Oh, that is true. I am below sea level. That would make a significant difference.
Mike
Reputable shop recommends blower...
- Thread starter cmsnake
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Oh, that is true. I am below sea level. That would make a significant difference.
Mike
all because you have a centri blower instead of a twin screw, doesnt mean the car will be slower in the quarter mile.
If you want to do freeway/roll racing. Get the centri blower. My setup has a lot of top end and 60-130 goes by very quickly.
If you want to do freeway/roll racing. Get the centri blower. My setup has a lot of top end and 60-130 goes by very quickly.
Gotcha. I should do a little more research on the procharger then...
Gotcha. Good info.
Describe minor bolt-ons...
I dont think it was to complicated, just a pita to work with along with the extra cost.
This is why im considering the centri, nice trap speeds for roll racing and it may be safer than a PD. According to Kurgan anyway.
I know the TVS is proven, but are you concerned about the added cylinder pressure the PD blower adds? Just asking based Im what im being told. Im really not in the mood to be going through the bottom end anytime soon.
Centri no fun??? Hahaha mine would light tires up 1-2 and and had be careful on the 2-3 .. So how is a roots more fun. Now at highway speeds my car shined . Raced a 2009 gt500 from 60-buried speedo and I was up by 3 cars and getting further ... And it was not stock had Whipple 2.9 @16#s and full exhaust made 648 and ran 10.94 so it's fun
im not scared to tune anything and we are a dealer for whipple and edelbrock...
thanks bob kurgan
thanks bob kurgan
^ nice. I've also out ran a 2.9 whippled 2010 gt500. Beat him by .2 and almost 10mph. I had some traction issues.
Bob just installed some parts and dyno'd my stang for me a few weeks ago, I didnt have his tune but I've heard nothing but good things with his.
Most of the cars in his shop have Whipples in them....I dont think he'd try to steer you away from them.
Although with the power I have my tires are absolutely worthless, downshifting into 3rd breaks the tires loose like nothing, at a stop light you can forget about it, once I do get them to hook the car moves out.
Most of the cars in his shop have Whipples in them....I dont think he'd try to steer you away from them.
Although with the power I have my tires are absolutely worthless, downshifting into 3rd breaks the tires loose like nothing, at a stop light you can forget about it, once I do get them to hook the car moves out.
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Kurgan is a good guy, but he is a Vortech guy. Myself if I was dead set on a centri I would do the stage II procharger, IMO the D1SC is one of the most hard hitting and reliable mid sized centris out there. I've run low 9s @ 150mph with a D1SC in a 3550lb street driven car with an A2A intercooler and an 8 rib belt - awesome little blowers.
As far as the cylinder pressure of the PD blower hurting parts, I dont think so if you have a decent tune and dont make a habit of flooring the car in 6th gear at 30mph with a manual trans. In theory its true, all that torque is also harder on the entire drivetrain BUT its not as hard on the stock rods and drivetrain as big power at high RPM. With the PD you get both high RPM power and low end grunt, with a nearly 4000lb car I'll take my chances and keep the low end power.
As far as the cylinder pressure of the PD blower hurting parts, I dont think so if you have a decent tune and dont make a habit of flooring the car in 6th gear at 30mph with a manual trans. In theory its true, all that torque is also harder on the entire drivetrain BUT its not as hard on the stock rods and drivetrain as big power at high RPM. With the PD you get both high RPM power and low end grunt, with a nearly 4000lb car I'll take my chances and keep the low end power.
You did it backwards. You should have started this thread then go in to any shop and ask for what you want. Personally, I looked at an online magazine's torque and horsepower graph, then ease of install, then price. Other miscellaneous things to look at is noise, hot weather behavior, etc. Ultimately, you can't go wrong 
.
.im a supercharger guy, but my race car is sponsored by vortech... we deal with all supercharger companies... IN MY EXPERIENCE, i feel the centri blower is the way to go with the coyote setups.. its just personal preference.. heck, we have a coyote SWAP car coming in that we are doing a custom twin turbo setup on soon.
Why ? What makes a centri better for the coyote ?
having owned a 750 hp centri car and now a KB 5.0 making over 600 i can say without a doubt that the PD blowers are the way to go on a street car. the instant torque just cant be beat and as far as spinning goes i can break mine loose in 3rd if i WANT to. i can make 2nd and 3rd hook if i want them to.
I dunno, small cubic inch, heavy car and the PDs work very well for primarily a street car. Race car anything can be made to work but IMO loading a tune, bolting a blower on and drag radials on an auto 2011 5.0 car and running 10.70s at full weight aint going to happen with any of the production centri kits out there. And it wasnt mineshaft air either..
I didnt believe it myself, then I did it, and so did quite a few others.
Personally I like the feeling of the extra torque throwing the car around, sure the A2W intercooler isnt going to make it a bracket racer on hot days but for a daily driver it works just fine. I daily drive this car and on 100 degree days or at 2500' elevation in the mountains it still feels pretty darn good.
If I was building a race car then I would do a centri just because of the intercooler choices and moving the blower off the engine. I'm not saying the PD blowers are perfect, but for what I do it works, says a lot because I could have got a procharger kit for less than 1/2 of what this Roush cost (procharger guys like me
.Nothing wrong with Vortechs though, their kits are always decently engineered and its quality stuff. There is no real 'wrong' choice out there for these as far as blowers go.
Its just my opinion/experience with these so far, I'm sure a well set up centri car is no slouch.
I have met Bob a couple times quite a few years ago, he is a good guy and as knowledgeable as they come.
Centris are cool since you don't have to cut the front cover, it kind of makes the PD blowers a semi-permanent deal if you go to sell the car. You would have to buy a new front engine cover to set it back to stock so you could sell the kit too. I never priced out the front engine cover, but I plan on keeping my car for a while so I don't really care about taking it off and selling it. I really liked the lowend tq and whine from my 04 cobra and I'm going to turn my 5.0 into that with the TVS. If I throw a rod one day, I'll swap in a new aluminator, hopefully later than sooner. So I think for people who only keep there car for a couple years would be better off with a centri due to ease of removal, because everyone knows you'll make more money selling the parts than having it on the car and selling it, especially if you trade it in.
I lean towards the Roush TVS or FRPP Whipple on these for one major reason....
Calibration. The base Roush and FRPP tunes are dialed better than ANY Vortech or Procharger tune I've seen on the Coyote's. (copperhead)
There's far more to tuning a Copperhead than Fuel, timing, Throttle Body, and TiVCT. There's background logic that will limit performance. The aftermarket tuning software currently available does not give us access to some VERY necessary tables. Nor does the available Data Logging software let us log some VERY necessary parameters. (Like TQ demanded/produced, Map, VCT mode, sources, etc)
As tuners our hands are currently tied, therefore it's best to stick with a quality foundation like the Roush TVS and FRPP Whipple.
Not to say there aren't some VERY fast Centrifical and Turbo Coyote's around. It's simply a matter of Tuning vs Calibrating. There's a fundimental difference.
Calibration. The base Roush and FRPP tunes are dialed better than ANY Vortech or Procharger tune I've seen on the Coyote's. (copperhead)
There's far more to tuning a Copperhead than Fuel, timing, Throttle Body, and TiVCT. There's background logic that will limit performance. The aftermarket tuning software currently available does not give us access to some VERY necessary tables. Nor does the available Data Logging software let us log some VERY necessary parameters. (Like TQ demanded/produced, Map, VCT mode, sources, etc)
As tuners our hands are currently tied, therefore it's best to stick with a quality foundation like the Roush TVS and FRPP Whipple.
Not to say there aren't some VERY fast Centrifical and Turbo Coyote's around. It's simply a matter of Tuning vs Calibrating. There's a fundimental difference.
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Yea, its not as easy to pull off the PDs so if you get bored quick and like to trade in cars every year its not the best way to go - especially if you dont do the work yourself.
I have the front cover/AC belt TSB parts here a friend at Ford sent a while ago so I have the cover, no idea what it costs. Doesnt look like a big deal to swap out but honestly I'll probably sell this car with the blower on it. Going to lose money either way, most likely lose less if you part it out and put it sock and trade it in so I hear ya..
Wait, so do the tuners selling custom tunes for the tvs and whipple use the base tunes and just tweak them for more pulley, etc? I am in the market and the included frpp and roush tunes are not putting down that much power on the dyno compared to the custom blower tunes out there... The included tuner for the roush was in the mid 500's IIRC and the custom tune and smaller pulley was over 600 rw.
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