I was installing the Viking shocks the other day, after I finished and let the car down, I noticed the bump stops are not sitting straight up in the area where they contact the body under load. I have adjusted pinion angle to -1.5, -2.0 on driveshaft side and -0.5 on rear end side. At this setting, it has the bump stops sitting around the 1:30-2:00 oclock position leaning towards the back of the car. Is this normal on lowered cars when pinion angle has been brought back into spec?
Lowered with adjustable upper, now bump stops do not sit straight up
- Thread starter INEEDA_TERMI
- Start date
Something doesn't sound right. If pinion angle is back into stock spec, the axle would be close to the original position. Are you sure the pinion angle you measured is correct? My bump stops sit basically how they did stock.
I measured it with the suspension loaded. I have the BMR upper control arm and mount with the arm in the top hole, and lower relo. brackets with the arms in the middle hole. Should I just shorten the length on the arm until its back straight up?
Are your lower arms adjustable's? You may need to center the rear front to back in the wheel well. By changing the lowers length, it will rotate it one way or another. Just reread how they are sitting, and sounds like the lowers arms need to be lengthened if possible, which will rotate the stops to the up position. Doing this will affect pinion angle as the diff will rotate, but if your maxed on your upper arm for adjustment, this can help. Either way something doesn't seem right, i'm guessing pinion angle wasn't accurate or you have the nose up on the diff instead of down which will make the bump stops sit towards the back.
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If I go shorter on the upper arm to rotate the rear forward, pinion angle will be like -4 on ds and +1 on rear.
The arms are not adjustable, they are steeda lowers, I have adjustment left on the upper I can shorten it to rotate it back forward. Yes the diff is tilted upwards. Should it be tilted down?
ALso, the rear is perfectly centered in the wheel well.. Maybe I just need to shorten the upper?
I am going outside to see if I can get a picture.. Also, on the upper, I am approx. 4-5 turns out from bottomed out shortening,.
The more you rotate the diff down, the numbers should go +1, +1.5, +2, and the DS angle will also change from -3, -3.5, -4. Here's a pic of the nose down and up.
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Yes, nose should be down, as it will want to rotate up on acceleration.
Possible, if you have room to go. I have adjustable lowers, so centered then adjusted the upper on mine.
Ok. If it bottoms out before you can get it in spec, the axle position may need adjustment.
Drivers side
Pass side
Pass side
I can almost bet the pinion angle is off and measured for nose up which is why the stops are rotated back like in the pics. Are you on a stock DS or 1 piece?
Don't be too worried.
Yours does look a little off, in comparison to most.....but if you have everything set-up properly, you are fine.
I get these inquiries everyday. It is pretty common. (yours does look more "off" compared to most, though)
As long as the tires are centered in the rear well, and the pinion angle is within range, you are good to go.
Yours does look a little off, in comparison to most.....but if you have everything set-up properly, you are fine.
I get these inquiries everyday. It is pretty common. (yours does look more "off" compared to most, though)
As long as the tires are centered in the rear well, and the pinion angle is within range, you are good to go.
one piece. also, it matters which side of the car you measure from. drivers side gives me negative numbers, while pass side gives positive numbers? WTF
Hey Kelly, thanks for stopping by, I checked, double checked, and triple checked and got the same thing, from the drivers side, -2 on ds, -.05 on rear for a total of -1.5. Should I be measuring it from the other side, as that would give me the same angles but in the opposite direction.
@ Kelly, the diff is nose up atm, but only by .5 degrees. Should it be nose down?
Ya, depending how you read the gauge, it swaps from side to side lol. Ideally with nose down, the DS would read negative while the diff positive, but will swap depending what side of the car you are on.
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What susp. setup do you have? could you take a picture of yours to compare. My full setup is, BMR upper mount with adjustable arm, BMR SP0012 springs in rear, BMR SP009 springs in front, steeda lower control arms, FRPP lower control arm relocation brackets, Viking double adjustables, and adjustable panhard.
So what's the standard for which side to use? Im really confused at the moment and I want to get this fixed. I don't want to tear anything up.
I'm BMR upper mount, top hole with BMR upper arm. BMR lowers adjustables, BMR relo's (believe upper hole), BMR panhard, steeda "boss springs", and Strange single ways. I can grab one tomorrow, can't get the car in the garage at the moment, doing insulation.
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