Most Economic Built Engine

[Masheen365]

Ive been hanging out around here for a little while now but haven't really posted much. I've never really had any disposable income to put down on mods.

Late this summer I'll have the opportunity to buy some things for my completely stock 13 GT. First order of business is to get some wheels and tires. I plan on going with 17x7 front and 18x10.5 rear Dark Stars wrapped in NT555 or something similar. I love the way the Race Stars look and the 555s seem to be a decent all around tire.

So my question towards a built block... Is is necessary to get an MMR short block or can I save a few bucks and just replace my crank and rods/pistons with the Boss 302 setup? My future engine add ons are Boss 302 IM (already owned but not installed, took off my F150) and Beefcake Special Paxton. I don't want to push it too high as this is my DD, ballpark 600 RWHP. Car has never been tracked, might never be. I usually just drive to work and back but I do enjoy getting on it occasionally.

Here's my thinking so far. For longevity and peace of mind go with the MMR pro mod block incase I ever decide to turn up the boost. But if I'd be fine with Boss internals at half the price why not? Think low budget for all of this.

Sorry for the long post, advice and comment are appreciated. Thanks.

 

[oldbones]

On my build, I'm planing on just swapping in diamond pistons, oil pump, new bearings and Manley I beam rods in my stock GT block and reuse the factory crank. This will be followed by boost.

 

[chas8180]

Thats the route I went, Boss crank, rods, pistons and valve springs for good measure. That will work great for what you want to do and saves a bunch, especially if you do it yourself.

 

[SL0W5.0]

Thats the route I went, Boss crank, rods, pistons and valve springs for good measure. That will work great for what you want to do and saves a bunch, especially if you do it yourself.

about how much did this set you back?

 

[SID297]

On my build, I'm planing on just swapping in diamond pistons, oil pump, new bearings and Manley I beam rods in my stock GT block and reuse the factory crank. This will be followed by boost.

Switch the I-beams for H-beams (cheaper) and you'd be hard pressed to build a better motor for less money.

 

[BV600]

about how much did this set you back?

+2

Prices I found
Boss 302 Crankshaft M-6303-M50B – $242.00
Boss 302R Piston/Rod/Ring Combo M-6100-M50BR – $759.00

 

[Rct851]

I thought our crankshaft was the same as the boss. Wrong?

 

[Benchracer]

Keep your stock crank. Only thing you need to change is rods, pistons, and billet oil pump gears. ARP hardware, specifically the head studs and arp2000 rod bolts would be highly recommended too for high boost.

 

[BV600]

Keep your stock crank. Only thing you need to change is rods, pistons, and billet oil pump gears. ARP hardware, specifically the head studs and arp2000 rod bolts would be highly recommended too for high boost.

That's a good idea.

Anyone know how much shops usually charge to disassemble and assemble short blocks?

 

[Rct851]

Keep your stock crank. Only thing you need to change is rods, pistons, and billet oil pump gears. ARP hardware, specifically the head studs and arp2000 rod bolts would be highly recommended too for high boost.

Anyone have experience with this type of build? Safe at your typical 650'ish rwhp?

 

[kingnut]

Keep your stock crank. Only thing you need to change is rods, pistons, and billet oil pump gears. ARP hardware, specifically the head studs and arp2000 rod bolts would be highly recommended too for high boost.

how much does all that run parts wise?

 

[Benchracer]

Anyone have experience with this type of build? Safe at your typical 650'ish rwhp?

This is same build I done to my car.
JPC Brad Bench's 1066rwhp Turbo Coyote - YouTube
Only engine mods are Manley pistons, Manley H beams with arp 2000 rod bolts, TSS oil pump gears, ARP head studs and trick flow valve springs from JPC. That is all. All the parts cost me less than $3000. Thats including all the gaskets too.

 

[Sick_Mustang]

Sell your stock motor and throw an aluminator in it?

I've seen people get 35-$4500 for their stocker (mileage depending) and turn around and buy an aluminator for $7500-7800ish

 

[nosympathy]

Wouldn't you have to have the GT crank rebalanced for the boss internals though?

Might be cheaper to buy the boss crank than to get the GT crank rebalanced?

 

[Stormtrooper5.0]

Awesome thread and great info. I was just looking around at shortblocks and what not online but I'd really like to go an economic route for peace of mind with nitrous. Keep it coming.

 

[slagburn]

Wouldn't you have to have the GT crank rebalanced for the boss internals though?

Might be cheaper to buy the boss crank than to get the GT crank rebalanced?

Yep, that's why the Boss crank is a drop-in with Boss pistons and rods, no balancing needed.

If you're doing any other rotating assembly it will need to be balanced so no need for the Boss crank.

 

[grnenvy]

No matter which rotating assy u go with u still need the cylinders checked for straightness and if there straight they need to be deglazed so the rings can set. U can take the chance and slap it together but if the cylinders are out even a little u will have premature ring wear. Good ring seal is very important for power and longevity. Can u imagine going through all that just to have your car smoke on start up and down on pwr?
Good luck

 

[GBCoyote]

600rwhp is not going to require you to "build" your motor. Upgrade your oil pump gears and your fuel system.

 

[Masheen365]

Sell your stock motor and throw an aluminator in it?

I've seen people get 35-$4500 for their stocker (mileage depending) and turn around and buy an aluminator for $7500-7800ish

I'd love to but I cant really afford to have my car down that long. I'm a driveway mechanic, I know some real mechanics that have experience taking down engines and basically building race cars. If I'm doing engine work these guys are the folks that would hopefully be doing it so I'd like to go to them with parts in hand so turn around time is minimal.

600rwhp is not going to require you to "build" your motor. Upgrade your oil pump gears and your fuel system.

I like to leave my options open. If I decide to up the boost down the road I don't want to have to go back and buy the internals then. Plan for the worst ahead of time.

So Boss internals are safe for higher boost applications?

 

[grnenvy]

If you don't have the experience pulling motors or building them I hope u have $$.
Like the last guy said just do Oil pump gears. IMOP sounds like u should have a well trusted shop do it for u also. The factory fuel system can handle a lot with a big injector and FPB. The most important part of this car is a good tune.
I would call Justin @ VMP tuning for that.