Frps
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This is good info. I had my first experence with a blown FRPS tonight on my Brothers car. I wasnt sure at first and the car would not run, looked at some PID's load was stuck at 74% FRP was like 78PSI! I suspected either the Maf or the FRPS and sure as shi* it was the FRPS. Ill be on the horn with KB tuesday...
that was a good question "will it slow down the response time of the system?"
Actually yes, the FRPS monitors the rail pressure and tells the ecm what the pressure drop across the injectors is vs. atmospheric pressure (intake pressure) and increases or decrease pump voltage via the FPDM to add more fule volume/pressure or decrease it.. Honestly it will slow the system down, secondly its on the FP side, which im not really sure is the culprit for the FPRS going bad, i would believe it to be on the "air/pressure side" of the FRPS. Has KB documented which side of the sensor is breaking? Just throwing some questions out there.
Basically I would see it as this, if you make the hole that small in which the fuel has to go into, it would take longer for the FRPS to see the actual FP changes, and response time would be delayed. Granted, you could probably work around this thru the PID table for fuel pressure but not sure how much it would need to be played with. I have some spare "broken" sensors at the shop, im going to disect one, and see actually what is going bad inside. If this little device does work indeed, congrats on the find.
Actually yes, the FRPS monitors the rail pressure and tells the ecm what the pressure drop across the injectors is vs. atmospheric pressure (intake pressure) and increases or decrease pump voltage via the FPDM to add more fule volume/pressure or decrease it.. Honestly it will slow the system down, secondly its on the FP side, which im not really sure is the culprit for the FPRS going bad, i would believe it to be on the "air/pressure side" of the FRPS. Has KB documented which side of the sensor is breaking? Just throwing some questions out there.
Basically I would see it as this, if you make the hole that small in which the fuel has to go into, it would take longer for the FRPS to see the actual FP changes, and response time would be delayed. Granted, you could probably work around this thru the PID table for fuel pressure but not sure how much it would need to be played with. I have some spare "broken" sensors at the shop, im going to disect one, and see actually what is going bad inside. If this little device does work indeed, congrats on the find.
Well,
After popping about 5 FRPSs on my NA/Nitrous motor I installed the KB restrictor and I have not had that problem again and based on my WB AF monitor I dont see any changes in the response times.
So IMHO well worth the 5 bucks!
Naz
After popping about 5 FRPSs on my NA/Nitrous motor I installed the KB restrictor and I have not had that problem again and based on my WB AF monitor I dont see any changes in the response times.
So IMHO well worth the 5 bucks!
Naz
Nazman said:
not really looking for response times thru a WB 02 setup, but actual rail pressure changes, and how quick the cpu compensates compared to a non installed disk fprs.
What does everyone mean by blowing their FRPS?
Does this mean you end up with fuel in the vacuum line?
Can you visually tell that the FRPS is broken?
The reason I ask is my Mach1 has been plagued with this error code:
P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction.
I just bought my first FRPS sensor 2 months (500 miles) ago.
Yesterday the car died and the same error code returned.
:cuss:
Anyways, I'm not sure if I have the same FRPS as the Cobras do, but chances are the part is the same. My original FRPS appeared to be okay when I pulled it out. And I did not have gas in the vacuum line. I'm just wondering if I'm having the same problem that everyone else is. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
Does this mean you end up with fuel in the vacuum line?
Can you visually tell that the FRPS is broken?
The reason I ask is my Mach1 has been plagued with this error code:
P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction.
I just bought my first FRPS sensor 2 months (500 miles) ago.
Yesterday the car died and the same error code returned.
:cuss:
Anyways, I'm not sure if I have the same FRPS as the Cobras do, but chances are the part is the same. My original FRPS appeared to be okay when I pulled it out. And I did not have gas in the vacuum line. I'm just wondering if I'm having the same problem that everyone else is. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
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dezracer
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Bumpity.
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the restrictor plate works that doug explained in the earlier part of the thread....how do you guys blow so many frps....i have yet to blow one....*knock on wood*
Nick
Nick
The KB disc seems to work for most, I started blowing FRPS's when I pulled the PPRV valve in the tank. I did this because I had the in-between-shift hesitation and nothing got rid of it (until I pulled out the PPRV). The result of this is that when you're WOT and lift, instead of the PPRV valve cutting out the excess fuel flow, the fuel pressure will spike before the FRPS can tell the FPDM to pull voltage -blowing the FRPS. I'm sure other modifications can cause the same thing. Once I put the KB disc in with a new FRPS and unplugged the battery for an hour (to reset the tables) I have not blown another FRPS, and my car is a track car so it gets beat on 80% of the time.
As far as the response time and pressure I have datalogged it, before and after and I see little difference. For $5.00 and shipping this is a very inexpensive solution. Also remember that FRPS's have a given tolerance, so try at least 2 before you try another solution, you could have a crappy one to start with!
As far as the response time and pressure I have datalogged it, before and after and I see little difference. For $5.00 and shipping this is a very inexpensive solution. Also remember that FRPS's have a given tolerance, so try at least 2 before you try another solution, you could have a crappy one to start with!
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My frps just went out and i just installed the gt pumps without the pprv. I put in anew one with KB disc and it idle great but as soon as i rev it up in idle it blew the frps. You think if i buy a new one and disconnect the battery this will solve my problem.
Alex
Alex
ricksterman said:
TTT I'm about to do the GT pump swap and I need the answers. Anyone have some good, hard datta on this issue?
I'm thinking that the overall answer is to not remove the PPRV. It sounds like the slight hesitation is a small price to pay for the $60 a pop you'll have to pay to replace the FRPS if the KB disc doesn't work.
Is there any way to modify the PPRV so that it does it's job still, but not as severely? Maybe make the hole a little bigger or something?
I'm thinking that the overall answer is to not remove the PPRV. It sounds like the slight hesitation is a small price to pay for the $60 a pop you'll have to pay to replace the FRPS if the KB disc doesn't work.
Is there any way to modify the PPRV so that it does it's job still, but not as severely? Maybe make the hole a little bigger or something?
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