how much RWHP can the stock block handle???

anton28

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Hey guys im new to the forum and have a few questions about an 03/04 cobra build. Ive spend hours using the search feature with no luck.

At what point do you need to rework the stock block on a 03/04 cobra when building the car for around 800RWHP. Can the stock block handle 700rwhp or even 800rwhp? Whats the first thing that gives out when approching the higher horpower? Crank? Rods? etc. I noticed MMR has a 5.0 short block that is reasonably priced. what do you guys think about MMR's shortblock?


Thanks in advance for all the input!
 

93sspcoupe

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i believe hellion got 1028rwhp with their tt plus stock blower kit. stock block if i recall correctly
 

cbr repsol

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Ive seen many make 1000-1200rwhp . But ive also seen a block completely cracked in all the cylinders and main area, With a whipple 3.4 850rwhp. I think its easier on the block with the turbos compared to a big ass 3.4 with a larger than stock lower pulley(No cage support) with 30psi.I think the main issue is if you get the crank to wobble its either going to snap the snout of the crank of you oil pump gears will fail.
 

anton28

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Sounds like the stock block can handle alot of power if the setup up is right. Is there any reason for going with a MMR or a DSS 5.0 short block besides the extra displacement?
 

SpectorV

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its not how much but how long as well. Generally it seems 600rwhp is obtainable and reliable if tuned right and not beat on every day all day. The failure may not be block related when it does go, generally piston related.
 

99stanger

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Sounds like the stock block can handle alot of power if the setup up is right. Is there any reason for going with a MMR or a DSS 5.0 short block besides the extra displacement?

IMO if you own a terminator and you are keeping it a reasonable 650rwhpish there is no need to looked for a replacement block. Even at higher HP levels it will still hold up fine provided you dont beat on it day in, day out... you have efficient fuel mods, and you have a good tune.
 

anton28

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its not how much but how long as well. Generally it seems 600rwhp is obtainable and reliable if tuned right and not beat on every day all day. The failure may not be block related when it does go, generally piston related.

what are the piston related issues. They are forged from the factory, right?
 

anton28

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IMO if you own a terminator and you are keeping it a reasonable 650rwhpish there is no need to looked for a replacement block. Even at higher HP levels it will still hold up fine provided you dont beat on it day in, day out... you have efficient fuel mods, and you have a good tune.

Thats what i was thinking. 650rwhp would be a safe bet.
 

SpectorV

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what are the piston related issues. They are forged from the factory, right?

they are not the best pistons out there and they are tight in the cylinders. That accompanied with the bad coolant design lets the back cylinders heat up to much and expand to much and scuffs the sidewall and messes it up.
 

Riceater52910

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It also comes down to how your making 700-800Rwhp. A turbo setup will produce the same power a Whipple 3.4 does on less PSI, it takes a lot of power to drive a positive displacement blower.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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A compound boost (turbo over stock blower) set up is the most flexible, it is also very powerful, has awesome street drive ability and massive low end is retained.
If built from the start as an E85 car then tuned for multiple fuels, I view this as the ultimate Terminator combination.

It will safely make over 800 rwhp, if cooled properly, on E85.
Can run on 93 in a pinch and still perform very well.

Keeping stock pistons off the cylinder walls, also involves a knowledgeable owner, who doesn't do back to back 140 mph runs without a proper cool down.

If I were building one I would use a very large oil to air oil cooler, plus a Tiger Racing road race hood to get rid of all that heat more rapidly that twice the factory horsepower is going to make, in addition to all the normally accepted cooling mods.

Flex fuel compound boost, watch for it.;-):p
 

MrSwa

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A compound boost (turbo over stock blower) set up is the most flexible, it is also very powerful, has awesome street drive ability and massive low end is retained.
If built from the start as an E85 car then tuned for multiple fuels, I view this as the ultimate Terminator combination.

It will safely make over 800 rwhp, if cooled properly, on E85.
Can run on 93 in a pinch and still perform very well.

Keeping stock pistons off the cylinder walls, also involves a knowledgeable owner, who doesn't do back to back 140 mph runs without a proper cool down.

If I were building one I would use a very large oil to air oil cooler, plus a Tiger Racing road race hood to get rid of all that heat more rapidly that twice the factory horsepower is going to make, in addition to all the normally accepted cooling mods.

Flex fuel compound boost, watch for it.;-):p

The oil cooler is something that has been intriguing me for as of late. is "very large" the size of the evans unit (seen in this thread http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-oil-cooler-bypass-thermostat-mounting.html)?
 

Jimmysidecarr

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The oil cooler is something that has been intriguing me for as of late. is "very large" the size of the evans unit (seen in this thread http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-oil-cooler-bypass-thermostat-mounting.html)?

Link appears broken.
However I found this thread, which may be the same.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ics-my-thermostat-bypass-setup-track-use.html

That is the minimum I would run with 600/700 rwhp, for 800 and up I would run the next size larger and I would run an oil thermostat on it no matter what size I ran.
Oil stats need to be quite large to avoid the issue indicated by the op in that thread.
Notice the factory oil to water oil cooler/heater is replaced by a streamlined water inlet. Nice piece but no longer available from Evans.
Other less streamlined ones are.
 

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