IRS driving me completely insane!! (moaning/creaking - video inside)

[dutch]

Thanks bruce, I was afraid it was some other kit then yours!
Would you recommend WD40 or something else? I've tried white grease in spray form, but I don't think it has the penetrating capacity of WD40.

 

[ac427cobra]

I didn't hear any banging or knocking sound on the video. Maybe I'm not hearing it the same.

The audio was too poor to be clear on what it was. I was merely stating it should be obvious listening to it in person as to whether or not it's a metal rubbing or bushing squeaking issue.

Thanks bruce, I was afraid it was some other kit then yours!
Would you recommend WD40 or something else? I've tried white grease in spray form, but I don't think it has the penetrating capacity of WD40.

I don't like the WD40 because it's too thin and won't last. I have a can of Valvoline synthetic penetrating lubricant and that is something you need to look for. Spray it on the rotating parts liberally and bump the car up and down to work it in.

If the paint was not removed at install the squeak will most likely come back unfortunately.

 

[dutch]

thanks! Only valvoline products I can find here are 1299WD multi spray and synthetic white chainlube..

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

I have not had a chance to install my grease fittings yet, so I was going to pick up this new Royal Purple product and give it a try,
Royal Purple Handy Magazine Tests Maxfilm

I have had amazing luck with all of their other products so until I can do the grease fittings I'm going to give it a try.

It might be worth ordering some and having it shipped or order the Valvoline version.

 

[SlowSVT]

I like the Prothane grease for the control arm bushings. The stiff is very thick and won't get squeezed out or ooz.

Prothane Motion Control 19-1751 - Prothane SuperGrease - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

[dutch]

Very thick means I won´t be able to just spray it on and see if it penetrates and works though.

 

[SlowSVT]

Very thick means I won´t be able to just spray it on and see if it penetrates and works though.

That's why its furnished in a grease gun tube. Not having grease occupying any gaps means grit will get in there. Delrin has no sense of humor to any abrasive finding it way to the crush sleeve or the thrust faces. Periodically greasing the joints will push any contaminates out and replace the old with the new.

WD or penetrating oil has no film strength. I admit the stuff worked great quieting the leafsprings in my 67 Ford Econoline :banana:

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

I like the Prothane grease for the control arm bushings. The stiff is very thick and won't get squeezed out or ooz.

Prothane Motion Control 19-1751 - Prothane SuperGrease - Overview - SummitRacing.com

That stuff is awesome!

If using grease fittings or greasing a disassembled IRS I would definitely recommend using that grease!

However on an IRS that does not have grease fittings and is in an assembled state.... GOOD LUCK! It is really thick and hard to apply.

 

[SlowSVT]

That stuff is awesome!

If using grease fittings or greasing a disassembled IRS I would definitely recommend using that grease!

However on an IRS that does not have grease fittings and is in an assembled state.... GOOD LUCK! It is really thick and hard to apply.

Jimmy

It's the best lubricant available when you want it to stay were you put it. True statement about applying it without fittings. I'm still trying to figure out how to accomplish that if one didn't install zerk fittings from the word "GO" :shrug:

 

[dutch]

Ok, I found it to be one of the LCA bushings sorta sticking or something.. loosened the bolt and it went away, sprayed the heck outta everything with WD40 and white grease afterwards and tightened the bolts again. Most of the noises are gone now though some of them remain.. maybe the LCA arms still, or the upper arms.. but it's def comming from the bushings. Any tips I can do with the IRS in the car, I really don't feel like taking it all out again. I just want to start enjoying this car!

It's going on a lift again this friday for the subframe connectors install, so anything I can do then is a profit!

 

[ac427cobra]

Ok, I found it to be one of the LCA bushings sorta sticking or something.. loosened the bolt and it went away, sprayed the heck outta everything with WD40 and white grease afterwards and tightened the bolts again. Most of the noises are gone now though some of them remain.. maybe the LCA arms still, or the upper arms.. but it's def comming from the bushings. Any tips I can do with the IRS in the car, I really don't feel like taking it all out again. I just want to start enjoying this car!

It's going on a lift again this friday for the subframe connectors install, so anything I can do then is a profit!

If you have determined some of the noise was coming from the LCA then most likely not all of the paint was removed or it's simply dry.

You're going to want to spray it down the best you can and hope the lubricating qualities of the spray can penetrate the area making the noise.

Eventually you're going to want to take it out, install grease fittings and make sure ALL of the paint is removed from inside the buckets where the control arm bushings are rotating.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[SlowSVT]

Ok, I found it to be one of the LCA bushings sorta sticking or something.. loosened the bolt and it went away, sprayed the heck outta everything with WD40 and white grease afterwards and tightened the bolts again. Most of the noises are gone now though some of them remain.. maybe the LCA arms still, or the upper arms.. but it's def comming from the bushings. Any tips I can do with the IRS in the car, I really don't feel like taking it all out again. I just want to start enjoying this car!

It's going on a lift again this friday for the subframe connectors install, so anything I can do then is a profit!

If one pivot point is dry the others can't be far behind. Derin is suppose to be self lubricating but under the pressures imposed by the suspension grease will act as a buffer between the rotating surfaces. Regular grease will get squeezed out. The Prothane grease as stated is very thick.

Make sure you weld those sub-frame connectors on "weight-on-the-wheels" or your doors won't close.

 

[mach1033]

That stuff is awesome!

If using grease fittings or greasing a disassembled IRS I would definitely recommend using that grease!

However on an IRS that does not have grease fittings and is in an assembled state.... GOOD LUCK! It is really thick and hard to apply.

I just ordered that grease after your praise of it lol. Gonna put it in next weekend.

 

[dutch]

problem with that stuff is I'll have to take the IRS out and apart I presume?

 

[ac427cobra]

problem with that stuff is I'll have to take the IRS out and apart I presume?

Unfortunately, yes.

 

[dutch]

I was afraid of that... Any other solutions?

 

[dutch]

Finally found someone with the exact same problem I´m having, but the solution is missing.. At least I think I´m certain now that it´s the LCA´s.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ons-211/483043-delrin-bushings-guys-poll.html

Ok, I've had some serious creaking on the IRS ever since I installed the complete delrin bushings kit. The creaking seems to get worse the warmer the car gets. In the morning, when it's cold, it takes a little longer for it to start creaking. it creaks on EVERY little irregularity on the road, even smooth ones. When I did the bushings, i did the springs as well. I am running iso's in the rear, doesnt seem to be that. Tryin to find out what you guys think it may be.

i thought about it, and "squeeking" was the wrong choice of words to use. the sound the rear makes is a creaking sound. kinda like when you step on old hardwood floors or steps.

I tried to find some of that motorcraft PTFE grease here but got a weird look from the Ford stealership. Might try and find some at a home depot because I think it´s sorta like the stuff they use to seal piping and plumbing.

Probably gonna have to drop the LCA´s some day, clean them and the ears up good and lube it all up.

I´ve used an entire can of PTFE spray, but it only helps so much for a few days.

 

[ac427cobra]

Finally found someone with the exact same problem I´m having, but the solution is missing.. At least I think I´m certain now that it´s the LCA´s.

If you are certain it is the LCA's take an oil can and run a bead of oil along the top of the Delrin bushing flange and the subframe. Do this to all of the LCA bushings. You may have to repeat it a few times.

I´ve used an entire can of PTFE spray, but it only helps so much for a few days.

The Teflon spray you're using, I'm guessing has no real penetrating qualities to it. You need something like a synthetic penetrating lubricant but if you're sure it's the LCA's I'd go with my oil suggestion above.

This is a common problem for people that did not remove all of the paint on the inside of the buckets where the Delrin makes contact and rotates. Some of the earlier kits we had put the Delrin right on the subframe. With our new stainless steel shimming washer arrangement, the Delrin never touches the subframe any more. It's always isolated by a stainless shimming washer.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[dutch]

This is one of you´re earlier kits I think we´ve established before.. I don´t seem to recall seeing any shims either.

Are you talking regular motor oil? I just regular PTFE spray. I'm concerned the problem is within the bushing itself. Been reading people having the black gunk build-up between the bushing and the crush sleeve. Since mine doesn't have grease fittings, and it's an early set, I'm worried about that gunk build up. Also because mine starts to make noise after about a mile, so that makes me think the alu crush sleeve needs time to expand before making noise. def gets worse the longer I drive too.

But the oil if def worth a shot.

 

[ac427cobra]

This is one of you´re earlier kits I think we´ve established before.. I don´t seem to recall seeing any shims either.

Are you talking regular motor oil? I just regular PTFE spray. I'm concerned the problem is within the bushing itself. Been reading people having the black gunk build-up between the bushing and the crush sleeve. Since mine doesn't have grease fittings, and it's an early set, I'm worried about that gunk build up. Also because mine starts to make noise after about a mile, so that makes me think the alu crush sleeve needs time to expand before making noise. def gets worse the longer I drive too.

But the oil if def worth a shot.

Yes, regular motor oil. It will seep into small places and lubricate which will eliminate the squeak.

Only a very few people purchased the very early kits that had steel inner sleeves. This was back in 2004. They were a problem with the rust and black gunk buildup. In 2005 I went to aluminum on the inner sleeves and then started Hardcoating them sometime in 2006 or 2007.

I wouldn't worry about the gunk build-up. Get it oiled down and it should stop making noise. I'd try to do the uppers as well as long as you're in there!