you have a sticking T-Stat...replace it, burp and be done. I would also check your fan connection..Look at the connector and make sure its good.. I know its common issue with the SN95s to burn the plug up on one of the end wires
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Overheated, what am I looking at?
- Thread starter 333arod333
- Start date
Been real busy at work and haven't gotten around to it yet. Will let you guys know once I find out.
Ok, day off of work. So, I pressurized the system with the expansion tank back on. Held pressure, but heard a small fizz from the back of the head. Damn. Looked back there a bit, saw coolant running down the side of the tranny. Fizzing noise is coming from the back of the head. So, its the damn fitting for the cooling mod. The PSI dropped only 1 or 2, but that's enough to let some air in there.
So I have to tighten the bolt that holds that cooling mod fitting in there and reseal it, put a new o-ring on it. That sucks, because u can only get to it if u remove the transmission, which means I have to remove my long tube headers, which means I have to lift my engine etc. That really sucks.
Anyone think I should start off by trying some of that cooling system stop leak stuff? Like the blue devil head gasket sealer stuff or something similar? U guys think that would take care of the leaking fitting?
Anyone have any tricks on how to do this without removing long tubes and transmission and all that?
Thanks guys.
So I have to tighten the bolt that holds that cooling mod fitting in there and reseal it, put a new o-ring on it. That sucks, because u can only get to it if u remove the transmission, which means I have to remove my long tube headers, which means I have to lift my engine etc. That really sucks.
Anyone think I should start off by trying some of that cooling system stop leak stuff? Like the blue devil head gasket sealer stuff or something similar? U guys think that would take care of the leaking fitting?
Anyone have any tricks on how to do this without removing long tubes and transmission and all that?
Thanks guys.
Bummer, man. Super bummer. I would only use that Blue Devil stuff as a band-aid on a beater or a car that was going away. Otherwise, it's only a temporary fix. Yeah, yeah, people use it and have success with it but in my book it's like Fix-A-Flat: gets you going until you can fix it.
I was hoping your situation would have been a simple fix, ie - thermostat or something similar. I have an appointment to get my car looked at on Friday for a similar sounding problem but my car is stock.
You could jack the car up as high as you can, Jack stands on subframe connectors. Jack under the K-member and drop it down about 6-8". Should be enough to get to the back of the heads. This might be easier than pulling the tranny.
Be sure to buff the inside bore smooth before reinstalling the HCM.
Also, Definitely change the thermostat. Hit up JRGOFFIN for a 170*. You should only fill the reservoir to the fill mark etched on the side of the tank. Then replace the cap and do the rest of the fill through the crossover tube. Burp it several times.
Be sure to buff the inside bore smooth before reinstalling the HCM.
Also, Definitely change the thermostat. Hit up JRGOFFIN for a 170*. You should only fill the reservoir to the fill mark etched on the side of the tank. Then replace the cap and do the rest of the fill through the crossover tube. Burp it several times.
Thanks guys.
Sounds like a good idea snakebit... Have you done it this way before?
Sounds like a good idea snakebit... Have you done it this way before?
Anyone done it this way before and had success?
I just removed & re-installed long tubes to install 4r70w (by just I mean started in 2014, per sig & not done yet, I am just lazy). When dropping the K-member, you can gain a lot of room to get to the coolant mod. I am certain that you can do it this way. In fact, Lethal instructions do it this way: http://www.lethalperformance.com/do...ven_flow_03_04_cobra_install_instructions.pdf
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That for the even flow cooling mod. I have the older ldc one that fits into the back of the head.
But I see ur point about maybe getting the motor to drop down enough.
So I'm waiting for room to open up at my shop so I can start everything.
Anyone get to this fitting on the back of the head just by dropping the engine down with the k-member still attached?
Anyone get to this fitting on the back of the head just by dropping the engine down with the k-member still attached?
Wonder how open it is if you pull trans..
I really think our is easy to pull vs some others
Ya pulling the trans would open it right up perfectly, but in order to remove the trans I have to remove my long tubes, and in order to do that, I have to move that engine around so I can get to the bolts. Terrible.
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