Help brake reservoir boiling over at the Track all the time

101blur

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well I know this can be a comin issue with the coyote powered mustangs but want to know if anyone has a real solution to the fix it other then granny shifting. Basically when I track my car after several hard laps It gets harder to shift and I get lock out. once my session has finished I notice I keep getting overflow around and on my reservoir. it gets on my cam cover and fender:nonono:. I have already switched to Motul 600 witch helped but gets me maybe a extra lap or two before its starts acting up again.
any help on this would be great.
thanks :rockon:
 

Tri-bar

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Need some info, do you have cooling ducts to your front brakes ? What pads are you using ? Do you have the dust shields removed from your rear brakes ? This can change the way your brakes heat up. I stopped boiling my brakes after I changed over to the 13 GT500 rear rotors. They still get hot, just without fade.
 

101blur

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Need some info, do you have cooling ducts to your front brakes ? What pads are you using ? Do you have the dust shields removed from your rear brakes ? This can change the way your brakes heat up. I stopped boiling my brakes after I changed over to the 13 GT500 rear rotors. They still get hot, just without fade.

no brake ducts yet working on that. I do still have the dust shields on both front and rear.
As for my current brake setup rear is all stock fronts I run Wilwood promatrix slotted two peace rotors and SS lines with Hawk HP plus pads
 

AZBOSS

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First things first (and FREE):
1) Remove all those dust shields.
2) Suck some fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir. As the fluid becomes heated by brake use, it will expand. When cold, I typically run about midway between the "high" and "low" marks on the side of the reservoir, or a little lower. This leaves room for expansion.
Optional) If you want, cut off a piece of gym sock or wristband and wrap it around the reservoir's cap; or use a "blue shop towel" and a zip tie. This will absorb any puking.

Next:
3) GET THOSE DUCTS INSTALLED!
4) 0.5mm titanium brake backing plates from www.hardbrakes.com Pad shape D1001, assuming you are Brembo.
 

Jabooh1

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The cooling ducts were a major help for me. You do you have a transmission cooler? The LS had a pan that simply deflects air up to the tranny fins.
 

101blur

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First things first (and FREE):
1) Remove all those dust shields.
2) Suck some fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir. As the fluid becomes heated by brake use, it will expand. When cold, I typically run about midway between the "high" and "low" marks on the side of the reservoir, or a little lower. This leaves room for expansion.
Optional) If you want, cut off a piece of gym sock or wristband and wrap it around the reservoir's cap; or use a "blue shop towel" and a zip tie. This will absorb any puking.

Next:
3) GET THOSE DUCTS INSTALLED!
4) 0.5mm titanium brake backing plates from www.hardbrakes.com Pad shape D1001, assuming you are Brembo.

The cooling ducts were a major help for me. You do you have a transmission cooler? The LS had a pan that simply deflects air up to the tranny fins.

thanks guys I will order my brake ducts next and get the dust shields off. Due the Titanium brake plates work ok for street use..?
 

Voltwings

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i have a set of Ford Racing backing plates and a set of Vorshlag front bezels for a 13-14 if you're interested? You'd just need to source your own 3" hose.

Never boiled even my standard GT 13.2" rotors with that set up and amsoil DOT4, but i'm racing a miata now, so i dont need them anymore.
 

Tri-bar

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thanks guys I will order my brake ducts next and get the dust shields off. Due the Titanium brake plates work ok for street use..?

They will work fine on the street. Air ducts will be a big help to the front. Also bleed and replace all your brake fluid, start at the farthest wheel, bleed until clear. Then move to the left rear, right front, then left front. Make sure it's all clear. That way you have none of the old stuff still sitting in the system. Do everything that AZBOSS said and you should be good.
 

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