IRS rebuilding questions. LPW Diff cover or BF IRS brace?

Freakingstang

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Ive got the car ripped apart right now. I'm replacing all the IRS bushings with the Full MM kit, using coupe springs that I will cut, installing MM FLSFC, etc. I bought the BF IRS brace when I bought the pullies last fall, but haven't installed it yet.

When I ordered everything else, I ordered a LPW IRS diff cover too, thinking I could use the brace with the cover for an even stronger setup. Well the brace won't fit the LPW cover, without lots of cutting and welding. What would be the stronger setup to run?


I was hoping the LPW diff cover was o-ringed like the Fore cover, but it is not. I just don't want this thing to leak when I put it together. Does anyone make a rubber diff gasket? I know you can use RTV, but one RTV sets, and if the car flexes at launch, it basically tears the RTV.



Thanks
Steve
 

utfan98

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Use the Ford RTV (TA 34), which is much better then stock. This stuff is for diesel oil pan sealing (has nothing to do with a Mustang or a Cobra for that matter). I do not think it will leak if you clean the mating surfaces correctly and let it sit for at least 24 hours. Mine has not. This stuff dries like a rock not rubbery like the poopy stock stuff.

I do not know who would make a o-ring gasket, ask Fore where they get there stock from. Does Fore's have a recessed surface for the o-ring?
 

P49Y-CY

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the lpw cover won't work with a billetflow brace, and it is not necessary either

yes the fore cover has a machined recess for the o-ring

op you will be fine with just the lpw cover and seal it using the proper silicone material

best of luck, i have the lpw cover and it is a real nice piece.
 

Freakingstang

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Use the Ford RTV (TA 34), which is much better then stock. This stuff is for diesel oil pan sealing (has nothing to do with a Mustang or a Cobra for that matter). I do not think it will leak if you clean the mating surfaces correctly and let it sit for at least 24 hours. Mine has not. This stuff dries like a rock not rubbery like the poopy stock stuff.

I do not know who would make a o-ring gasket, ask Fore where they get there stock from. Does Fore's have a recessed surface for the o-ring?

Yes the Fore cover is a recessed, o ring grooved cover, where as the LPW is flat like the stocker.

Basically I want to know if Ford or anyone else makes a rubber diff gasket so I don't have to rely on RTV. hard or soft, it doesn't matter if I launch the car on slicks at 5K and the cover shifts a fraction of a c0nt hair to make it leak....
 

c6zhombre

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i think the short answer is there isn't one available for the lpw......but it might not hurt to contact lpw directly. i checked their website and their 8.8 ford instruction set says this:

6. Apply silicone to the cover instead of a gasket to limit cover deflection. Install the cover and torque the 10 supplied mounting bolts to 25 ft/lbs (1/2").


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LPW Racing Products, Transmission Pans, Cap Suppport Covers, Axle Tube Brace, Billet Breathers & Oil Cap, Dragster Chassis Shop, Monster Racing Blocks, Aftermarket Automotive Components, Automotive Components Manufacturer, Distributor, Retailer, High
 

utfan98

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You will be fine with an AM cover or the stocker with a brace and using gray sealant.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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You are already on your way to eliminating flex on the back cover by doing the bushings, hopefully Delrin and Aluminum and not poly.

I would sell the LPW cover and use your stocker with the BF brace.

If you want it to be seepage free here is what I believe is needed.(proven to work on a friends car)

Dill and tap(or use inserts, preferred) the diff housing to the next size up bolt, install new next size up bolts and torque them to spec for that size.(it will be greater)

Use the ultra gray or equivalent gray Ford RTV and let it sit over night before refilling and driving.

Drive and enjoy!:-D:thumbsup:
 
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Freakingstang

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You are already on your way to eliminating flex on the back cover by doing the bushings, hopefully Delrin and Aluminum and not poly.

I would sell the LPW cover and use your stocker with the BF brace.

If you want it to be seepage free here is what I believe is needed.(proven to work on a friends car)

Dill and tap(or use inserts, preferred) the diff housing to the next size up bolt, install new next size up bolts and torque them to spec for that size.(it will be greater)

Use the ultra gray or equivalent gray Ford RTV and let it sit over night before refilling and driving.

Drive and enjoy!:-D:thumbsup:



full Maximum motorsports Delrin kit with Aluminum Diff bushings. I think the subframe bushings are poly though... It was the full MM race grip package.

What is your basis on using the stock cover with the brace? I'm just asking, not flaming. The stock cover looks very weak. I still might cut and modify the BF brace for the LPW cover... I used to be a fabricator, so this isn't really a big deal to me.

The car is a weekend cruiser, but will see a fair amount of time at the dragstrip. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I just got the MM full length sub fame connectors welded in tonight, before tearing the IRS apart.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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full Maximum motorsports Delrin kit with Aluminum Diff bushings. I think the subframe bushings are poly though... It was the full MM race grip package.

What is your basis on using the stock cover with the brace? I'm just asking, not flaming. The stock cover looks very weak. I still might cut and modify the BF brace for the LPW cover... I used to be a fabricator, so this isn't really a big deal to me.

The car is a weekend cruiser, but will see a fair amount of time at the dragstrip. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I just got the MM full length sub fame connectors welded in tonight, before tearing the IRS apart.

I was just thinking on the money side, if you can make it work with BF brace use the LPW.
 

03mgtermi

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i like the LPW cover a lot. has main cap supports and separate drain and fill plugs. also gives you some extra fluid capacity. which helps with fluid longevity and temperatures.

mine fits and looks great and no leaks at all...i did the grey RTV silicone and let it sit overnight. also, make sure both surfaces are completely clean. i used rubbing alcohol on mine. the leaks are mostly caused by repeated flexing of the IRS, remedied with hard bushings and diff mounts. as always, torque to spec and use a criss-cross pattern like you do on lug nuts.
 

Bdubbs

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How so? :shrug:

Well looking at MM's kit they mix some delrin bushings in with some poly ones. I think it would be best to use "ALL" one type of bushing. Heres a breakdown in price directly from FTBR website.

Q: "How is your kit priced versus the kit I'd get from Maximum Motorsports?"

A: The cost for Differential Mount set (front and rear) is $155.00. The MM set, part number MMIRSB-40 is $249.95.

The cost for the Delrin Upper Control Arm set is $125.00. The MM set, part number MMIRSB-2 runs $199.00.

The cost for the Delrin Lower Control Arm set is $285.00. The MM set, part number MMIRSB-1 runs $349.00.

The cost for our UHMW subframe bushing set is $120.00. The MM poly bushing set, part number MMIRSU-1 runs $49.95.

The best explanation I can come up with for this is "you get what you pay for". Besides who wants poly?!?!

The cost for the Grade 8, 9/16" bolts and nyloc nuts are $10.00 for the pair. The MM bolts, part number M14-109 bolt runs $5.99 each.

The MM nuts, part number M14-nut sold separately run $1.99 each.

That's over a $169.00 difference in price. So, it's your money. Do with it what you want!

The cost for the MM IRS bumpsteer kit, part number MMIRSTR-1 is $149.95 and you do NOT get an upgraded toe link with that kit.

Our kit is $159 and it DOES include an upgraded toe link made of high tensile strength steel.

You have to spend an extra $100 for the MMIRSTR-2 to get an upgraded toe link.

So if you're interested in the bumpsteer/upgraded toe link kit, that would be an additional cost savings of $90 bringing your total cost savings to $332.91!
 

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