Low Oil Level Sensor

[SlowSVT]

I ran across the low oil level sensor used on Fox body cars that may save your bacon.

I noticed a threaded bung on the side of my Canton oil pan which had me scratching my head thinking it was a provision for an oil temp sensor but discovered the real reason for it. This could be a very useful item to have for situations where this will alert you of an unexpected low oil level which will turn on before the pressure switch warns you lost oil engine lubrication which by then is usually too late. It has a 20mm x 1.5 thread. Apparently it's a float switch. Just need to find out what connector it uses. It will even alert you if the oil sloshes away from the pick-up under high G's. A bright red indicator would be a good display inside the cockpit.

Anyone have experience with this item?

 

[01yellercobra]

Double post.

 

[01yellercobra]

The only thing I've heard is fox body guys complain about them leaking. Maybe you could snag a connector out of a car in the junk yard?

 

[SlowSVT]

The only thing I've heard is fox body guys complain about them leaking. Maybe you could snag a connector out of a car in the junk yard?

LOL

I read that too

I think I found the connector as well, it's available from Ford and Rock Auto.

 

[SlowSVT]

The Ford p/n I got for Taska for the sensor is: F2AZ-6C624-B, seal p/n: E9DZ-6C626-B, connector p/n: 3U2Z-14S411-TA


http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/f2az6c624b

 

[SlowSVT]

I received the level sensor yesterday and can confirm the connector and seal listed above are compatible with sensor.

EDIT: I also confirmed the threaded bung on the Canton pan is NOT compatible with this sensor. On my initial install it threaded in to what I thought was the locktite applied to the threads but upon further examination I find it's a different thread most likely ANSI.

It's a single wire sensor which will tie an indicator or audible alarm to chassis ground.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

hmmmm...so any idea how much oil is in the pan when that thing would go off (I guess if nothing else you can add a quart at a time and see when it turns off)? My moroso pan has an extra bung or two on it as well I believe

 

[SlowSVT]

hmmmm...so any idea how much oil is in the pan when that thing would go off (I guess if nothing else you can add a quart at a time and see when it turns off)? My moroso pan has an extra bung or two on it as well I believe

In the Canton pan I would guess about 2-3 quarts based on how high is the sensor is off the floor. Under "G" the oil sloshing to one side of the pan will intermittently trip the switch. I moved my sensor location slightly higher then the Canton pan it should register with 3-4 quarts are left in the sump.

 

[SnakeBit]

when you are down to 2 or 3 qts, or even 3 to 4 its, that puts you down 2+ qts. I'd rather have the light come on at 5 qts minimum. The purpose of the sensor is to tell you when you need to add oil, not when you need to begin ordering engine rebuild parts.

 

[SlowSVT]

when you are down to 2 or 3 qts, or even 3 to 4 its, that puts you down 2+ qts. I'd rather have the light come on at 5 qts minimum. The purpose of the sensor is to tell you when you need to add oil, not when you need to begin ordering engine rebuild parts.

I checked the oil sensor trip level on the Canton pan which turned out to be 3 quarts before it poured out the weld bung. I moved mine a little higher so I think I will be closer to 4 quarts as stated. Keep in mind this does not include the volume of oil in the remote filter, cooler and lines which is probably another 2-3 quarts.

 

[SVT_Troy]

Don't worry about the # of quarts left. The idea is to have the switch trip before you come into a no oil on the pickup situation. If the pickup is covered with 3 quarts of oil in the pan (not including oil in the rest of the system as Russ pointed out) the switch will work as advertised.

 

[SlowSVT]

Troy

Another thing to consider is the amount of oil floating around the engine. Snakebit raised the issue of the trip setting of the sensor at 4 or more quarts which makes sense from a certain perspective. The problem is a considerable amount of oil gets trapped in the heads and suspended in the air from all the reciprocating components spinning inside the engine. A friend of mine windowed the block on a blown 426 hemi engine at Bonneville ................ TWICE!

After the second engine he figured out the motor whipped-up the oil to the extent there was nothing left in the dry sump pan. That 7-9 quarts needed to get the correct level of oil in the Terminator sump will read "low" once the engine is running which the factory engineers already have taken into account so you may have 3-4 quarts left in there when it running. Add lateral G's to the equation will have the sensor tripping pretty often giving the impression the engine oil is low which is why some thought should be given to sensor height in the pan.

I will take some readings on what the minimum volume of oil will keep the pick-up submerged and at what angle which will simulates the oil level at lateral G's.

 

[SVT_Troy]

Russ i think I am in agreement with you. I chose the number 3 (quarts) since it was mentioned. The point I was trying to make is that you need to place the switch at a level that triggers before the oil pickup can be in an oil starving situation.

 

[SlowSVT]

Troy

I think this is more of an issue with our pans with the increased floor space compared to the stock pan where the oil doesn't have as much room to slosh around. I baffled your pan to force all the oil into the sump even during a hard launch and the only way out of the hole is thru the oil pick-up.

Holidays, getting a cold and "absentee welders" has delayed me from finishing the pan and won't make any progress there until next weekend. I'm almost done with the oil cooler and thermostat mounts which I am very pleased with the installation. Very clean hose routing and everything is rubber mounted. After that I will finish the air duct shrouding to the and from the brake cooling duct. I will post those detail on another thread.

 

[SnakeBit]

Here's another viewpoint. My 86 GT had a sensor which worked on startup, but not while the engine is running.

That said, you have 4 its in the pan (maybe a leak last time you ran it, whatever). The sensor is set to trigger at 3 qts. You fire up the engine, but since the sensor was covered, no light. You are very close to losing the engine.

I understand that our heads hold oil, I've heard 1 qt per head in the past, but I really don't know. In addition, unless your engine has the modified, the oil returns to the pan slowly. I always wait 20 min + after shutdown to check my oil level.

If the sensor is set to read while the engine is running, does the sensor need to be submerged in oil, or is splashing oil on it enough to keep the light out (that's why my 86 only read the oil level at startup. And it didn't take much of a parking incline to trigger the light.

Personally, I would test the sensor first with a pan of oil to make sure I understand how it works before trusting my engine to it. Not having a light, I elected to check my oil before the first start of the day. But that's just me, your mileage may vary. :burnout:

 

[SlowSVT]

Here's another viewpoint. My 86 GT had a sensor which worked on startup, but not while the engine is running.

That said, you have 4 its in the pan (maybe a leak last time you ran it, whatever). The sensor is set to trigger at 3 qts. You fire up the engine, but since the sensor was covered, no light. You are very close to losing the engine.

I understand that our heads hold oil, I've heard 1 qt per head in the past, but I really don't know. In addition, unless your engine has the modified, the oil returns to the pan slowly. I always wait 20 min + after shutdown to check my oil level.

If the sensor is set to read while the engine is running, does the sensor need to be submerged in oil, or is splashing oil on it enough to keep the light out (that's why my 86 only read the oil level at startup. And it didn't take much of a parking incline to trigger the light.

Personally, I would test the sensor first with a pan of oil to make sure I understand how it works before trusting my engine to it. Not having a light, I elected to check my oil before the first start of the day. But that's just me, your mileage may vary. :burnout:

I think the sensor is tied into the ECU in the Fox bodied cars and conduct a “lamp test” on start-up to confirm it's working.

Remember it’s reading the volume of oil in the pan not the engine. If you only have 4 quarts before you start it you will only have 2-3 when it’s started once the engine is flooded with oil. It will start to “flicker” on and off as you approach the low level set point as the oil sloshes away from the sensor. That’s where this thing will shine I figure this system will trigger under the following scenarios: a) the owner is so absent minded and never checks the oil and prefers the sensor to do it for him b) there is a loss of oil while it’s being driven and c) your spinning the engine so hard all the oil is “upstairs” in the engine leaving only a puddle in the pan and the pick-up gasping like what happened to my friend Doug Robinson. Your right about the volume of oil trapped in the head. I imagine both cylinder head banks can hold a lot of oil. I opened-up the drain back holes in the heads and chamfered them, smoothed the sharp edges in the block and installed bypass tubes in the windage tray to make sure the oil drains under the tray and not on top of it and back onto the spinning crankshaft.

I would imagine the float switch makes contact once it’s high & dry. I’m not sure what the contact arraignment in the switch is. It’s a thin phenolic tube that flops around in the housing and it sounds like there is a steel ball inside when you shake it. I’ll put a meter to it and test it in the Canton pan and see how it trips in water as you suggested. I don't want this to trigger too early either that could get annoying.

I don’t think too many guys are going to run out and install this in their Cobra but for someone in the middle of a rebuild may want to consider this. I'm getting a M20 x 1.5 tap and will be able to make weld bungs for anyone who wants one in either steel or aluminum which I can do for $20.

 

[SlowSVT]

OK, I tested the sensor using the buzz box in my meter and am happy to report it’s quite effective. All I had to do was touch to tip of the sensor in the water and the buzzer went silent. When it’s high & dry the buzzer sounds off, shake it and it flickers.

I’m going to add adhesive lined heat shrink tubing where the wire terminates into the connector to add some strain relief and spirol wrap the whole wire then use a sealed automotive connector. That’s a pretty nasty environment near the bottom of the pan.

 

[SnakeBit]

I opened-up the drain back holes in the heads and chamfered them, smoothed the sharp edges in the block and installed bypass tubes in the windage tray to make sure the oil drains under the tray and not on top of it and back onto the spinning crankshaft.

Ford should have done that from the factory. Well done.