JAN 8th Dyno Day CANCELLED

JaKaL

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Geeze, I’m gone to Reno for a few days and things fall apart!
Seriously. The 15th could work, but from what I see I need a welded bung-yes you can start making the wisecracks anytime-and I’m not sure I’ll have time to do that. Nor do I know squat about how it is done correctly or even where I’d get it done. I’m open to suggestions.
I did try to register at Stangnet to say all this but the page isn’t working. I’ll try again tonight. Right now though I’m looking to replace bodily fluids lost in a 2 hour wait for de-icing on the ramp at Reno. At least I got a free bump to First.
Beer & the MGW Shifter install is next. I’ll catch up with you all later.
 

RickSvt

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Hey jakal, glad that your trip is going well.....take it easy on those drinks.lol......once again, sorry you all about the dyno day, its just that 2 of them were 2 close together......I am checking on the bung delima

rick
 

JaKaL

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RickSvt said:
Hey jakal, glad that your trip is going well.....take it easy on those drinks.lol......once again, sorry you all about the dyno day, its just that 2 of them were 2 close together......I am checking on the bung delima

rick

As usual, you’re the star of the show Rik; Lord knows I’d only trust you and my physician to check on my bung dilemma…LOL
As a plus, I’ve got the MGW shifter installed which leaves me with their adjustable handle to donate to the items you have available. Mine goes free to the worthy party of your choice as I no longer need it. I’ve yet to drive with new unit but, just in the garage, it is one short and sweet shifter.
I also need to get my last numbers to James and get a new tune back. I’m thinking, since it runs great and the CC A/F was suspect that he may want me to just re-dyno as is and provide a back-up tune. Either way, I’ll do my best to confirm attendance by Wednesday and will post same on Stangnet, provided I can register.
I’m beat but, before I crash, I want to thank all the NW folks for pitching in to get the next dyno day going. -Lee
 

RickSvt

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Bring the handle to dyno day and I bet you can get rid of it for 20, if not I will take it off your hands and help you out.

Rick
 

JaKaL

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RickSvt said:
Bring the handle to dyno day and I bet you can get rid of it for 20, if not I will take it off your hands and help you out.

Rick

It's yours Rick, I'll throw it in the car now so I don't forget.
I'm taking a run down to Doug's on Monday to get the bung welded. He said he talked to someone yesterday, you probably, and figured the H-Pipe was the place to put it. Does that sound right?
 

JaKaL

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RickSvt said:
Yeah, I talked to him. You want it AS CLOSE TO THE HEADS as possible.

Rick

Thanks Rick. It sounds like I may be the first snake he's done so it will be interesting. You're right about him sounding like I nice guy, very congenial.
 

hmwave

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JaKaL said:
It's yours Rick, I'll throw it in the car now so I don't forget.
I'm taking a run down to Doug's on Monday to get the bung welded. He said he talked to someone yesterday, you probably, and figured the H-Pipe was the place to put it. Does that sound right?

Yes, in the H-pipe and BEFORE the cats. Taking the pipe off first makes the job far simpler.
If you plan to leave the sensor fitted semi-permanently weld the bung between 10 and 2 o'clock to keep the sensor tip facing down. If you don't you can crack the sensor because of water accumulation.
Both bungs on mine are welded at approx. 30degrees leaning in to toward the tunnel.

If you can pick up another bung/plug weld another bung in the other pipe and plug it. That way, when AFR devices support dual channel you can easily connect another sensor and read both pipes (the LM-1 dual channel solution is being developed now).

When you are welding the bung in make sure you have a bung plug or old spark plug in the bung to keep it true. With mine we welded the first 'open' and it deformed slightly making the sensor a tight fit. We used the plug on the second and it was a perfect fit.

It actually doesn't matter too much if it's not up near the heads as AFR at the manifold and just before the cats is damn near the same. I have mine welded in for convenient access just after the x-pipe bend that turns the pipe horizontal toward the rear.
 
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JaKaL

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hmwave said:
....Yes, in the H-pipe and BEFORE the cats...

Wow, thanks for the detailed advice hmwave, very much appreciated. I’m going to print this out and hand it to Doug before he begins. When I talked with him he seemed genuinely eager to please and was most accommodating. I’ll report on the results Tuesday.
I’m not overly worried about my A/F, the beast has never run better, but I do want to be sure. I've gone over the data from the last CC runs but the A/F results appear to be total garbage. Of course, RWTD’s site is down until Monday but I’ll keep trying to connect with James and see if he can make sense of the results.
If you haven’t seen the Oz Dude post it is worth a look. This guy had a Mystichrome vert shipped to Australia and when the conversion to right-hand drive is done he’ll have $90k US invested. Serious snaking!

Ps. Day 2 of the MGW shifter - man what a difference, I love it.
 

JaKaL

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Fairlady Motors; Notes from today's trip

Made the run to Fairlady today, met up with Doug and got the bung welded in place - $38.08 with Tax.

1) It is a one man shop, and it looks it. He seems very busy and has little time for niceties, like a major cleanup. That's not a criticism, just be prepared to visit a place with the "lived in" look of an enthusiast.

2) You will need the bung done first; no way will there be time with everyone dynoing. It took about 30 minutes and space is tight. Call ahead to make sure he has bungs available 253-565-9823.

3) Mapquest directions work. Plug in your start address and you are set to go. NOTE: The last left turn off 27th to 69th is immediate. Go straight ahead, through the gate when the 69th ends, second row of buildings if memory serves.

4) CASH or CHECK ONLY! He does not take credit cards.

5) Space is tight; you'll be backing up onto the dyno and there is precious little room to stand beside the car during a run. But do bring your cameras, maybe some brave soul can grab a vid from underneath.

6) Coil Packs; He has not dynoed a snake before and we're not sure his pickup will attach. He may have to peel back some tape to get to the hot lead. (I'm ignorant of such things but I took my cover off so he could take a peek and only a run will tell.)

7) Projection of results. He has an overhead projector of the dyno software screen, a really nice touch. It is visible when looking from the rear of the car.

8) Honey Bucket only - just though you'd like to know.

Doug seems like a nice straight-up guy. Anyone stuffing a 5.0 into a old Z and then going the extra mile to put a blower on can't be all bad. East meets West with the intent to create smoke-what's not to like?
 

Christian

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JaKaL said:
Made the run to Fairlady today, met up with Doug and got the bung welded in place - $38.08 with Tax.


8) Honey Bucket only - just though you'd like to know.


:thumbsup: Good to know the little things... they count the most - truth be told!!!

Thanks for the info JaKal... looking forward to meeting you on the 15th... BTW, the MGW shifter... good investment? What unit did it replace? [no hijacking intended]

Christian
 

JaKaL

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Christian...the MGW shifter... good investment? What unit did it replace?[/QUOTE said:
I had the stock shifter with the MGW handle. The "handle" was better but no where near the result one gets from the package. The "handle" just moved it closer, the "shifter" put it in gear! You can take mine for a drive and test for yourself on the 15th.
 

JaKaL

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RickSvt said:
Where did he put it at???
Rick

Ahead of the cats and somewhere where at least he knew how to connect to it. Truth is it was a little tight under there and and we were both a little confused by hmwave's description since my H is after the cats and not before. We scratched our heads for a few minutes but settled on a place "up there" where he thought he'd get a good reading. (I'm guessing about 6" forward of the cats- passenger side.) Sometimes you have to trust folks and I'm sure he knows more than I so, I said fine.

He was very conscientious, checked for leaks twice, and then it was over. Time will tell Rick. And soon.

I did try to get pics but my camera was acting up.
 

Joe5.0

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I would think that as long as its before the cats, and set in the right position, you should be fine.
 

hmwave

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mean saleen said:
I would think that as long as its before the cats, and set in the right position, you should be fine.

Yes, ahead of the cats is good.

You want to read AFR BEFORE the gas goes through the cats.
 

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