Opinions needed for the next mod Blower/Turbo

bigmoose

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I had gt pumps with my old returnless setup and my duty cycle was almost maxed at 600whp. I had a BAP on top of it for some safety buffer.

You could go bigger pumps but it won't run a nice as a return system. Fuel pressure isn't super steady with a big returnless system in our cars. Once I went return my pressure was perfectly flat and car ran so much smoother. Most noticeable at idle and part throttle cruising.

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cj428mach

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TVS is it.
To achieve 650rwhp, Will it be able to do it on 93oc and dual ford gt pumps with 60lb injectors?
Or will I need to go returnless?
Your car is returnless now. If you're going to buy a new hat you might look at going return style system. A new hat, pumps, wiring, is about the same on both systems. I think the savings on a returnless system comes from trying to modify the stock hat.
 

UnrealSVT

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Your car is returnless now. If you're going to buy a new hat you might look at going return style system. A new hat, pumps, wiring, is about the same on both systems. I think the savings on a returnless system comes from trying to modify the stock hat.
I'm a firm believer that there's a reason why you're upgrading your car right? You're looking for more power. Well, that solution may work for a little while...but as soon as you get smoked by someone else and the seasons roll by, two years from now odds are you'll want more. With a blower with the potential of a TVS on E85...why cut yourself short. Even if you're only going to run pump...who knows, a year from now there may be an E85 station 4 blocks from your house. My point is, don't cut corners too much. At the very least I would say to go with the budget return system from Lethalperformance.com...

Trust me...youre going to want more and more. Raise the ceiling of your build a bit. Take it from me...i want a 2.9 whipple crusher NOW NOW NOW! LOL But, I just blew a whole in my wallet buying a Level 3 system from FORE along with ID1300 Injectors. Because I don't want to be restricted with a lower horsepower "ceiling". I have to wait on the blower now, but I feel like I made the best decision by focusing my attentionon the supporting mods now, and power later.

Focus on suspension and a solid fuel system now. You will not regret it...just my 0.02.

Good luck!
 

4stang6

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Thanks for the info..
Here's a list of my mods.
-Built Motor (8.5:1 Compression Ratio) By Gearheads Performance
Romeo Block Bored .20 Over
Manley H-Beam Rods
Manley Pistons w/ HD Ring Kit
Kellogg Crank (Turned)
Ford Racing Oil Pump

-Ported 03/04 Cobra Heads
New Exhaust Valve Guides
New Intake Valve Guides

-NGK Tr6 Spark Plugs

-Cylinder Head Cooling Mod (Custom)

-2.76 Billetflow Pulley w/Metco 100m Idler Pulley

-AFCO Dual Pass Heat Exchanger

-Moroso Intercooler Coolant Tank

-KB Boost-A-Pump

-JLT Cold Air Tube w/ Tuneable Induction Elbow

-Ram Powergrip HD Clutch

-Ram Billet Flywheel

-Steeda Clutch Quadrant

-MGW Short Shifter

-Solid Rear Axle “Swap”
Welded Axle Tubes
31 Spline Moser Axles
31 Spline Traction Lock Differential
Megabite Jr lower Control Arms
BBK Upper Control Arms
Upper & Lower Spherical Bushings
Eibach Sway Bar
Eibach Springs

-Mac Offroad Prochamber

-Borla S-Type (Stinger) Catba
 

4stang6

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I do want a TVS, thought about a 2.3 Whipple but like said above, id probley get bored with it and eventually want more.
 

stangfreak

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If you are sticking with 93 octane and on a low budget, I would go straight to the tvs. No question. Its still pricey, but, you get the idea.

If you have lots of money to throw at the car, want something wild, be fast on 93 octane and have the option to run race gas with ease, turbo + auto setup. But this is 20k plus. Lots of work to make it run right and swap over. But, its the ultimate setup. if you want to go fast and you want to race, this is the setup.

A properly setup procharger kit will be faster and make more power than a twinscrew. You just need a little bump in compression, replace the LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD with one from a mach 1 or a older cobra, switch over to a air to air intercooler. custom piping to make this work, etc. Its a big job. Yea, I know guys on here who just bolted on a procharger kit and swear there cars run right and hard. I dont buy it. They are leaving a lot of power on the table. Talk to juiced46 about the procharger. You will see. It takes a lot of work but in the end, I think, it will OUTRUN a twinscrew cobra. IF, done RIGHT. There is also another guy on here who is a vendor that said the same thing. His cobra runs hard. But its setup right.

Then the bigger twinscrews, require more boost. I run a 2.9 whipple but I only run it at 22 or 25lbs of boost race gas only. I dont use pump gas.

Just my opinions.
 

UnrealSVT

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If you are sticking with 93 octane and on a low budget, I would go straight to the tvs. No question. Its still pricey, but, you get the idea.

If you have lots of money to throw at the car, want something wild, be fast on 93 octane and have the option to run race gas with ease, turbo + auto setup. But this is 20k plus. Lots of work to make it run right and swap over. But, its the ultimate setup. if you want to go fast and you want to race, this is the setup.

A properly setup procharger kit will be faster and make more power than a twinscrew. You just need a little bump in compression, replace the LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD with one from a mach 1 or a older cobra, switch over to a air to air intercooler. custom piping to make this work, etc. Its a big job. Yea, I know guys on here who just bolted on a procharger kit and swear there cars run right and hard. I dont buy it. They are leaving a lot of power on the table. Talk to juiced46 about the procharger. You will see. It takes a lot of work but in the end, I think, it will OUTRUN a twinscrew cobra. IF, done RIGHT. There is also another guy on here who is a vendor that said the same thing. His cobra runs hard. But its setup right.

Then the bigger twinscrews, require more boost. I run a 2.9 whipple but I only run it at 22 or 25lbs of boost race gas only. I dont use pump gas.

Just my opinions.

Not being oppositional, just stating facts from what I have seen in person and at the tracks. I will see the centri-blown cars putting down awesome trap speeds, and pulling on the higher end of the rev range...but almost every time I have seen one on the STREET up against a twin screw or turbo it loses. Loses badly. So I suppose you're right on the "DONE RIGHT" comment. I just haven't ever experienced them doing anything more than impressing people at dyno days...

To me logically, it would have to have at least 4.10s and higher compression as you stated...
 

4stang6

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Only thing that worries me is hurting that Longblock I just spent $5100 on getting built lol . But I would guess as long as my tune is on point and conservative I should be Okay.
That's the thing with the PD blowers is generating that extra heat while producing more power.

What other cooling mods would y'all recommend for the TVS?
 

Nightmare302

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8.5:1 is very low on compression, you're only choice will be a positive displacement blower or it will be a dog down low. Don't go lethal, get a Fore setup from one of the vendors here and be done.

Your money would have been better spent skipping the head porting and putting it towards a good fuel system.
 

4stang6

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8.5:1 is very low on compression, you're only choice will be a positive displacement blower or it will be a dog down low. Don't go lethal, get a Fore setup from one of the vendors here and be done.

Your money would have been better spent skipping the head porting and putting it towards a good fuel system.

Head port was already done before i purchased the vehicle.
8.5:1 is Factory, and Several people throw turbos on factory longblocks without any complaints, Is that maybe just because they go twin vs single?
 

Nightmare302

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Head port was already done before i purchased the vehicle.
8.5:1 is Factory, and Several people throw turbos on factory longblocks without any complaints, Is that maybe just because they go twin vs single?
You can put anything you want on a factory shortblock, I'm not arguing that it won't make great peak horsepower however having 8.5:1 on a turbo setup will feel like a complete dog compared to a eaton/ts/tvs car down low and spool will suffer. There is a lot more to building a car than peak horsepower and every part should be selected to compliment the other instead lots of people just buy parts randomly without doing any real research and end up with cars with tens of thousands in them that they hate and perform like crap.
 

sutyak

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I can speak a bit about the 8.5:1 CR and a turbo, since that is what I have on my Mach 1. I bought the car with this built motor, so it was already that CR. I would have gone 10:1 or higher with meth injection had I built it. That being said, a properly sized turbo and gears will make a world of difference. Slapping on the same big turbo as everyone else does (usually the PTE 7675) with 3.55 gears will be a dog down low, but perfectly capable on the track.
I went from the crazy laggy 7675 to a Borg Warner S369SX-E and 4.10 gears, and this combo is much better.
Since you're building from scratch, definitely go 9.5:1 for pump gas, or higher if you have E85 available or want to use meth injection.
 

4stang6

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I can speak a bit about the 8.5:1 CR and a turbo, since that is what I have on my Mach 1. I bought the car with this built motor, so it was already that CR. I would have gone 10:1 or higher with meth injection had I built it. That being said, a properly sized turbo and gears will make a world of difference. Slapping on the same big turbo as everyone else does (usually the PTE 7675) with 3.55 gears will be a dog down low, but perfectly capable on the track.
I went from the crazy laggy 7675 to a Borg Warner S369SX-E and 4.10 gears, and this combo is much better.
Since you're building from scratch, definitely go 9.5:1 for pump gas, or higher if you have E85 available or want to use meth injection.

The motor is already built with 8.5:1
I would love to go turbo, But i did say i WANT to be a on a budget. And there are some people running the On3 Performance setups on their 03/04 Cobras, But it appears they utilize other parts as well, or replace with better parts.
Some even just slap them on and run them and do great. Im not sure how i feel getting a kit KNOWING i will at some point have to replace a part, whether its a pipe, or a turbo, etc...
With the PD blowers they seem like a more of a simple swap.....

I do all my work myself, and love spending weekends fabricating, Modifying, etc on my car lol . So going with the On3 Kit wouldnt bother me even if it broke, Of course i say that now lol but later on might regret it.
 

sutyak

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I don't see anything wrong with the On3 kit piping. I'd replace the turbo, BOV, and wastegate with name brands. I had quality issues with my Hellion kit. I'd also prefer forward-facing manifolds. The piping itself was great quality with perfect bends and fitment, but the ports for the BOV and wastegate were crap. The provided BOV was junk and not large enough. If you can do any pipe fabrication yourself, then go cheap on the kit and tweak away!
I personally love the flexibility of a turbo. A perfectly controllable 10psi for street, and with the push of a button 18+psi for the track (or other times).
Not really trying to talk you into going turbo, but once you do, and you're just a $20 wastegate spring change away from an extra couple hundred HP, you'll never go back to a PD.

Wastegate port before (overboost issues):
20161005_111834-1.jpg


After I ported it:
20161005_144538-1.jpg


BOV pipe jutting into the piping:
20160616_191820.jpg


After with 50mm:
20161007_192604.jpg


Dinky BOV. 30-something mm. Don't remember exactly. Changed to a 50MM JGS:
20160616_192651.jpg
 
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Nightmare302

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Turbo kit will be more expensive and time consuming. For your goals and setup I would buy a TVS and be done. Also, don't run 4.10's in a turbo car. I picked up a metric shit ton of mph by going down gears.
 

MalcolmV8

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