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Fuel Pump stoped working--I think?, car wont start

Discussion in 'New Edge Cobras' started by FIREBALL, Mar 6, 2021.

  1. FIREBALL

    FIREBALL Active Member Established Member

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    Went for a drive yesterday, Car was running great, got home and shut it off in the driveway, a little while later I started up to pull in garage and I barely made it in with it running real rough and would hardly Idle, I shut it off and 1/2 hour later I went to start it one more time and it would turn over but not start. No engine light or codes, but now 0 fuel pressure, fuel pump fuse it ok, fuel shut off is not tripped, theft light does not flash with key on. When I turn the key on I dont hear anything from the fuel pump. So according to what ive read in other threads it is probably the Constant Control Relay Module-CCRM or the pump. So whats the consensus here and if its the pump what is the best one to replace it with?
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2021
  2. ccq8le

    ccq8le Well-Known Member Established Member Malt Liquor Mafia Party Liquor Posse

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    Ccrm is pretty easy to check if you have a volt meter. You can unplug the fuel pump wires from under the car near the passenger rear side.

    I don't remember which wire in the harness is the one, but you can research it and if you have 12 volts or more than it's fuel pump. If less than 10 volts the ccrm is going to be the culprit.

    Use the exhaust bolts for the ground for the tester. I think there is a youtube video by chris fix that goes over how to check it

    As far as fuel pumps go they seem to always be a different model number to them all the time. I am not even sure what's available now days.


    Good luck!

    Sent from my SM-G965U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
     
  3. shurur

    shurur Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Sometimes you can thump the fuel tank with a rubber mallet and get the FP running. The CCRM on our models are often blamed, but seldom the problem.

    Imo the best replacement FP is the DeatschWerks 340. I bought a whole new basket on ebay for ~$40 and replaced the cheap pump that came with it with the DW340.

    Refill the diffy while the tank is out..maybe replace the fill plug with an outie plug or hex head plug.
    Maybe paint the swaybar too!

    If you have problems with the fuel lines, they can be ripped out and replaced with nylon line, nylon fittings and a barbed compression fitting. The fitting at the tank end is 3/8"
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2021
    P49Y-CY likes this.
  4. FIREBALL

    FIREBALL Active Member Established Member

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    Some really good advice from both post above, thank you. I will definitely change out the diff plugs, should have thought of that before I installed my new diff and cover. I thumped on the tank pretty hard all around but pump didnt start. I need to know the color wire to check for voltage or is there only one wire to pump with 12volt in that case i could check all of them? Original fuel lines with 13k miles guess those should be changed--what type of nylon line? Do I need to replace the whole fuel pump assembly or just the pump?

    thanks for the replies and advice
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2021
  5. shurur

    shurur Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Don't let me get you on a tangent about the fuel lines. If they come off the filter, you are fine.
    I got sick of dealing with mine and replaced all with nylon line and fittings. My line was rusted in to the fuel pump connection as well. I just decided to eliminate everything that can corrode or rust.

    I have the oem fuel line from the filter to the tank should you need it. I got it off ebay and no longer need it. Let me know whether you need it.

    I shaped a new nylon, brass, nylon fitting and oetiker clamp line just like it to replace mine. I also made a nylon line on the other side of the filter and connected to a barbed compression fitting. I protected the line with split rubber hose sections and permatex. Overkill.

    You can just replace the pump as well. I was just worried about wear on the tank float arm resistor, so I replaced the basket as well.

    My diffy plug was all chewed up and I was barely able to get it out, so I replaced it with a 5/8 outy plug....I an still waitng on a 3/8" ball jointed impact fixture to get a better final snug on the plug with a wratchet...as the jointed one binds.

    Also look at your exhaust hangers while under there.

    You know how it goes.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2021
  6. shurur

    shurur Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Also..you can drain the tank with one of those cheap orange syphons.

    Just remove the rubber vent hose that goes to the passenger side of the tank. Stuff the syphon hose in and pump it out. Super easy.
     
  7. ccq8le

    ccq8le Well-Known Member Established Member Malt Liquor Mafia Party Liquor Posse

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    I had a ccrm go bad. I don't remember all the process but I had no fuel pressure and had like 4 volts on the lead at the fuel pump wire harness. I can't tell you for sure which lead it is, but if the ignition is on and you test them (there is like 4 or 5 wire leads) and any are less than say 10 volts I would suspect that is your issue.

    I think the issue with mine was the ccrm had gotten water inside it somehow. They are not super expensive and are an easy swap out.

    Keep working it down and you will find it. These cars are pretty old now and throwing new parts at them is never a bad idea even if it doesn't really fix the exact issue (at least you will know it's not that part, and can keep old parts for spares) Just keep working it and you will get it.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
     
  8. omj

    omj Well-Known Member Established Member

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    One thing that might need to be stated about thumping on the tank is that usually someone needs to be attempting to start the car for it to work.
     
  9. shurur

    shurur Well-Known Member Established Member

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    That might be better...but just thumping it, then starting it worked for me fir some time.
     
  10. FIREBALL

    FIREBALL Active Member Established Member

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    I turned on the key before thumping and have tried to start it several more times. The DeatschWerks pump arrived yesterday, going to replace pump no mater what. Even though the car only has 13k miles I figure that old pump has been sitting in alcohol laced gas for a long time. The Deatsch is supposed to be alcohol resistant. Not sure if I should buy a cheap ebay pump just to get new basket and other stuff that comes with it, guess I should wait to see how everything looks. I thought Deatsch was plug and play but like some of the cheap pumps(or all pumps?) there are two wires that need to be spliced in?
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2021
  11. FIREBALL

    FIREBALL Active Member Established Member

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    I got my tank down and all is unconnected except the fuel line at the tank, does that take a special coupling remover? because the one I have that is 3/8" is too thick and wont slide in all the way to release the spring? Man getting that filler pipe out of the tank was tough and the outer donut ripped off, so is the inner part laying in bottom of tank? To install Does the filler pipe need to be completely unhooked from the upper fender before installation, right now I have all the screws out that are inside the filler door, I havent removed the trunk panel. I saw your complete write up about fuel pump and tank removal but cant find it so it would be appreciated if you can post that link. thank you
     
  12. P49Y-CY

    P49Y-CY fomoco, mofo Established Member

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    on a new edge you do not disconnect or loosen any bolts on the filler neck. it sort of flexes down just far enough to drop the tank. but you must somehow remove the filler neck grommet on the tank prior to pulling it out all the way or you risk damaging the check valve.

    and yes, you need a fuel line disconnect tool to remove the line from the fuel filter, and then the line from the hat once you get it down.
     
  13. FIREBALL

    FIREBALL Active Member Established Member

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    I didnt have to worry about disconnecting the grommet (donut) cause it ripped/ separated from the inner part when slightly dropping the tank, so I was wondering if the inner part might be in the bottom of the tank. I know I needed fuel disconnect tool and I have the standard plastic set that looks like this ------
    or do I need this, OTC 7337 Ford Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set Yellow & Green OTC7337 OT7337 -------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Every write up or on Utube I found mentions you have to remove screw behind the fuel door and some say you have to remove the trunk panel to get to other screws?? well I got mine out but not sure about the filler tube when reinstalling.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2021
  14. hotcobra03

    hotcobra03 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Metal tools work better on line

    It is a pita. Sometimes you need to push line on with tool in vs pulling to get under spring.

    Adding a tiny hose clamp may help make tool a hair longer to get to spring
     
  15. hotcobra03

    hotcobra03 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    SVT Documents

    Scroll down. Service manual section

    Click on hardcopy
    Its a small version of our service manual
    Has how to remove tank
    Maybe helpfull to reinstall
    Has notes on fuel filler neck and check valve
     
  16. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Premium Member Premium Member Established Member Single Barrel Sirs

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    I fought the fuel hat connector forever on my mach - i had 2 of the metal scissor sets and 2 sets of plastic fuel line tools, would NOT come off. I bought the cheap little set of 4 or 5 anodized ones from autozone and it popped off first try

    if the check valve assembly popped off then yes it's in the bottom of the tank, you'll be able to get it out when you remove the fuel hat.
     
  17. P49Y-CY

    P49Y-CY fomoco, mofo Established Member

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    yup i have always had much better luck with those small anodized ones than the scissor type.

    op there are alot of youtube videos out there that give bad info. see the factory procedure that hotcobra posted above. you do not have to touch any bolts inside the trunk or up at fuel filler door area.
     
    me32 likes this.
  18. shurur

    shurur Well-Known Member Established Member

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    First issue:
    If you mean the fuel hose going to tank, you can jack the tank up a bit to put some slack in the fuel line and take the hose off at the filter end.

    If the filter is bent, just snap the line off..screw it.

    The connection at the tank end can be a bitch.

    I have that line should you need. They don't make them anymore.

    Next issue:
    That damn plastic part that came off the filler neck is the anti siphon/anti spill. (In case you flip the car).

    It may still be whole but probably broke off.
    You can fish it out of the tank after you get the filler neck pulled out of the tank. You just pull the tank toward the driver side. If the filler line is loose now, you need to secure it or the tank and yank on one or the other to get them free of each other. You need that tank on the ground. You need room to work.

    If the anti siphon broke off, forget about it. You don't need it. It's a cheap ass design anyway.

    #########
    I might have lead you astray by mentioning the filler neck, but I read it somewhere and found that i needed the waggle it gave me when working alone.
    My filler neck was gooped on with permatex. It leaked after having the IRS done and I took it back..apparently that was their fix. So I had a bitch of a time getting the neck out.

    Working alone sucks.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
  19. FIREBALL

    FIREBALL Active Member Established Member

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    Thanks shurur, I ended up cutting the fuel filter nipple with a bolt cutter so I could get the tank rest of way out. That fuel line at tank would not disconnect no mater what tool or how much pushing or pulling I did. I removed the fuel pump and hat and disconnected the wires from fuel pump and I brought the hat with lines attached to a local (high tech) and premium shop (and I know the owner well) he said no problem he can get it disconnected-----well he couldnt, that line is stuck on there!!!! He is going to cut it off to save the hat and male pipe, but I will need a new line. The plastic anti siphon did not break and I fished out the inner donut that had ripped off of the outer. So I need a new line and hope I can get that filler neck to go back into the new donut and tank. I have thought about removing that anti siphon valve but not sure if thats a good idea? As far as the fuel line guess I could go with steel braided line and hose clamps??
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
  20. shurur

    shurur Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Of the anti siphon tip is fine, you should definitely keep it intact.

    I can just send you the line for the price of shipping. I just need to find it in my tool storage area..which is the second BR.

    #######
    I got so pissed about those connectors that I replaced them all with nylon line and connectors.
     

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