Help a newbie... bolt-ons ruined my car!!
- Thread starter Bl00dtrail
- Start date
Ok you have the "poor man's 3 link" lol. And that is only if one of the UCAs is removed. I'd worry about fully sorting the rear suspension before you do anything else if you are going to be corner carving. You will want to add a torque arm to that setup which eliminates the upper control arms and makes it a complete 3 link or completely get rid of the stick axle and go IRS.
I shift at 7200 routinely with stock factory installed cams lol. I should probably shift earlier but its not going to hurt anything.
My God, you guys are really trying to take him down a rabbit hole, aren't you? Dude said he wants to put a kenne bell on it and change the gears potentially and somehow that turns into talking about cams (a huge investment and huge amount of work) and critiquing his suspension. He never said he wanted to competitively road race it, just that the prior owner had road raced it. There is nothing wrong with the suspension. Is it 100% ideal? No. Will it far exceed the talent threshold of the vast majority of people that hop behind the wheel? Yep. Will they be able to take it out to a track day on the weekend and have fun? Yep. I daresay whoever had this car in the past knew what they were doing because they went to the effort of putting an accusump on the car.
No offense to anyone here, but people recommending parts to throw at this car before you get a significant amount of seat time and figure out what you like/don't like and what works/doesn't work for you are leading you down the wrong path...
No offense to anyone here, but people recommending parts to throw at this car before you get a significant amount of seat time and figure out what you like/don't like and what works/doesn't work for you are leading you down the wrong path...
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Pretty accurate how I was feeling....
The suspension on my car is probably better than 99% of the SN95s on the road today.. and for a car I paid 5k for it's pretty damn nice!!
Just to update: I still want to do a Kenne Bell supercharger and possibly methanol injection.
I've removed all the bolt-ons and returned it back to stock.
I bought and installed OEM coil packs, wires and put in new plugs gapped per recommendations earlier in this thread.
I've also replaced the TPS, EGR and IAC...
changing the fuel filter today...
Still not running great... falls on its face when I try to get on it.
Thanks for the helpful posts. Keep em coming
Is the new TPS adjusted correctly?
If you mean set @ .98-1.0 then no...
I'd have to drill out the new TPS bushing and crank it down... which I don't really want to do. Not sure why I have to do that?
I read somewhere that the TPS on that model of car reads and sets the TPS at 1 volt everytime the car starts and adjusts through the computer..? Think I read that on a different forum.
i think Id verify that info, my understanding has always been that if the TPS isnt set correctly at idle you'll have issues. I dont understand why an older car would auto adjust a newer car wouldnt
I'm definitely not claiming that's gospel... but I did read it. Also why would a part that may require adjusting not be adjustable from the factory? I'm trying to learn this car..
when I messed with the TPS on my Mach1 it just involved loosening the mounting screws and it would allow you turn it/move it. It takes very little movement to adjust it
It was very easy to adjust my neighbors foxbody TPS.... but this 98 is not that way. The TPS has an actual metal bushing inside the screw holes so you cant rotate it at all... without modifications
Have you checked you tube for a how to?
I have... didnt see one for that specific model. There's other videos on there but there like you explained... just loosen and rotate for desired results.
Which won't work on this car.. without drilling into the TPS
All the computer stuff is great but the best way to find out whats going on is to read the plugs, get you a chart with pictures pull the plugs to find out what is going on. Then do a leak down test to determine the engines health, you are just throwing parts at it right now and its not getting any better but you're spending money. Instead start removing possible causes, what if you throw all this money at it and you find out the engine wasn't healthy to start with?
And how do I do a leak down test?
You need the kit to pressurize the cylinders and measure how much each cylinder is leaking, not a compression test. A compression test will only tell you cranking compression and can give good readings when there is still something wrong. See if one of your local auto parts store has a cylinder leak down kit for rent, you will also need a air compressor.
Perfect! I'll get one today after work
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