunting?
 

MG0h3

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nah not really going to worry about it. They would just be back ups for me anyways.
 

IllCobra

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Started on the pulling the engine today. Didn't get the motor out, but not bad for half a day and first time doing this. Should have it out by next weekend.

How the day began:

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How the day ended:

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cj428mach

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IllCobra

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Good luck, FYI you can have the motor fully dressed for removal and reinstall. Heres a link with a pic of how my engine looked when coming out.
https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...-pulling-the-motor-out-the-top.1082614/page-2
It might make life easier to have it fully assembled for reinstallation.

I also left the hood on and just had someone hold it up out of the way.

Sweet!
Would it make a difference that i have Long Tubes? If it doesn't, I hope to reinstall like in your pic.

I'm planning on painting the valve covers, blower, doing the cooling mod, egr delete, and it looks like i'm going to have to do a little work on the rear end since I'm leaking diff fluid which i guess means rear pinion seal. Also my Mac LTs are going to need work too since they're rusting a bit. So i'll be searching for a shop that can do that.
 

MalcolmV8

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My car is running 156-4301 head studs with no issues at up to 24 psi. There was a thread on modford where people were having issues with them when they'd torque down. They d actually get really loose while torquing them and people would pull the stud to find it was stretching like bubble gum. I've never had an issue but it made me think I should go with the better ones in the future.

That sounds like defective parts. I don't know the specifics there but If the head stud stretched so much the nut was loose and they could measure it longer and was stretching like "bubble gum" lol then that's not normal by any means.

I would not be concerned with that unless you received a defective part. I pushed 27.5 PSI of boost through the regular non 2000 head studs for years and my heads came off several times. Many others too.

Also I've tested the over night thing and never really seen any difference. I torque to 85 ft/lb in three stages. It happened to be a stopping point for me one time so I left it over night. In the morning I went to re torque to 85 ft/lb and they were all still there. No additional tightening happened. That's just one test but that was my experience with it anyways.
 

cj428mach

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Ed Schraider says not to take them past 75ft/lbs or you stand a serious chance of destroying them brand new. I guess stay below that if you don't want issues. There was a thread on modular ford about them, where one member said you could even see the stretching in them. To me I wouldn't risk messing with them when for $100 more you get the better ones.
 

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