Pulling Engine Question

[Strable781]

Hello.

Ive searched forums for my specific answer but can not find the answer to my question.

I need to pull my engine from the top. I know this can be done, and that it is not very hard. I have had the k-member down before but due limitations of available work space i have in my shop, pulling the motor needs to happen through the top. Besides the blower, harness, power steering, ac compressor, etc. does the hydro-boost need to be completely removed in order to make room? Id assume so, but some wisdom and guidance would be appreciated as to what is all entailed as far as “needing removed” before the engine can come out of the top.

Thanks,
-Bill

 

[01yellercobra]

I never moved the master cylinder when I pulled my engine. Once it was free of the mounts I was able to move it around. That's one of the reasons I'll pull the motor if I have to get under the valve covers again.

 

[Rambro]

Headers or stock manifolds? Headers makes pulling out the top a huge pita.

 

[P49Y-CY]

you don't even really have to remove the blower, engine harness, or the hood. you def don't need to touch the hydroboost, all you need to do is disconnect the a/c compressor and p/s pump and let them sit off to the side. you do not have to evacuate the a/c either which is nice.

i just did this for the first time on both my terminators over the past couple of years. i have only basic jacks and hand tools, no power tools. however, i am a rotunda special tools "enthusiast" so i bought their (very expensive) engine lifting kit for the 4v which worked really well and is designed so you don't have to remove the intake. but i am sure a load leveler could work just as well.

best of luck with it and have fun!

 

[Wings65288]

you don't even really have to remove the blower, engine harness, or the hood. you def don't need to touch the hydroboost, all you need to do is disconnect the a/c compressor and p/s pump and let them sit off to the side. you do not have to evacuate the a/c either which is nice.

i just did this for the first time on both my terminators over the past couple of years. i have only basic jacks and hand tools, no power tools. however, i am a rotunda special tools "enthusiast" so i bought their (very expensive) engine lifting kit for the 4v which worked really well and is designed so you don't have to remove the intake. but i am sure a load leveler could work just as well.

best of luck with it and have fun!

Do you have a part number for that by chance?

 

[Black02GT]

Headers or stock manifolds? Headers makes pulling out the top a huge pita.

Preach brother. Rather not discuss my experience getting one back in with 1 7/8" long tubes via the top. Talk about learning things the hardway.

Pretty much what @P49Y-CY said. I don't have the brackets. Usually pull the trans, and most of the FED, blower and intake (easy) and use a load balancer.

A bunch of discussions on here if you Google something like top engine removal and add a space and "site:svtperformance.com"

 

[Black02GT]

Rotunda 303-d087/6 are the factory lift brackets I believe, that attach to the official factory lift points on the side of the heads.

 

[hotcobra03]

I did mine in driveway under a tree branch using a come along .

Straight up old school.

I did move hydroboost to where battery sits. And tie to hold Very easy

Than ac/power hang out on car .

Bell housing bolts thru shifter hole

Pulling blower /intake as 1 unit will give better room to work on back with hoses .

Radiator and fan pull as 1 unit .

I did install with blower on and wish I didn't. Back of motor is tight and hard to see .

The trans I put a 2x4 between brace and it sat in car fine without hanging

 

[Strable781]

Headers or stock manifolds? Headers makes pulling out the top a huge pita.

Headers, not sure what size as i still need to measure. I should mention that the trans will already be removed when the engine gets pulled as that needs refreshed too. Not sure if this makes it easier to pull with headers or not.

 

[Strable781]

I did mine in driveway under a tree branch using a come along .

Straight up old school.

I did move hydroboost to where battery sits. And tie to hold Very easy

Than ac/power hang out on car .

Bell housing bolts thru shifter hole

Pulling blower /intake as 1 unit will give better room to work on back with hoses .

Radiator and fan pull as 1 unit .

I did install with blower on and wish I didn't. Back of motor is tight and hard to see .

The trans I put a 2x4 between brace and it sat in car fine without hanging

Thank you much. This is what i was hoping to hear.

 

[Strable781]

Preach brother. Rather not discuss my experience getting one back in with 1 7/8" long tubes via the top. Talk about learning things the hardway.

Pretty much what @P49Y-CY said. I don't have the brackets. Usually pull the trans, and most of the FED, blower and intake (easy) and use a load balancer.

A bunch of discussions on here if you Google something like top engine removal and add a space and "site:svtperformance.com"

What is it i need to look out for thag makes it a pain? Just tight clearance? Extreme install angle of the motor? The trans will not be coming out through the top, if that makes it easier.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

I believe the headers are just too wide sometimes - I believe the engine bay is narrower at the top between the shock tower.

what about your shop would prevent going out the bottom since you're dropping the trans too? I have a 2 car garage with 10' ceilings and had no problem (8' would work with the hood off)

 

[Strable781]

I believe the headers are just too wide sometimes - I believe the engine bay is narrower at the top between the shock tower.

what about your shop would prevent going out the bottom since you're dropping the trans too? I have a 2 car garage with 10' ceilings and had no problem (8' would work with the hood off)

Its a 20x20 shop I share with my dad. Its loaded with a bunch of wood working equipment, bench, etc. basically alot of the room is already taken up. So i just physically dont have room for the entire front suspension, engine and trans to come out or as well as put somewhere as one unit. This also making the car immobile with no front suspension. If i pull from the top, i can keep the car a roller and still move it out of the garage in order to focus on the motor and trans.

Could i lift the motor up just slightly to get enought room to get the header bolts off if the engine is fighting to come out with the headers on? (coverted to header bolts instead of studs when the heads were last off)

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

Its a 20x20 shop I share with my dad. Its loaded with a bunch of wood working equipment, bench, etc. basically alot of the room is already taken up. So i just physically dont have room for the entire front suspension, engine and trans to come out or as well as put somewhere as one unit. This also making the car immobile with no front suspension. If i pull from the top, i can keep the car a roller and still move it out of the garage in order to focus on the motor and trans.

Could i lift the motor up just slightly to get enought room to get the header bolts off if the engine is fighting to come out with the headers on? (coverted to header bolts instead of studs when the heads were last off)

gotcha.

no idea on the headers, I've only done them on motors on stands

 

[holiks03cobra]

I’ve pulled mine from the top about 6-8 times. With kooks long tubes I had to unbolt and drop the k member to get the motor out. I take everything I can off the motor before pulling and no need to mess with the hydroboost.

 

[P49Y-CY]

Do you have a part number for that by chance?

Rotunda 303-d087/6 are the factory lift brackets I believe, that attach to the official factory lift points on the side of the heads.

yup it's 303-DS086 for the whole kit that includes the chains and spreader bar.

303-DS086 D93P-6001-A 014-00340 Engine Lift Bracket & Bar Set - Tillman Tools

At Tillman Tools you can shop for wide range of essential tools and service equipment offered by Ford Rotunda Tools. Get Ford Rotunda 303-DS086 D93P-6001-A 014-00340 Engine Lifting Bracket Set at best price.

www.tillmantools.com

 

[01yellercobra]

I dropped a motor in a buddies 99 Cobra with long tubes. What we ended up doing was leaving the driver side header off until the engine was about 97% there. It was just high enough to reach all the bolts. We installed the header then dropped it the rest of the way down. I don't remember the brand though.

We might not have had to do that if we had a leveler. All we had were chains and ratchet straps. We also installed it with the trans connected.

 

[03' White Snake]

I pull mine from the top, done it a few times already, with Bassani Mid Lengths installed, don’t need to touch hydroboost or master cylinder. I do unplug the sensor on the master so I don’t crush the wires though for safety.

Definitely recommended a load leveler from HF, worth the $50 to make your life easier. I also recommend removing the front bumper for the hoist clearance and reach. Ask me how I know….. the hoist rolled into my bumper and messed up the paint.

 

[01yellercobra]

When I dropped the last motor in my 01 I had the Bassanis on. I imagine them being mid lengths helped. Although it was about halfway through I realized the steering shaft was in the way.

 

[Strable781]

I dropped a motor in a buddies 99 Cobra with long tubes. What we ended up doing was leaving the driver side header off until the engine was about 97% there. It was just high enough to reach all the bolts. We installed the header then dropped it the rest of the way down. I don't remember the brand though.

We might not have had to do that if we had a leveler. All we had were chains and ratchet straps. We also installed it with the trans connected.

Gottcha. This sounds like the answer to my question in a previous reply. Though, id be doing the reverse (motor out, remove headers while motor is danggling on hoist, pull motor out completely).