Installed an Afco GT500 heat exchanger in car

bigmoose

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I'm interested too see if it makes a difference or if the surface area of our intercoolers is the limiting factor as I've always thought.
 

KLLR SNK

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The EMP shows quite an increase in volume and velocity. An inline rheostat might be useful for allowing the coolant to stay in the HE a little longer.
 

MalcolmV8

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Isnt the KC's main fault that the AC system turns off at WOT? If you do a WOT pull from 1st-4th, thats a good amount of time where it isnt doing anything at all and you're back to relying on the HE, if its still installed.

That makes no difference. The KC takes 5+ minutes to cool the fluid. A WOT pull happens in seconds. The fluid is heated in the intercooler almost immediately and even if you have a reserve of pre-chilled fluid it can't get into your intercooler fast enough. Besides it was an easy enough change in the tune to make the A/C stay on at WOT and test it ;)

The EMP shows quite an increase in volume and velocity. An inline rheostat might be useful for allowing the coolant to stay in the HE a little longer.

Not at all. A common misconception. Speak to Bell or any other high end core manufacture and they will tell you the key to making a core cool is flow. You need the fluid to have a massive velocity. It cools by extracting heat into the fluid and taking it away with it. Sitting in the core moving along slowly to do some heat transfer is not how they primarily work.
If I could have found an even more powerful pump I would have gotten it.
 

A stallion

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That makes no difference. The KC takes 5+ minutes to cool the fluid. A WOT pull happens in seconds. The fluid is heated in the intercooler almost immediately and even if you have a reserve of pre-chilled fluid it can't get into your intercooler fast enough. Besides it was an easy enough change in the tune to make the A/C stay on at WOT and test it ;)



Not at all. A common misconception. Speak to Bell or any other high end core manufacture and they will tell you the key to making a core cool is flow. You need the fluid to have a massive velocity. It cools by extracting heat into the fluid and taking it away with it. Sitting in the core moving along slowly to do some heat transfer is not how they primarily work.
If I could have found an even more powerful pump I would have gotten it.

Did you instal the EMP Stewart pump in the car yet ? And are you going to run a hob switch ? I am always a big fan of your cool inventions


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MalcolmV8

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Did you instal the EMP Stewart pump in the car yet ? And are you going to run a hob switch ? I am always a big fan of your cool inventions

No I still need to build a bracket for it but still waiting on the 5 gallon trunk tank to arrive. No HOBBS. It'll be turned on / off and run just like the factory pump.
 

whitedevil95

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Isnt the KC's main fault that the AC system turns off at WOT? If you do a WOT pull from 1st-4th, thats a good amount of time where it isnt doing anything at all and you're back to relying on the HE, if its still installed.
Not really. For me a Full 1-4 pull takes 10 seconds. The core inside the KC is freezing cold and stays cold for several minutes even after the AC is off. I have tested that just in normal driving by turning off the KC and it takes 3-5 minutes for the IAT temps to come up as the core loses its coldness.

It would seem Malcolms plan is predicated on upping the flow through the IC a significant amount over stock rather than having colder fluid. I am excited to see his results.
 

SilverNotch

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I'm interested as well! I am doing an eaton swap on my 01 cobra and would love to prevent any problems with heat with upgrades.


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A stallion

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No I still need to build a bracket for it but still waiting on the 5 gallon trunk tank to arrive. No HOBBS. It'll be turned on / off and run just like the factory pump.

Have you heard of 3/4 Purosil 80 series heater hose?

It is insulated and good for -65 to 350*F. I am sure it will help reducing the cooling temp during traveling in the engine bay. I would add it to your new setup


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bigmoose

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Have you heard of 3/4 Purosil 80 series heater hose?

It is insulated and good for -65 to 350*F. I am sure it will help reducing the cooling temp during traveling in the engine bay. I would add it to your new setup


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I got rid of all my factory hard line and replaced it with this stuff. It made a huge difference. The uninsulated hard line just soaks up the heat from the radiator.
 

MalcolmV8

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Have you heard of 3/4 Purosil 80 series heater hose?

It is insulated and good for -65 to 350*F. I am sure it will help reducing the cooling temp during traveling in the engine bay. I would add it to your new setup

I have not. I'm using silicon hose which I would think is as good as any for insulating and it's also very flexible so I can route it how I want without using any 45 or 90 degree adapters which will hurt flow.
 

Weather Man

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Shop powered up the pump so I could see it work. When they initially loaded the tank with water first time, tech said he was amazed how fast the pump emptied it out.

 

GT Premi

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Your heat exchanger and intercooler cores work on the principle of exchanging heat with flow. The more flow the better. So no that's not going to happen. At least not with any pump we can put in our cars.

That is also exactly why the killer chiller fails at WOT. It doesn't have any decent flow. It chills the fluid causing a seemingly good heat transfer of your intercooler when it's not working very hard like idle and cruising. However go into WOT when you really need the cores to transfer heat and they fail with the killer chiller because they lack flow.

At least that's my theory for now. Logs will put this to rest when I'm done :)

But the KC doesn't have a fluid pump. So how is "flow" a fault of the KC? Wouldn't that be a fluid pump issue?
 

Weather Man

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Very cool. Remind us which pump that is?

Lingenfelter

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Rambro

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Malcolm would the gt500 H/E be a worthwhile upgrade from the stock H/E while also having an under hood I/C tank? I'd like to do a trunk mount tank eventually, but for now I'm just going to roll with the lethal tank I just bought.
 

MalcolmV8

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Malcolm would the gt500 H/E be a worthwhile upgrade from the stock H/E while also having an under hood I/C tank? I'd like to do a trunk mount tank eventually, but for now I'm just going to roll with the lethal tank I just bought.

Absolutely it's going to shed a lot more heat than the stock unit.
 

MalcolmV8

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What about over a similar 03 cobra AFCO setup? Also how far our are you from testing things on your new set up?

Yes the GT500 version is HUGE by comparison and has much more surface area for heat transfer. The dual fans will also be a huge help IMO. We'll do more testing this summer.
I'll have more solid results and data logs this summer.
 

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