Killer chiller or custom rear tank setup?? Need help!! Come in!

[MalcolmV8]

For the street either a Killer chiller or the factory HE set-up but not both.

I disagree with this. I did this initially because that's what a lot of people on the internet say. Problem is the a/c must always be on 24/7 and never miss a beat. If the a/c gets over whelmed with extreme heat on a really hot day for example it cycles out or just can't keep up, something happens and your IC fluid temps go through the roof. Next thing you know IC fluid is puking all over your motor.

I chatted to a few local guys with killer chillers and they'd all experienced the same thing (terminators and GT500) and put the heat exchanger back in place and run it inline. It works as a backup and if you forget to turn on the a/c or the a/c cycles out for what ever reason its not a big deal. I tried that and never looked back. It works fantastic and I see no drop in IAT2s with it in place. I know the theory is ambient air is hotter than the chilled fluid and it would actually be heating up the fluid when the KC is performing at its best but real world results don't show any heating of the IAT2s or its so minimal you can't tell but if you turn off the a/c or experience and unreal hot day you get but and no issues.

OP - is the guy looking to open up the inlet and outlet ports of your intercooler Justin Wheeler? I'd be careful. That guy screams scam artist. I've tried talking to him about it. How does opening up the inlet and outlet ports a little suddenly make the intercooler become more efficient? By his theory I should put larger inlets and outlets on my engine's radiator and it'll suddenly become more efficient at transferring heat.
He claims that by him opening those ports the factory IC system will OUT PERFORM a killer chiller setup. Think about that for a second. Then of course you could add ice to the tank and he says you'll be so far beyond what a killer chiller could ever do. He also says killer chiller is junk and doesn't work. I've asked for numbers, proof or even just results of before and after doing his mod and he comes back with arguments and just keeps saying I don't understand how intercoolers work. I'd do more research before shelling out $600 for him to open up the ports a bit when he has such outrageous claims and can't back anything up with any proof or numbers.

If someone here has any experience or before and after results of his opening up the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger by all means please post up.

 

[whitedevil95]

On a warm so cal day when i still had my HE attached and got on the freeway with a lot of air flow through the HE i would see my IAT2s go up by 5-7 degrees because of the heat. I noticed my IAT2s were cooler when i wasnt moving much. So i dumped the HE and just run the KC full time. I watch my IAT2s on my Aeroforce gauges all the time so if there was a spike i would see it.

 

[Biff-Mach1]

I disagree with this. I did this initially because that's what a lot of people on the internet say. Problem is the a/c must always be on 24/7 and never miss a beat. If the a/c gets over whelmed with extreme heat on a really hot day for example it cycles out or just can't keep up, something happens and your IC fluid temps go through the roof. Next thing you know IC fluid is puking all over your motor.

I chatted to a few local guys with killer chillers and they'd all experienced the same thing (terminators and GT500) and put the heat exchanger back in place and run it inline. It works as a backup and if you forget to turn on the a/c or the a/c cycles out for what ever reason its not a big deal. I tried that and never looked back. It works fantastic and I see no drop in IAT2s with it in place. I know the theory is ambient air is hotter than the chilled fluid and it would actually be heating up the fluid when the KC is performing at its best but real world results don't show any heating of the IAT2s or its so minimal you can't tell but if you turn off the a/c or experience and unreal hot day you get but and no issues.

OP - is the guy looking to open up the inlet and outlet ports of your intercooler Justin Wheeler? I'd be careful. That guy screams scam artist. I've tried talking to him about it. How does opening up the inlet and outlet ports a little suddenly make the intercooler become more efficient? By his theory I should put larger inlets and outlets on my engine's radiator and it'll suddenly become more efficient at transferring heat.
He claims that by him opening those ports the factory IC system will OUT PERFORM a killer chiller setup. Think about that for a second. Then of course you could add ice to the tank and he says you'll be so far beyond what a killer chiller could ever do. He also says killer chiller is junk and doesn't work. I've asked for numbers, proof or even just results of before and after doing his mod and he comes back with arguments and just keeps saying I don't understand how intercoolers work. I'd do more research before shelling out $600 for him to open up the ports a bit when he has such outrageous claims and can't back anything up with any proof or numbers.

If someone here has any experience or before and after results of his opening up the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger by all means please post up.

this^^

 

[94slowbra1]

I'm going to keep an eye on some of the people who have purchased Justin's kit. I did read some of the dialogue between Malcolm and Justin on FB and it went just as Malcolm said.
I for one am not going the KC route so any improvement I can make to cooling other than a KC I'm down for looking into it. I can see how flow would improve the cooling, his claims are a little steep though. Time will tell I guess. I do know one thing, I don't want to run the a/c 24/7.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I do know one thing, I don't want to run the a/c 24/7.

That was probably my biggest hesitation at getting a killer chiller and made me hold out forever. There's some sort of weird stigma with running a/c constantly, I think from prior experience on smaller engine cars in the past and how it created drag and less power to drive.
Once I started using it though I don't even think twice about it, a/c on and go and enjoy the results lol.

If you do find something that out cools the killer chiller and doesn't require using the a/c please do post up.

 

[SlowSVT]

If you do find something that out cools the killer chiller and doesn't require using the a/c please do post up.

this will do that

 

[apex svt]

this will do that

What in the world is that unit?

 

[94slowbra1]

Also interested in what it is

 

[SlowSVT]

That's a peltier chip

It's a heat pump. Very effective but it consumes the same amount of power in watts as it moves in BTU's. An array of them in a closed loops system connected to the HE they will soak-up every BTU it can get it paws on but you'll need a bigger alternator to drive them.

I designed a cooling system using these for a remote communication enclosure located out in the desert but they are generally frowned upon because it takes 100 watts to cool 100 watts. The good thing is the more it cools the system the less power it will consume.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I remember some 10+ years ago when I used peltier coolers on my computer CPUs it was cool stuff back then. I even had a mini fridge that had no moving parts and was peltier cooled. I've never seen them used on a larger scale, didn't realize they scaled up so much. Unfortunately you'd need a second alternator to power it on the car trying to cool the blower lol. Be fun to play with though.

 

[SlowSVT]

I remember some 10+ years ago when I used peltier coolers on my computer CPUs it was cool stuff back then. I even had a mini fridge that had no moving parts and was peltier cooled. I've never seen them used on a larger scale, didn't realize they scaled up so much. Unfortunately you'd need a second alternator to power it on the car trying to cool the blower lol. Be fun to play with though.

It's very risky to cool a CPU using one of these. They will freeze the moisture that condenses on the CPU which will short out the motherboard when it melts.

I wouldn't cool the blower with it there is not enough power in the world to do that. The IC system is a different story it doesn't get real hot which would be more "doable". All you have to do is machine a HE out of aluminum with a "hot side" and a "cold side" plumbing the hot side into the HE on the front of the car. You will need another pump to circulate the coolant thru the IC. It would be interesting to see someone try this out the system has no moving parts other then the extra pump but its a very simple system.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I don't think they were powerful enough to condense moisture on them. The ones we used on CPUs anyways. Man that's a long time ago, I had forgotten about those days till you post that pic. It was a bit of a fad back then. Cool new technology and it had no fan on the CPU. Obviously didn't catch on long term and I haven't seen that in so long.

 

[GodStang]

So what makes the killer chiller not efficient enough to cool large tanks (5-7gals)? Is it our A/C compressor or the size of the heat exchanger it comes with?

This is the last thing I have to figure out for my build.

 

[Willie]

I'll be selling my GT500 very soon but returning it to near stock before I do. I ran a KC for one year but will be removing it and selling. I'll make a "killer" deal on it. PM me if interested. Sorry, I do not know the difference between a Terminator and GT500 unit.

 

[MalcolmV8]

So what makes the killer chiller not efficient enough to cool large tanks (5-7gals)? Is it our A/C compressor or the size of the heat exchanger it comes with?

I'm curious as to this myself. I don't see why it couldn't cool a larger volume of liquid. It would just take longer to bring it down to temp.

My experience has been if there's a constant none stop heat source (my 2.9 Whipple) and it's a very hot day the a/c does get over whelmed. You can tell by how much heat is dumped into the radiator from the a/c condenser and eventually the a/c won't be able to keep up.

 

[GodStang]

This is the last thing I need to sort out to get my car going. I keep jumping back and forth on what to do. Pulleyed for ~30psi and e85. Do I run a normal tank and killer chiller, just a trunk tank and no killer chiller or do a 12"+ KC like heat exchanger instead of the 7.5" and see if it will cool a 5-7 gallon tank. Had huge heat soak issues on my last build could not get over 17 degrees timing.

I'm curious as to this myself. I don't see why it couldn't cool a larger volume of liquid. It would just take longer to bring it down to temp.

My experience has been if there's a constant none stop heat source (my 2.9 Whipple) and it's a very hot day the a/c does get over whelmed. You can tell by how much heat is dumped into the radiator from the a/c condenser and eventually the a/c won't be able to keep up.

 

[MalcolmV8]

This is the last thing I need to sort out to get my car going. I keep jumping back and forth on what to do. Pulleyed for ~30psi and e85. Do I run a normal tank and killer chiller, just a trunk tank and no killer chiller or do a 12"+ KC like heat exchanger instead of the 7.5" and see if it will cool a 5-7 gallon tank. Had huge heat soak issues on my last build could not get over 17 degrees timing.

My prior combo was 30 PSI and prior to that I ran 27.5 PSI for a couple years. That heat soak is a HUGE Problem so I know exactly what you're talking about. For me a larger than stock reservoir in the stock location (3 quarts) and a killer chiller was the solution. My experience was the heat exchanger in the bumper just can't cool the fluid very much. The fluid will always be a lot hotter than ambient and your IAT2s will always be up there. A trunk mount setup just means a larger capacity of warm fluid that the heat exchanger can't cool.

If your car is a drag car you could put ice in the reservoir but after one pass you're dumping and re-icing. If it's a street driven car which mine is that was not an option.

 

[keith89]

I disagree with this. I did this initially because that's what a lot of people on the internet say. Problem is the a/c must always be on 24/7 and never miss a beat. If the a/c gets over whelmed with extreme heat on a really hot day for example it cycles out or just can't keep up, something happens and your IC fluid temps go through the roof. Next thing you know IC fluid is puking all over your motor.

I chatted to a few local guys with killer chillers and they'd all experienced the same thing (terminators and GT500) and put the heat exchanger back in place and run it inline. It works as a backup and if you forget to turn on the a/c or the a/c cycles out for what ever reason its not a big deal. I tried that and never looked back. It works fantastic and I see no drop in IAT2s with it in place. I know the theory is ambient air is hotter than the chilled fluid and it would actually be heating up the fluid when the KC is performing at its best but real world results don't show any heating of the IAT2s or its so minimal you can't tell but if you turn off the a/c or experience and unreal hot day you get but and no issues.

OP - is the guy looking to open up the inlet and outlet ports of your intercooler Justin Wheeler? I'd be careful. That guy screams scam artist. I've tried talking to him about it. How does opening up the inlet and outlet ports a little suddenly make the intercooler become more efficient? By his theory I should put larger inlets and outlets on my engine's radiator and it'll suddenly become more efficient at transferring heat.
He claims that by him opening those ports the factory IC system will OUT PERFORM a killer chiller setup. Think about that for a second. Then of course you could add ice to the tank and he says you'll be so far beyond what a killer chiller could ever do. He also says killer chiller is junk and doesn't work. I've asked for numbers, proof or even just results of before and after doing his mod and he comes back with arguments and just keeps saying I don't understand how intercoolers work. I'd do more research before shelling out $600 for him to open up the ports a bit when he has such outrageous claims and can't back anything up with any proof or numbers.

If someone here has any experience or before and after results of his opening up the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger by all means please post up.

lol i had the same experience with the guy when I asked for impiracle proof that his setup would outperform a killer chiller. He basically called me stupid, so I just left. I have a killer chiller btw. From the looks of it, his product would not perform as well as cobraengineering.net's offering. Sadly, he seems to be using friends to peddle his crap. He also made a bold claim that he builds the best alternator offering for the Cobra...
Cobraengineering's intercooler adapter gets rid of those stupid o-ring tubes entirely and upgrades to 3/4" coolant ports. It also has the added benefit of eliminating the boost leak past the o-rings which was the issue I was having.

 

[keith89]

So what makes the killer chiller not efficient enough to cool large tanks (5-7gals)? Is it our A/C compressor or the size of the heat exchanger it comes with?

This is the last thing I have to figure out for my build.

I originally had a 7 gallon tank in my trunk with a killer chiller. I now have a 3 gallon tank in the trunk to save space/weight. I think the misconception about a larger tank with the killer chiller comes from drag racers since take longer to lower the average temperature of all that coolant. Who wants to heat up their engine and waste gas in the pits trying to cool off 7 gallons? But once it's cool, you're good for a while. There may be a minor difference in intercooler fluid temps with the larger tank due to the surface area of the tank, but if you insulate it, it shouldn't make much of a difference.

 

[MalcolmV8]

lol i had the same experience with the guy when I asked for impiracle proof that his setup would outperform a killer chiller. He basically called me stupid, so I just left. I have a killer chiller btw. From the looks of it, his product would not perform as well as cobraengineering.net's offering. Sadly, he seems to be using friends to peddle his crap. He also made a bold claim that he builds the best alternator offering for the Cobra...
Cobraengineering's intercooler adapter gets rid of those stupid o-ring tubes entirely and upgrades to 3/4" coolant ports. It also has the added benefit of eliminating the boost leak past the o-rings which was the issue I was having.

Haha yeah that sounds all to familiar. I aborted the conversation halfway through myself. It just got stupid when his responses are basically you're an idiot and don't understand and of course his claims are so outlandish its hardly plausible.

Knock on wood I've never had a problem with boost leaking by the orings on the factory setup and I ran 30 PSI of boost. Of course I'm in and out of my setup frequently and when ever there I put in a fresh setup of orings so that probably helps.