Improved FRPS that won't blow...

Steeda30

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Would be cool, but doesn't the KB disc prevent them from blowing out? I know it's just a band-aid for the real problem, but if it seems to work, I don't see a real need for an upgraded FRP, :shrug:

I may be overestimating the effectiveness of the KB disc, I haven't really read up on the results from people who have used it.
 

doubleblack

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i've heard of people still blowing them w/ the KB disk...but for some the disk does cure it...

those that just purchased your cobras and might not know too much about the FRPS...I advise you to do a search on blowing FRPS's and see what kind of damage it can do to your motor...some usually keep a spare stock one in the trunk in case it lets go...i've heard of people blowing them on a stock car when hitting the rev limiter...once the gas starts mixing w/ your motor oil...look out motor...I believe the gas starts getting sucked into the vacuum line off the FRPS...but hopefully you catch it before it gets this far...if you suspect a blown FRPS and smell gas in the vacuum line off the FRPS, I'd change motor oil immediately...

If you've blown one look for bad idling, stumbling and tough to start or won't start at all...a bad one can leave you stranded on the side of the road...

w/ my new twin screw set-up, i'll be carrying a spare stock one just in case...especially that I'll now have a BAP...but it would be awesome if there was a solid upgrade out there that wouldn't bust w/ spikes in your fuel pressure....
 
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broke7

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There is no known defense against blowing and frps hahahah


I think its a combo of tune, alternator voltage and the heavens and stars aligning at once.

I blew close to 13, and finally went away......not sure what fixed it. It was a mix between the KB disc, fuel pumps, PPRV and new alternator. Its gone, and hasnt came back. If I had to put a finger on it, it would be PPRV or alternator


It takes alot of gas to affect the motor, same thing as spraying your car with a wet kit, I had gas in my vacuum system, never had an issue. I had one of the strongest stock motor's known to man that lasted 46k miles
 
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doubleblack

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broke, i totally remember reading about your FRPS woes...how come nobody stepped up that time to make a better one...MJ says it's doable now...
 

broke7

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broke, i totally remember reading about your FRPS woes...how come nobody stepped up that time to make a better one...MJ says it's doable now...

not sure. I honestly dont think there is a demand for it.

My car blowing frps's is totally different than what happens to most people. My car would blow the sensor everytime I got on the gas and took it upstairs past 5500rpm.


In my case.....There is a mechanical side which has a silicone disk in it, which is rupturing, once this ruptures, it allows fuel to pass from the rail directly thru the sensor and out of the vacuum port into your vacuum system which essentially drowns the car. Car wont run regardless. Fuel pressure will default to 78psi......


Then there is case # 2 which happens to most, which is an electronic failure. In this case you can just unplug the plug off the sensor and car will run just fine, no fuel will be present in your vacuum lines. Only issue is that you wont have any fuel pressure ramped/added under boost since the electronic side can no longer feed info to the pcm since it has failed to raise pressure.


If MJ can make one...thats kickass. At the time there were only two of us that I knew of that had the issue. He went thru close to 15 sensors, and me 13, he swapped to a return system. I fought the issue. I carry a spare always as I recomend everyone to do. They are only 55 bux thru Tousley Ford.
 
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doubleblack

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what did your fuel pressure look like while they were blowing? fuel press at close to redline when they blew right?

I don't think most of the newer owners know of the FRPS demon...thanks for sharing your experiences...
 

broke7

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what did your fuel pressure look like while they were blowing? fuel press at close to redline when they blew right?

I don't think most of the newer owners know of the FRPS demon...thanks for sharing your experiences...


It would be regular 38psi or (FRP) and would just get stupid and peg, 78psi or so, that is when the sensor blew.

I had changed everything in the complete system from motor to tank short of the injectors.
 

doubleblack

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believe me, we felt your pain...I thought you almost sold the car because of it..LOL...

didn't you tinker w/ the tune too...that was just weird...
 

03Cobra05GT

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It takes alot of gas to affect the motor, same thing as spraying your car with a wet kit, I had gas in my vacuum system, never had an issue. I had one of the strongest stock motor's known to man that lasted 46k miles


Umm what do you mean by that?

And I need a little more insite about the FRPS if someone can help.

Here's my troubles as of late:

It started a few weeks ago hesitating for just a split second after I would shift and get right back into WOT.

Now, for the last few days...if I am upwards of 3K rpm, and I nail it, the car will hesitate, or start stuttering like it's breaking up. I'm really worried that I might have caused motor damage.

I am pullyed and tuned.
 

doubleblack

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Umm what do you mean by that?

And I need a little more insite about the FRPS if someone can help.

Here's my troubles as of late:

It started a few weeks ago hesitating for just a split second after I would shift and get right back into WOT.

Now, for the last few days...if I am upwards of 3K rpm, and I nail it, the car will hesitate, or start stuttering like it's breaking up. I'm really worried that I might have caused motor damage.

I am pullyed and tuned.

Off hand it kinda sounds like your FRPS...

one way to check if you have a blown FRPS is to pull the vacuum line off of it and see if you can smell gas...also, see if you can smell gas on your oil dipstick...are you getting a check engine light? I believe you can also scan for any codes w/ an OBD2 scanner...as posted above, they can go bad in one of two ways...you can either have a ruptured FRPS bladder or the electronics gone bad inside of it...I'm not sure if the scanner would pick up the bladder problem...

will the stuttering happen while it's not in boost? As said above, if you unplug it and your stuttering goes away, then it's your FRPS. But before testing like this make sure that your stuttering happens when not in boost...if it's stuttering while in boost then unplugging it can blow your motor because the FRPS tells the EEC to add fuel while in boost...

let us know what you find...
 

broke7

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Umm what do you mean by that?

And I need a little more insite about the FRPS if someone can help.

Here's my troubles as of late:

It started a few weeks ago hesitating for just a split second after I would shift and get right back into WOT.

Now, for the last few days...if I am upwards of 3K rpm, and I nail it, the car will hesitate, or start stuttering like it's breaking up. I'm really worried that I might have caused motor damage.

I am pullyed and tuned.


What I meant my car was beat the hell out of the minute it rolled off the dealership lot. I had sprayed the living hell out of it with untolds amount of n20, it saw a twin screw, nitrous + twin screw. Many lean conditions and it failed to kill over and die.......


Your problem sounds like a PPRV which is in the tank, but could be a variety of things, plugs, fuel filter, anything. I would get some NGK tr6's, gap them at .032 and call it a day.

Pull the plugs and take a look...
 

04MystiCobra

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It started a few weeks ago hesitating for just a split second after I would shift and get right back into WOT.

Now, for the last few days...if I am upwards of 3K rpm, and I nail it, the car will hesitate, or start stuttering like it's breaking up. I'm really worried that I might have caused motor damage.

I am pullyed and tuned.
Did you install 60 lb injs? Is your FRPS plugged in?
 

kirks5oh

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What I meant my car was beat the hell out of the minute it rolled off the dealership lot. I had sprayed the living hell out of it with untolds amount of n20, it saw a twin screw, nitrous + twin screw. Many lean conditions and it failed to kill over and die.......
...


+1 i've seen some of his vids, they're impressive.
 

03Cobra05GT

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Thanks for the advice guys.
NO CELs. NO codes, nothing. It does NOT do it when I'm driving normal. In fact, the car drives great even under small, progressive boost, but then second I stomp it and make it go WOT it sputters, and cuts out, or it will hesitate some times.

The car has been running months on the current mods with no problems. Not until it got cold did it start to act up.

I just changed the oil on Saturday, and didn't see or smell any gas in it or the dipstick.
 
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03Cobra05GT

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Bumping this....anymore info on my problem. I did search through quite a few FRPS threads, and problem seems similar, but just slight differences. Like the fact that my car runs ok if driven normal, or easy.
 

doubleblack

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what happened when you re-gapped your plugs to .032? I would try everything first before thinking about the PPRV...dropping the tank kinda sucks...

also, don't totally rule out the FRPS yet either until you know for sure...
 

03Cobra05GT

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I didn't get a chance to do anything with the plugs yet. It's been pouring outside.
 

MikeW

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I am on number 7 (I think).

Like Alan I hacked into several of them to see the diaphram. I may have never popped one it seems. I had a shorted MAF wire that was acting like a bad FRPS. Broke7 always found gas in his vac line (best I remember) and I did not. I have the $5 KB disk and the number 7 FRPS has held up well.

IF there were a better version of the FRPS I would get one just for kicks but still have an extra on hand just in case.
 

Tractionless1

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what happened when you re-gapped your plugs to .032? I would try everything first before thinking about the PPRV...dropping the tank kinda sucks...

also, don't totally rule out the FRPS yet either until you know for sure...



I did the PPRV this past weekend, it isn't that bad once you find out the tricks, which aren't listed in the "How to's."
 

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