I had a Livernois spring break after about 15k miles which cause it to drop a valve. I am still waiting to get the heads off to see the extent of the damage. Hopefully the block and pistons still are OK! I ordered these straight off their website. The springs arrived rolling around in a very large oily box they were not in any protective packaging what so ever. The bad packaging doesn't make their springs bad but the sloppy presentation makes me wonder about their quality control process especially after their springs trashed my $15k motor.
MANLEY or LIVERNOIS VALVE SPRING -WHICH ONES ARE BETTER FOR COMP STAGE 3 CAMS
- Thread starter 03dsgsnake
- Start date
That sucks man sorry to hear, making me consider changing my springs while the motor is apart.
If I had to do it all over again I would just get custom cams that work with the stock springs or just use a stock cam. It just isn't worth the risk. I have seen springs from every aftermarket manufacturer break. Here is the carnage pics, I had to sell the car as a roller I just couldn't eat that kind of financial loss.
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bump old thread, anyone post updates on their valves?
I went with comp few years ago, after got car together and tuned in 2012 broke a spring few days after tune, luckily didnt fall.
Called comp said they had a bad batch but none matched my purchase time or whatever. Car sat for 1.5 years or so and just put back together, replaced spring with another comp spring, and again 100 miles and BAM broke another on drivers side this time.
This is all on brand new engine, brand new everything. Hasnt been over 60-70mph on street and only "beat" was several WOT pulls on dyno. Both springs broke at an idle. CRAZY!! I will never using comp for anything again. Manley all the way. Even tempted to have my heads machined for dual springs for the extra security, because I havent taken valve cover off yet as my last spring broke maybe 4 hours ago
looking down spark plug hole I dont see anything so Im hoping valve got hungup again and didnt drop.
I have stage 3 crower cams, so the livernois springs are cutting it close to the max of my cams so they are out of the race for me anyway.
I went with comp few years ago, after got car together and tuned in 2012 broke a spring few days after tune, luckily didnt fall.
Called comp said they had a bad batch but none matched my purchase time or whatever. Car sat for 1.5 years or so and just put back together, replaced spring with another comp spring, and again 100 miles and BAM broke another on drivers side this time.
This is all on brand new engine, brand new everything. Hasnt been over 60-70mph on street and only "beat" was several WOT pulls on dyno. Both springs broke at an idle. CRAZY!! I will never using comp for anything again. Manley all the way. Even tempted to have my heads machined for dual springs for the extra security, because I havent taken valve cover off yet as my last spring broke maybe 4 hours ago
looking down spark plug hole I dont see anything so Im hoping valve got hungup again and didnt drop. I have stage 3 crower cams, so the livernois springs are cutting it close to the max of my cams so they are out of the race for me anyway.
Up date......... I have a second valave spring break ,can you ****En beleive it same cylinder this time it was the exhaust valve and has totaled the motor.....
made to their spec my ass....tell us the truth DAN...you guys grind the top of the spring in order for the retainer to fit this effect the spring.........
How coudls i have another one break.........in the same cylinder..........buy from a real manufacture not some cheap knock off. crap, spend a little extra and get real quailty.......
I dont see livernous offering anything in way of compensation for the people that used there spring that failed, if there buit to your specs than you should stand by them..........
made to their spec my ass....tell us the truth DAN...you guys grind the top of the spring in order for the retainer to fit this effect the spring.........
How coudls i have another one break.........in the same cylinder..........buy from a real manufacture not some cheap knock off. crap, spend a little extra and get real quailty.......
I dont see livernous offering anything in way of compensation for the people that used there spring that failed, if there buit to your specs than you should stand by them..........
good info in this thread. thanks for the heads up
From those that know, it's all they recommend.
Gotta a links for these.........
I heard the same.
"sseatr" looks like the Stage 3 Crowers for a 4V are .484" lift so as long as you are not cramming 30 psi of boost on top of them the Livernois 4v springs will be fine.
Glad to hear several members have had good success with our products.
We have never had a spring failure on an engine that was completely assembled built and tuned at Livernois Motorsports.
There are very few U.S. manufactures of valve springs .Just about anyplace you purchase these type of products from is not the manufacture. We have the luxury of having several high quality spring manufactures in our back yard and have worked very diligently to get the modular community a quality part at a great price.
We can not emphasize enough how important setting modular heads up correctly is. Getting tip heights correct and setting lash correctly.This is not a job for your corner machine shop or shade tree mechanic.
Glad to hear several members have had good success with our products.
We have never had a spring failure on an engine that was completely assembled built and tuned at Livernois Motorsports.
There are very few U.S. manufactures of valve springs .Just about anyplace you purchase these type of products from is not the manufacture. We have the luxury of having several high quality spring manufactures in our back yard and have worked very diligently to get the modular community a quality part at a great price.
We can not emphasize enough how important setting modular heads up correctly is. Getting tip heights correct and setting lash correctly.This is not a job for your corner machine shop or shade tree mechanic.
Ok then I have stage two crower cams in my mercury marauder with a 2.3 @ 20 psi .... So what gives .....well under what you just claimed.... These were purchased directly from you as these what you recommended , you claim that these spring are built to your spec via the spring manufacture, yet you don't explain why is it that the top of the springs we're die grinded for clearance so the retainer would sit properly .......if these were built to you specs as you claim you have yet to answer my question.......you completely ignored my question and try to deflect by your Liam claim to tip height...what in the hell would tip height have to do with the spring failing in the middle of the spring..... BTW the shop that assembled the motor builds respectable mod cars and is one of the best tuners out there, and is not to far from your place.... The machine shop that did the valve job and install of you spring has built 2v, 3V ,4V heads for years ...... I won't mention his shop yet ... But will if need be....so please answer my question ,
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"hotford" I have no idea what kind of issues you are having with failing springs not once but twice and on the same cylinder.
I have no idea as to what grind marks you are talking about. I just went to the crib and pulled the part# for a 4V spring. Here is a current image.
These are a non adjustable valvetrain tip height and proper lash have everything to do with proper valvetrain geometry therefor spring life. If the valves side load due to improper valvetrain geometry it will cause premature guide, valve and spring failure.
If you are one of the clients that had a previous design product that has a fantastic success rate overall and you ran in to troubles I have no idea what answers you are looking for. We have been running our current design for a few years or more as far as I am aware.
Many people do not realize that almost all of the valve springs on the planet are made by only a handful of manufacturers. Our springs are made to our specifications, likely by the same companies that others mentioned in this thread are using. Now, with that said, you would find it amazing how many shops that build a ton of these cars just throw stuff in and don't check a thing (note: we aren't saying that's what happened). What was the installed height of the spring? What as the clearance to bind? How do you know the cam wasn't a hair big?
Many people also forget that max lift does not mean you can always run a certain lift. If you are running .500 lift on a spring designed for .500 lift, and then cram 30# of boost on top of it, you actually decreased the capability of the spring as you have increased the pressure on the spring by putting pressure on the back side of the valve. This can create valve float, which can cause the spring to oscillate and break, or cause a seat to be beat out of it, or.... you get the idea. RPM also comes into play as well as every manufacturer rates max lift by the amount of clearance to coil bind, but this is why we list open and closed pressures, so your builder can make the proper determination if the spring has adequate pressures to handle the ramp rate, or additional forced on the valvetrain.
With all of that said, we definitely stand behind our products, but no company on the planet is going to pay for an engine when a part fails. NGK wouldn't pay if a plug broke, Manley wouldn't pay if a valve snapped, Clevite wouldn't pay if a bearing failed due to flaw, Total Seal wouldn't pay if a ring broke. All of those companies, along with every other company out there, would tell you to send the product in, and then if the part was deemed faulty, send you a new part. Now, that doesn't mean that we couldn't have helped out in some manner, but far too often a part is blamed for a failure rather than someone taking the time to really understand what happened. That's the unfortunate nature of the aftermarket. Part A fails, so they replace with part b, and when part b doesn't fail that must have meant part a was bad. This is speculation at best as to what the issue was.
I have no idea as to what grind marks you are talking about. I just went to the crib and pulled the part# for a 4V spring. Here is a current image.
These are a non adjustable valvetrain tip height and proper lash have everything to do with proper valvetrain geometry therefor spring life. If the valves side load due to improper valvetrain geometry it will cause premature guide, valve and spring failure.
If you are one of the clients that had a previous design product that has a fantastic success rate overall and you ran in to troubles I have no idea what answers you are looking for. We have been running our current design for a few years or more as far as I am aware.
Many people do not realize that almost all of the valve springs on the planet are made by only a handful of manufacturers. Our springs are made to our specifications, likely by the same companies that others mentioned in this thread are using. Now, with that said, you would find it amazing how many shops that build a ton of these cars just throw stuff in and don't check a thing (note: we aren't saying that's what happened). What was the installed height of the spring? What as the clearance to bind? How do you know the cam wasn't a hair big?
Many people also forget that max lift does not mean you can always run a certain lift. If you are running .500 lift on a spring designed for .500 lift, and then cram 30# of boost on top of it, you actually decreased the capability of the spring as you have increased the pressure on the spring by putting pressure on the back side of the valve. This can create valve float, which can cause the spring to oscillate and break, or cause a seat to be beat out of it, or.... you get the idea. RPM also comes into play as well as every manufacturer rates max lift by the amount of clearance to coil bind, but this is why we list open and closed pressures, so your builder can make the proper determination if the spring has adequate pressures to handle the ramp rate, or additional forced on the valvetrain.
With all of that said, we definitely stand behind our products, but no company on the planet is going to pay for an engine when a part fails. NGK wouldn't pay if a plug broke, Manley wouldn't pay if a valve snapped, Clevite wouldn't pay if a bearing failed due to flaw, Total Seal wouldn't pay if a ring broke. All of those companies, along with every other company out there, would tell you to send the product in, and then if the part was deemed faulty, send you a new part. Now, that doesn't mean that we couldn't have helped out in some manner, but far too often a part is blamed for a failure rather than someone taking the time to really understand what happened. That's the unfortunate nature of the aftermarket. Part A fails, so they replace with part b, and when part b doesn't fail that must have meant part a was bad. This is speculation at best as to what the issue was.
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