High boost TVS guys in here please

cj428mach

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If people are concerned about their pump not working just plumb a flow switch in line. Then wire up the switch to a light or buzzer to signal that its working.
 

Soap

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I just checked my logs that I have sent to 04Sleeper. My TVS with a Killer Chiller showed this: 3rd gear pull 2,000rpm-6,500rpm. Starting IAT2 was 81 Degrees and final IAT2 was 96 degrees. So just a single gear pull increased 15 degrees.

Note: Car was at full operating temp 179 degrees. But not really heat soaked as I remember.

That is really damn good. How long were you on the gas? Like 3-4 seconds? Also how much boost are you running? Were your IAT1's constant for that pull or did they go up too?

--Joe
 

whitedevil95

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That is really damn good. How long were you on the gas? Like 3-4 seconds? Also how much boost are you running? Were your IAT1's constant for that pull or did they go up too?

--Joe
Good Question! I just went back and looked. Right before the pull showed 79 degrees at the top of 3rd 6,500rpm showed 74 degrees. So IAT 1 did drop as well during the pull.

I am just a 2.8 upper only right now on pump gas. I see about 16.8psi on average.
 

Soap

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That is great, is the JLT high boost in your sig the version that puts the filter in the fender (out of the engine bay)?

--Joe
 

whitedevil95

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That is great, is the JLT high boost in your sig the version that puts the filter in the fender (out of the engine bay)?

--Joe
Yeah i have the normal high boost intake filter in the fender. So yeah even under boost with the KC my IAT1s went down while my IAT2s went up.
 

c6zhombre

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If people are concerned about their pump not working just plumb a flow switch in line. Then wire up the switch to a light or buzzer to signal that its working.

There's already a pid to indicate pump active or not, no need to wire or plumb anything. It's called SCIPC 1:Active, 0:Inactive
 

cj428mach

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There's already a pid to indicate pump active or not, no need to wire or plumb anything. It's called SCIPC 1:Active, 0:Inactive

Will that tell you when the pump is being triggered by the ecm but not actually flowing coolant?
 

94slowbra1

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Yeah i have the normal high boost intake filter in the fender. So yeah even under boost with the KC my IAT1s went down while my IAT2s went up.
so i guess another part of the equation is what type of intake we are running? im running a jlt ram air and i have iat1's around 120 when cruising and he is seeing iat1's at 80 with similar outside air temps.
 

Soap

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so i guess another part of the equation is what type of intake we are running? im running a jlt ram air and i have iat1's around 120 when cruising and he is seeing iat1's at 80 with similar outside air temps.

Possibly. I also run a ram air style intake and I see cruising temps slightly higher than ambient, but as soon as I go WOT my IAT1's climb rapidly. I'm still trying to figure out why that is the case. Maybe more air coming through the radiator?

The crazy thing is that in speaking with Malcolm he said that in his experience it doesn't matter what IAT1's are with Justins setup, he said that IAT2's still drop when WOT.

Here is a quick log from the other night...
Capture.JPG


--Joe
 

c6zhombre

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Will that tell you when the pump is being triggered by the ecm but not actually flowing coolant?

I'm not sure how that signal works. But since I'm monitoring it and IAT2 all the time on my dashdaq, it's not a big deal either way. IAT2 would shoot past normal levels damn fast with the pump out.
 

mnetwork

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What are people here seeing in terms of cruising IAT2's in various coniditions? With 80+ degree weather I cannot keep it under 120* while cruising. Come to a stop or park the car and it climbs.
 

04sleeper

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The more stuff you log the more resolution you lose in your log. Don Lasota told me to keep logs to a minimum to maintain quality of the datalog. He logs the maf separately and not through livelink to further improve the log.
I am well aware of that Mike and have been for the last 10 years or more.

But adding the 1 PID has not affected my logs and I have tried it both ways.

It also depends on what computer you are using as well and how fast it can process the information.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Slightly off track - The Justin’s intercooler mod - this the J2Fab deal with bigger inlets and outlets? If so does he do it for Lightnings as well?
 

94slowbra1

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Slightly off track - The Justin’s intercooler mod - this the J2Fab deal with bigger inlets and outlets? If so does he do it for Lightnings as well?
thats correct. not sure about lightnings but im sure if you email him and ask he can help you. same idea just different part configuration
 

whitedevil95

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Well i went back and looked at my final pull datalog with my whipple 2.3 set up. 2.8 upper only whipple vs 2.8 upper only TVS. I did add long tubes also so the TVS shows about 1.25psi less than that whipple. Also this was in march of 2016 so temps were much less than my august tuning.

Whipple with 2.8 showing 17.8psi(STOCK MANIFOLDS)
2,000rpm-6,500rpm 3rd gear
Starting IAT 1: 54 Degrees
Ending IAT1: 50 Degrees
Starting IAT2: 84 Degrees
Ending IAT2: 96 Degrees

TVS with 2.8 showing 16.5psi(LONG TUBES)
2,000rpm-6,500rpm 3rd Gear
Starting IAT 1: 77 Degrees
Ending IAT1: 74 Degrees
Starting IAT2: 81 Degrees
Ending IAT2: 96 Degrees
 

Bdubbs

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I'm a little late to the party. But my iat 2 honestly are pretty much exactly the same from when I ran a bolt on eaton making 455/479. And now running the tvs, 21lbs, headers, and e85.

And the way I drive the car is exactly the same. Never take it out when it's very hot out, like 85+ degrees. The highest I've seen mine go is after a cruise in warmer weather, with some pulls, and letting it idle a little bit in the garage. That was 132°. Otherwise it's normally in 117-125 range.

I have a gords heat exchanger, stock intercooler tank and pump.
 

WaffleMan

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I run 3"/4lb lower tvs on e85, stock everything on the intercooler system (pump, reservoir, H/E). Went through some of my old logs from last year and a full 3rd gear pull from 1600rpm-6400rpm gave these iat2 readings:
1600-2500: 130*
3000-4000: 128*
4500-5000: 130*
5500: 133*
6000: 141*
6400: 146*
let out at 6400 and it peaked at 151*. I was street tuning so the car was fully warmed up, I didn't log iat1 but im guessing it was 80-90 out judging by my starting iat2.

Last year I was making some go pro videos and I did I think 3 or 4 1st-4th back to back pulls, it was pretty cool out, maybe in the 60s. After all those pulls I think I was upper 170s iat2, and took a solid 15-20 min of cruising to bring the temps back down.

Drag racing my car this year I was running immediately coming off the street, its about a 30 min drive to the track. No ice, no fans, between runs I'd only let it sit 15-20 min with the hood up. I don't remember what the starting iat2 was but at the end of the runs iat2 would be upper 160s-170s. Weather for those iat2 was 83*, 63% humidity, 1300ft elevation, DA was 3832ft.

Just today it was 79* out 45% humidity, I did a quick 2-3 blast to redline, car was fully warmed up, iat2 was at 130 before I hit it and at top of 3rd it was 155-160, once I let out it immediately dropped back to 139 in about 15 seconds.

I'll be going back to the track on Oct 14th, I will try to get better data, and I was also thinking of trying out cj428's 2.8" with my 4" lower. I will be sure to get the car nice and cool for the passes.
 

WaffleMan

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Found a couple other logs from tuning that are 3rd gear pulls, no idea on weather or iat1, but car was fully warm and iat2 stabalized.
2k-6500 rpm
116*-142*
cruised for a few minutes and went again
124*-150*
 
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