First ETs with the Roushcharger 2.3TVS + VMP tune
- Thread starter kevinp
- Start date
Was this on all season stock 235/50/18 stock tires? Or summer only? this is pretty amazing btw.
I dont get to Steele that much, I dont have any 1/4 mile tracks within 200 miles of me so its either Steele, Bowling Green, Charlotte etc. Steele was the only a/4 mile track open yesterday so I was there.. I've been to huntsville a few times for various races, but with a few decent 1/8 mile tracks within 50 miles too far to go..
I was up in the air for a while to get the manual or the auto, 99% of the 'cooll' cars I usually buy are manuals also. But after looking at the ratios, and the 6R60 being a pretty tough trans, I figured I'd try one. My biggest complaint is the shifter and no manual access to 4th, or 5th gear. 1-2-3 are selectable and lock in in whatever gear you use, 3rd gear can make it to 115mph or so and thats OK for most, but but shifter has no gates so you can row between 1-3 easily. With a better shifter you could at least autocross or do some 10-50mph mountain roads and not have to worry about the downshift lag leaving it in drive or putting it in the wrong gear.
Not to mention driving in traffic these days I find it way easier not to row through the gears stoplight to stoplight.
I was using 265/40/18 M/T drag radial on the stock wheels, its in the list of mods on the first post. It would be pretty amazing on a stock 235/50 I agree. I may try the stock tires when the local 1/8 mile tracks open just to see what happens.
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Thats just plain sick kevin.... seriously just a bolt on s/c and tune netted 10's!
Dont forget the tires
Yea, I just wanted to see how the car would run like that. Usually with a new car I would do all the suspension/bolt ons and get it dialed in N/A first but this one I didnt want to stray too far from stock on the suspension since its a daily driver.
My original plan was to do skinnies/15" DRs, LCAs, relocation brackets, driveshaft, sway bar delete, LT headers and converter, spend some time dialing it in THEN put a blower on it.
But since my goal was low 11s most likely the bolt ons would have got me there alone for about the same money or a little less. After seeing VMPs car I figured why not just try the blower first and see what happens..
Kevin that is great # for having blower and Dr's.
Yes it is, almost too easy. Now no one will care until it runs 9s :beer:
bah! I can see running a 10.80 and being ok. Once you dip into the mid-low 10's the tech guys will send you packing with the quickness. I was totally resigned to not getting a supercharger up until you posted your times. My issue now is the cash outlay for the supercharger and then another grand for a clutch.
I'm from Chicago originally and yes I wouldnt be making a lot of passes running in the 9s without a roll bar, except at Byron
Down South, unless you are running some sort of event ORSCA, NMRA, NMCA, NHRA etc you would be hard pressed to find anyone that will look at your car before you race it. If you keep it straight and parts/fluid lines dont fall off you can run 8s with no roll bar at most of them.
Just let the trans shift itself, like most late model autos there is a lag between moving the shifter and the car shifting. Hard to do it with a non gated shifter as well., especially the 1-2 shift since it revs pretty quick.
Stock 3.15s, all that is done to the car is listed in the first post.
First off-- Major congrats on your cars' set up.
This is what I was trying to let everyone know in the GT500 section.. These cars-- with the AUTO, and a roughly $6k purchase and install--- you are running ALL DAY high 10's at 130... You simply can not do that with the GT500 and even 100 EXTRA hp at the wheels. Yeah you might do it once-- with skinnies, slicks, gears, e.t.c.. but these cars --because of the AUTOMATICS in them are just simply very hard to beat in the 1/4 or 1/8th for the money you put into them.
Don't get me wrong-- I LOVE rowing the gears in a power adder car-- but man-- if you go up against a 5.0 with a whipple, Roush, procharger, KB, and it's an auto?? Unless you have 700 at the rear wheels and know how to drive well-- you will get beat most likely to the 1/8th and will have to chase the blown 5.0 down.. And with 130 mph trap speeds becoming VERY normal in these set ups--- it will be tough to catch them.
Very impressive set ups...
This is what I was trying to let everyone know in the GT500 section.. These cars-- with the AUTO, and a roughly $6k purchase and install--- you are running ALL DAY high 10's at 130... You simply can not do that with the GT500 and even 100 EXTRA hp at the wheels. Yeah you might do it once-- with skinnies, slicks, gears, e.t.c.. but these cars --because of the AUTOMATICS in them are just simply very hard to beat in the 1/4 or 1/8th for the money you put into them.
Don't get me wrong-- I LOVE rowing the gears in a power adder car-- but man-- if you go up against a 5.0 with a whipple, Roush, procharger, KB, and it's an auto?? Unless you have 700 at the rear wheels and know how to drive well-- you will get beat most likely to the 1/8th and will have to chase the blown 5.0 down.. And with 130 mph trap speeds becoming VERY normal in these set ups--- it will be tough to catch them.
Very impressive set ups...
"Stock 3.15s, all that is done to the car is listed in the first post."
Simply amazing.... 3.55's will drop the times literally 2-3 tenths with that set up with all things equal..
Simply amazing.... 3.55's will drop the times literally 2-3 tenths with that set up with all things equal..
I dont think it will make a 2-3 tenth difference, with 3.15 gears and a 4.17 1st gear in the trans there is plenty of multiplication. N/A would help some but more gear is just going to cause more traction headaches for me. If I thought for one second it would pick up 2 tenths with a gear change, I can do it my garage in a couple hours, I would
If you think about it a 4.17 1st gear and a 3.15 axle is the same overall ratio as a c4 (2.46 1st) with a 5.30. But 6R80s have 3 more gears then a C4. The 1-2 drop is pretty good sized but its only dropping to 5400 at a 7000 shift so its working as-is.
I agree 100%, I had a 2010 GT500 and its a cool car, drag car it isnt. I just wanted something that didnt attract attention and was capable of running low 11s with good tires. I can park this thing in a wal mart parking lot and no pays it any mind at all, same when driving around. That Shelby people would make u-turns in traffic and chase me down wanting to race. Not a problem really except I'd rather just be left alone
But you wont convince anyone on the Shelby boards there is anything better, same with vette boards etc. But you did get a stouter short block, better fuel system etc with the GT500 and they are nice looking cars - or you could buy a pair of base GTs for the same money, mod one and keep the other one stock :beer:
I'm from Chicago originally and yes I wouldnt be making a lot of passes running in the 9s without a roll bar, except at Byron
Down South, unless you are running some sort of event ORSCA, NMRA, NMCA, NHRA etc you would be hard pressed to find anyone that will look at your car before you race it. If you keep it straight and parts/fluid lines dont fall off you can run 8s with no roll bar at most of them.
Not at our track. They are sticklers.... 11.49, no roll bar = no run.
I raced all around the country and I'm into safety quite a bit. Unfortunately these cars are really pushing NHRA rules even fairly stock.
I think its 11.99 you need a SFI flywheel, clutch and scattershield, not sure if you can even get a scattershield for one of these. Driveshaft loop at 13.00 with street tires, then in the 10s trans shield, SFI damper etc.
But all I did was put a blower on an otherwise stock car and now it needs a roll bar, axles, SFI damper, trans shield/blanket etc. Its just a daily driver so what you going to do..
If it was a race car I'd have everything it needs to be legal, or running events with it. I have had a few 'street' cars that were 100% NHRA legal plus. Even though they were streetable, had power steering, brakes, windows, stereo, no pin on crap etc unless you were driving around with a helmet strapped in tight it would be about as safe as a big block shopping cart on the street
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