That is good to hear. They are 17's. He is asking $350.
New guy just found this specific forum
- Thread starter pinetopbilld
- Start date
Sounds like a deal! 18's are too big, plus tires are more expensive.
We've discussed on here how you really just need a rim big enough to clear your calipers.
We've discussed on here how you really just need a rim big enough to clear your calipers.
I think at one time or another I read that the 17inch Steeda wheels will accept the Cobra Brembo upgrade.
yep, should be good.
Here is a link to the ad. They must be an older version. I talked with the owner and he seemed to be a great guy. He was going to do a five lug conversion, but ended up getting different wheels. What do you guys think? Do these look authentic?
mustang wheels steeda 17x9
mustang wheels steeda 17x9
Well it looks like the guy I was going to buy the wheels off of has backed out on me.
With that being said, it seems that 17x8's are much easier to come by. Are the 17x9's that much better or can I do just as well with the 17x8's?
With that being said, it seems that 17x8's are much easier to come by. Are the 17x9's that much better or can I do just as well with the 17x8's?
Look for a set of Ford '03 Cobra 10th anniversary wheels, none of the blingy aftermarket deep dish stuff either. The oem ford rims are usually pretty cheap, are 17x9 and dont weigh all that much either. Dont forget that theyre OEM so the quality is better than most of the aftermarket knockoffs.
Well guys its been awhile but I am still reading, learning, and slowly gathering parts. I guess patience pays off though. I kept looking and finally came up with some authentic 95 Cobra R wheels with all the correct markings. A little dirty but look good and even have all of the center caps. So tires??? I have been looking for some used 275/40/17 high performance street tires with a 1/4 to 1/2 tread to learn on but I can't find any. I have however found a few sets of 255/40/17. A little smaller but at least I can get my hands on them. Are they too small or would they be ok to learn on? Open to other options as well.
I ran 275 R comps in the dry, and had a set of 255 Toyo RA for rain tires. But I used them enough in the damp that sometimes I'd end up using them on a dry track. They worked OK. I think the size difference between 255 and 275 will only make a slight difference, not near as much as the brand of tire you finally select. And for learning, if you have some 255's available at a good price, go for it! There will be plenty of time to spend every penny you make on baller tires later when you're looking for 10ths of a second. 
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Sounds good. I didn't even bother to see what kind the 255's were because I wasn't sure if I was going to get them. Now that I know they are a possibility I will check them out. Will they be fine as long as they have Z,W, or Y speed rating or is there something else I should be looking for? Tread wear?
Not trying to hijack but got another new to open track question that might be beatifically to others. How soon into getting track time should you get tow hooks/straps? I'm hoping I don't fly off summit main but encase I do, i was told our cars have no good tow spots, and sometimes the track tow cars don't really car where they tow you and things (eg. bumpers) can get messed up.
For your first time I doubt you will be going faster than 100 mph. That being said, your second time out you may go 110. Third time, 120. Z rated tires aren't that expensive, and honestly, ANY tire will be good enough to learn on. As long as you have enough tread to last a day you'll be fine. Your first day though I doubt you'll notice any significant wear on your tires.
Another thing to think about is that sticky tires can hide mistakes you make. Worst case, its better to spin mid corner at 40 mph than it is at 70 mph. Learn proper car handling (its different than you think!), how to correct for oversteer and understeer, respect the track, your car, and other drivers and you'll be fine. Also, listen to your instructor. Surprisingly enough, they do actually know what they are talking about! :beer:
BIIIIG point to remember: speed comes later.
Example: I've been tracking my highly modified 03 cobra (tubular coil-over suspension, KB supercharged 600hp, yadda yadda) pretty extensively for 4 years now. Two years ago I had a friend who passed me in a bone stock 03 cobra like I was standing still and I lost sight of him after 3 more turns. This last year, he purchased a new 2012 GT500 (more power and better suspension) and I could keep up with him for about a lap before I lost him. The only thing I changed was more seat time (or maybe he just got slower...?
).One last thing: Don't exceed your comfort zone in the car. Thats when you tend to panic and make more mistakes and make it worse (ask me how I know!). If you feel you are going too fast, slow down a bit. You'll save brakes, tires, and your sanity!
*disclaimer: People much smarter and more experienced than I am are on this forum. Listen to them over whatever I ramble on about.
I didnt want to punch a hole through the cobra bumper on my race car so I welded a 2x2 piece of square tubing to the metal inner bumper right in the center with the open end of the tubing facing forward. I then took a 2" peice of flat metal and cut a 1.75" hole in one end. I rounded off the corners once I had the hole cut and welded it in the sqaure tubing.
Tow hooks cant protrude out past the body work per most rule sets so you have to pay attention to length. Mine protrudes out about 3/8" and is painted red. Its fixed but still accessible and its been used once and it worked. :bored:
Im working on a rear tow strap right now, it might be easier on your sn95 car. You might be able to bolt a short tow strap right to the bottom of the bumper and have it clear the bumper cover. I have to weld mine up higher on the metal reinforcement and have it come through one of the slits in the bumper cover on my car.
I went four years before I put on tow hooks, and worried about it all the time. I then started to look at the cars getting towed in, and decided it wasn't worth worrying about much.
Look at it this way. There's three reasons you'll get towed in. Accident/mechanical/out of gas. First, if you run out of gas it is so embarrassing and stupid you deserve getting a bent valance if it happens. If the tow is for one of the other reasons, you're likely to have bigger issues to worry about.
Race cars require hooks more that street cars (the level of mods going up being the determining factor). The more you modify, the more chance, on average, you have of something breaking.
We have a great EV crew at NASA events in the Mid-Atlantic, and they will try to be careful. And they know Mustangs! That being said, in my eight years, I never was towed in once (lucky), but I did feel more at ease once I installed them.
It really depends on how much it worries you. But don't lose sleep over it. When you do decide, there's are a couple threads in here about them, look them up.
Look at it this way. There's three reasons you'll get towed in. Accident/mechanical/out of gas. First, if you run out of gas it is so embarrassing and stupid you deserve getting a bent valance if it happens. If the tow is for one of the other reasons, you're likely to have bigger issues to worry about.
Race cars require hooks more that street cars (the level of mods going up being the determining factor). The more you modify, the more chance, on average, you have of something breaking.
We have a great EV crew at NASA events in the Mid-Atlantic, and they will try to be careful. And they know Mustangs! That being said, in my eight years, I never was towed in once (lucky), but I did feel more at ease once I installed them.
It really depends on how much it worries you. But don't lose sleep over it. When you do decide, there's are a couple threads in here about them, look them up.
Okay guys I still haven't found any right sized tires yet, but I have found a place that has got about 40 to choose from and I am going there this Saturday. Here are my concerns. Do I have to have all four matching? I know size has to be the same, but if I am getting them all in about 1/4 tread do they have to be the exact same kind of tire? Would matching pairs be ok? Matching pair for the front and matching pair for the back. The guy did tell me that he has a matching set of 4 high performance Bridgestone run flats. I have no experience with run flats. Is "H" speed rated high enough?
Only if the price is right....Run flats are heavy, but I have a buddy that drives a Vette that uses them, dd, autocross, and a track day or two.
Greg
You've never been towed????!???
I've never run out of gas on track...but the other two- have rolled in on the end of a strap 6-8 times, and twice on a tiltback.
Greg
You've never been towed????!???
I've never run out of gas on track...but the other two- have rolled in on the end of a strap 6-8 times, and twice on a tiltback.
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Can I pass tech inspection with mis-maatched tires?
As long as you have tread all the way across the tire (down to wearbars wouldn't be a good idea, as a corded tire will cut your day/weekend short). Inspect them every time you come off track. You will be checking air pressures, anyway.
So what is the minimum amount of tread I need start out the weekend? And on the end of the spectrum what is the maximum amount of tread I can get and not worry about chunking the tires?
SCCA solo rules says, "must have visible tread full circumference of tire". If wearbars are touching, you could cord a tire, especially the fronts. Full tread street tire will get hot and chunk. 1/2 tread works pretty well for a street tire. R compound usually are good to go at 4/32 tread. The old Lincoln penny test works. If you can see the top of his hair, you are probably in iffy realm.
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