Well I was hoping this day wouldn't come so soon but needless to say my engine is hurt pretty badly. The car was waaaay down on power so I put the car on a dyno today. Long story short, very poor numbers. We did a compression test and my #8 cyl was only 25psi while the others were in the 175 range. So the motor has to come out and I'm not sure as to the extent of the damage, piston,piston ring, valve spring, we really don't know what's causing it. Anyways I'm at a crossroads. Unfortunately I don't have an unlimited budget to spend on toys. Stock reman long block is about 4k. I'm wondering if it's a better option to just have mine rebuilt by a shop around here and if that would be cheaper? I'm not sure of the extent of the damge but the car makes no noises, etc.. so I couldn't image why it wouldn't be able to be freshened. Machine work isn't all that expensive and well engine assembly isn't all that crazy either. I'm thinking if I can reuses most of my parts, pistons, rods, crank, etc..I really see no reason why I couldn't do this for far less than the cost of a new reman long block. I'm trying to weigh my options at the moment and some outside input would be helpful.
My engine is [email protected] should I go about fixing it.
- Thread starter ram360
- Start date
Let us know how we can help, a performance rebuild on this engine will run between $1200 and $2200 and will include the cylinder head repair if there is damage and machine work.
Give us a call!
1-877-MOD-POWR
Give us a call!
1-877-MOD-POWR
Are you experienced and comfortable pulling an engine? Tearing it down? Decide what you're comfortable doing. If you're not experienced and you don't have a lot of free and expert help, you'll want to hire help.
My opinion.... If you are comfortable tearing down an engine, before you pull the engine and dive into a total rebuild, you probably want to take off the valve cover and see what's up. If the bottom-end is not damaged, you could fix / rebuild the head a lot cheaper than doing the whole engine.
My opinion.... If you are comfortable tearing down an engine, before you pull the engine and dive into a total rebuild, you probably want to take off the valve cover and see what's up. If the bottom-end is not damaged, you could fix / rebuild the head a lot cheaper than doing the whole engine.
Option 1 - Buy a Ford Racing Terminator crate motor
Option 2 - find a reputable shop to rebuild your motor with better components to take more power.
Depends on how much cash you have and what your goals are
Option 2 - find a reputable shop to rebuild your motor with better components to take more power.
Depends on how much cash you have and what your goals are
Leakdown test should be able to tell you if compression loss is from bottom or top end
Of course, it could be both at this point....
good luck, man!
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get it a 20 over bore with a set of nice pistons and rings, if u can reuse the rest of the short block if it not busted up? some say 98 cobra cams are good for some power too and cheap?
Let us know how we can help, a performance rebuild on this engine will run between $1200 and $2200 and will include the cylinder head repair if there is damage and machine work.
Give us a call!
1-877-MOD-POWR
I'm going to give you a call monday and see what we can work out.
Yea guys, I will pull the motor myself. I've worked on/built many mustangs in the last 8 years but this is my first modular. I think they failure is a combination of high mileage, high boost, maybe a poor tune at one point. I'd like to fix just what is currently broke but given the mileage I'd rather just do a full rebuild all at once and call it done and over.
Order a longblock from Tousley swap over what you need and retune it. By the time you spend 1k in going through the heads the cost of machining and new gaskets and other nickel and dime stuff your better off with the longblock. Also you get 3 yr 100k mile warranty :rockon:
I did look into it but its around 4K plus a 2K core. A warranty is nice but since I'm putting the whipple back on the new motor idk if they'd even honor anything that went wrong with it.(if something did). I'm still thinking a rebuild on mine would be the most cost effective and allow me to upgrade some areas as well.
When i had a similar problem, my crank and rods were ok so i went ahead and up-graded,
teksid block 250-400 ( i have a stock bore teksid for sale)
hot tank and new freeze plugs 100.00
bore and hone 350.00
manley forged pistons with rings 600.00
hang pistons on your rods 80.00
balance 175.00
head gaskets 110.00
arp main and head bolts 380.00
new main and rod bearings 150.00
less then 2500.00
teksid block 250-400 ( i have a stock bore teksid for sale)
hot tank and new freeze plugs 100.00
bore and hone 350.00
manley forged pistons with rings 600.00
hang pistons on your rods 80.00
balance 175.00
head gaskets 110.00
arp main and head bolts 380.00
new main and rod bearings 150.00
less then 2500.00
The problem with the Ford Racing/Tousley longblocks is they use many stock parts, the Rings, bearings, piston pins, and pistons are just stock 03/04 Cobra parts, they are not bad but the are not as nice as the Clevite Performance Bearings and Total seal rings that we use in our shortblocks and rebuilds, and since these parts are most prone to failure it is not always the best investment. Also all of our rebuilds or brand new shortblocks get a 1 year warranty regardless of what power adder is strapped to it!
MMR
MMR
That's pretty much what I'm going to do. I just got off the phone with mark at MMR (Super helpful) and we went through some options. I'm going to have them go and do the complete longblock. Bore, new pistons (if necessary), clevite bearings, ARP headstuds, MLS headgaskets, headwork and complete reassembly so I just have to drop it in. :thumbsup: Now I just got to get this thing pulled out and on a truck ASAP. :burnout:
I have bought several parts from mmr and would not hesitate to continue buying from them, i have bought 2 forged rotating assemblies, a crank, bearings, k-member and a-arms.
Almost all vendors have some problems, it seems like their reputation lately is really good. I would double check any work from any vendor.
im in the same boat as OP. probably gonna pull the motor soon. motor seized. also heard rod knock. ill probably just do the whole long block since itll be out.
Let us know how we can help, a performance rebuild on this engine will run between $1200 and $2200 and will include the cylinder head repair if there is damage and machine work.
Give us a call!
1-877-MOD-POWR
Given the outstanding reputation of this engine source, that is a KICK ASS DEAL!!
These guys are no joke!!:rockon:
Hopefully you don't get hurt too bad on freight, engines are not light.
I would go this route man. You'll end up with an even stronger engine then before, plus there's a warrenty?? Umm, +1 to that!
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