pre ordered the new MGW shifter

[Norton]

I am telling you guys ...if you have plans to upgrade to the XL....PLEASE hold OFF!!!!

When you feel this thing you will swear it is a top loader, xl, etc trans shifter. I almost contemplated covering the arms in a billet box lol so people would not focus on the arms.

?This thing IS that solid and I am even tweaking the final production design running now for even better support.

I just cannot imagine spending 3500-4500 for an XL upgrade after running this in our 302S .


wait til you guys see the finished product in a few weeks!!!op:

George

Thanks, George. I look forward to additional details including what, if any, incentives you offer for those of us considering upgrade from the previous edition...

 

[Bad Company]

If you want me to change from my Barton to this new model, please have a stick that allows the use of the stock ball and collar

 

[MGW]

If you want me to change from my Barton to this new model, please have a stick that allows the use of the stock ball and collar

Our shifters have always been able to use the stock knob with them but...

This is a knob we will be offering with the shifter and man i think it trumps anything else!!!

 

[lilredcoupe]

George,

If this shifter cures our 1-2 shift problem you better ramp up production! There are many out there including myself that have tried almost every trick in the book. We are desperate, stop teasing us and get these out the door, :rolling:

Are the shifter knobs going to be available in different colors or just white? Also has a price been established and what kind of incentive are you offering to those with the current model?

Thx

 

[black99lightnin]

George,

My issue is what if it doesn't cure the 1-2 grind lockout? Would you give us our money back? It looks to be a hell of a piece, but I'd hate to be out of $450+ and still have the same issue with this car.

 

[Speedwagon]

Hmmmmm.. What about a group buy?? I'm in ... :banana:

 

[NightRide]

Hmmmmm.. What about a group buy?? I'm in ... :banana:

+1 and I'll just sell the shifter I like the least.

 

[LT5]

I think the greatest improvement lies with George's vision to take advantage of earlier captured rail designs and to integrate it with the semi-remote forks or shifter arms. Solid fork bushings are much easier to install when the fork arms can be installed individually prior to adding the fulcrum lever and base. He's blended a stainless end cap in each fork end with a rubber core which should keep NVH excitation under control while also minimizing deflection.

What would really be nice would be a kit to allow installing the Magnum XL shaft/tailhousing onto your existing TR6060. I'm sure Nate at Tremec could rationalize why that hasn't happened and I suspect they figure that the cost would be prohibitive when for "X" amount of dollars more, you could have a new XL at your doorstep. I'd counter with an economies of scale advantage that could benefit both the XL and a kit that could make it viable. Pull up the CAD drawings, come up with a list of parts necessary, price competitively, and start selling kits! It takes 13+ Mexican Pesos to equal 1 US dollar. Put more Mexicans to work making TR6060 parts for our Mexican made transmissions!

It would appear the Aussie's have created such a kit . While not a direct swap to our cars. It does illustrate that it's possible.
http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.php?page=tremec-tr-6060

Tremec TR-6060 to T56 Magnum Rear Case Conversion - TR6-RCC

Benefits of this conversion:

•Direct Shift, for the most precise shift available
•31 Spline High Performance Mainshaft
•Full Sliding Slip Yoke
•Mechanical Speedo Output
•Correct Shift Position for Early Holden and Ford (please note that floor modifications may still be required).

 

[Tob]

George,

My issue is what if it doesn't cure the 1-2 grind lockout? Would you give us our money back? It looks to be a hell of a piece, but I'd hate to be out of $450+ and still have the same issue with this car.

That's quite a request! Especially if you've ground the synchro teeth up. If yours doesn't grind when being aggressive but not going all out, I suspect it may work for you. George is using a "slower" ratio (in the context of various OEM rates) that should bode well with finiky synchro engagement on our TR6060's.

It would appear the Aussie's have created such a kit . While not a direct swap to our cars. It does illustrate that it's possible.
http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.php?page=tremec-tr-6060

Tremec TR-6060 to T56 Magnum Rear Case Conversion - TR6-RCC

That's pretty much what I was referring to as much as those aren't the exact pieces we'd need. Pretty sad that a Tremec Elite dealer in a country far away is doing it and not Tremec here in the US.

Mr Tovey.... are you listening?

 

[black99lightnin]

That's quite a request! Especially if you've ground the synchro teeth up. If yours doesn't grind when being aggressive but not going all out, I suspect it may work for you. George is using a "slower" ratio (in the context of various OEM rates) that should bode well with finiky synchro engagement on our TR6060's.



That's pretty much what I was referring to as much as those aren't the exact pieces we'd need. Pretty sad that a Tremec Elite dealer in a country far away is doing it and not Tremec here in the US.

Mr Tovey.... are you listening?

Tob, I actually don't even drive the car. It hasn't been tracked since I came out the dealership with the "new" transmission and still had the issue. I would hope there is no internal damage.

 

[Tob]

Ahh yes. Refresh my memory - was this a brand new factory 201X transmission and not a rebuilt unit?

ON EDIT...I know this is a Camaro and that his transmission isn't fully warmed up but is yours this bad under mild driving conditions?

http://youtu.be/wZcj6gbA934?t=50s

 

[black99lightnin]

Ahh yes. Refresh my memory - was this a brand new factory 201X transmission and not a rebuilt unit?

ON EDIT...I know this is a Camaro and that his transmission isn't fully warmed up but is yours this bad under mild driving conditions?

http://youtu.be/wZcj6gbA934?t=50s

Under normal driving conditions 0 issues. Under WOT, it's likey you tried powershifting without using the clutch at all. grrrrrrrrrrrrriiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd, until the RPM's fall down, then you can shift. I'll get with the dealership, but I think it was a new transmission and not a rebuilt. Also replaced the clutch/pressure plate at that time.

 

[Tob]

Does the new one grind just as bad as the old one and in the same rpm range(s)?

 

[Silver_Serpent]

My current MGW works great, buy man I want that new shifter! If anything for the reduced side to side motion when in gear.

 

[black99lightnin]

Does the new one grind just as bad as the old one and in the same rpm range(s)?

Yes. It's only WOT, 6K up. It did it twice after I picked it up, haven't driven it spiritedly since. I was too lazy last night to dig through my receipts to get the part number.

 

[Tob]

Just a thought, but I'm wondering if simply installing a longer stick (which would slow down the ratio) would work well for you.

 

[black99lightnin]

Just a thought, but I'm wondering if simply installing a longer stick (which would slow down the ratio) would work well for you.

It's a thought. The factory 12 shifter feels flimsy, like the stick is made of 1/4" aluminum. It could be just the stick? The 09 had a much more solid feel. I do like the design of the MGW, would just hate to waste the money and have the same issue.

 

[Tob]

The factory shifters 2007-2014, regardless of stick/handle orientation, all use the exact same rubber and steel vibration isolator. This is what you are feeling. When I'm at my desktop I'll link a clip that will show it very clearly.

 

[black99lightnin]

The factory shifters 2007-2014, regardless of stick/handle orientation, all use the exact same rubber and steel vibration isolator. This is what you are feeling. When I'm at my desktop I'll link a clip that will show it very clearly.

When you feel the actual stick it feels tiny. I never remember ever touching the stick on the '09, could because of the boot being a different material that it lends itself to being more accessible?

 

[Tob]

The diameter of the stick may seem "tiny" in comparison to let's say, an old school wide/flat chrome Hurst stick handle. I don't know the exact material properties that Ford used but I assure you it is more than adequate. The shape of the actual stick changed slightly from 2010-2014 over that of the 2007-2009 due to Ford rotating the faces that bolt to each other 90*.


This is what your stick and isolator look like (again, same from '10-'14).

Here's an '07-'09 arrangement. Stick diameter is the same but the shape is different to accommodate the aforementioned face rotation. Isolator is the exact same piece (Ford used the same isolator on Fox's on up).

Here's a Fox body stick/isolator next to that of a GT500. Same isolator, but note that the Fox stick is a bit longer. I'd have to check the threads for the ball as I forget if they are a match or not to yours. Aside from possibly having to tweak the point at which the stick passed through your factory boot, the Fox stick may be a perfect bolt-on for you. It's longer length would give you more leverage and slow down the ratio as well.

Regarding how soft the factory isolator bushing is, take a look at the following clip (I started it at the appropriate point for you).

http://youtu.be/mG-zXu3CUrE?t=13m24s


Eliminating the isolator goes a long way towards putting some feel back into the shifting experience. Something you might want to consider after you've taken care of the grind issue.