road race style pan

gcassidy

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oops,
I'm running a 03 Cobra convertible, so will I see the same problem with the stock convertible brace under my stock k-member with all aftermarked oil pans?

Yep. And MM told me their K-member brace won't go on verts.

Would I see any benefit from the oil pan and windage tray while doing high speed runs?
Or is it just for a good pickup in corners?

:shrug:
 

99COBRA2881

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Would I see any benefit from the oil pan and windage tray while doing high speed runs?
Or is it just for a good pickup in corners?

Both.... High speed/high rpm goes hand in hand with having a good windage tray. I have the MMR pan but Im going to remove the crank scrapers, ditch the stock windage tray and install the Canton windage tray.

I found one second hand/brand new for a good price and scooped it up. The brief article on Cantons website about '00R production being held up so the motors could use the Canton Windage Tray sold me.
 

speedofsound

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I don't have a problem with clearance, Canton all the way!

IMG_1301%20(resize).jpg


my ride height:
IMG_1297%20(resize).jpg
 

gcassidy

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I don't have a problem with clearance, Canton all the way!



my ride height:
]

Chris, you're like 5 minutes from Summit Point.

You have to bring that bad boy out next weekend and see if it scrapes going into the Karrusel. I'l bet it does, since mine does, and I'm riding higher than you. :beer:

Here's a pic of my altered cross brace.
We had 2 braces, and cut them to overlap by 1". You can just see the welds at the top of the pic.

welded_brace.JPG
 
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speedofsound

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oh geeze! Yeah my goal is to bring it over there. I didn't swap out the solid axle for giggles! I have been trying to clear up soem oil-leakage issues with the turbos and what not so I can pass inspection!
 
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Dirk

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Cutting my convertible brace is no option for me.
1. I'm scraping it already
2. The TUEV in Germany don't like the idea of welding support braces.

Is there another oil pan I could use with the convertible brace?
 

gcassidy

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Cutting my convertible brace is no option for me.
1. I'm scraping it already
2. The TUEV in Germany don't like the idea of welding support braces.

Is there another oil pan I could use with the convertible brace?

We're looking at making a custom brace this summer, since I already scraped in a couple places on tracks, and it's only getting worse with this.
Would they allow that over there?
 

Lumpydogs

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Sorry Dirk but I have to piggy back some questions onto your thread :-D

1) Is the rear sump canton 7 qt pan a direct replacement without mods?

2) Should I get the windage tray?

3) Will I need a special Canton pickup or will the stock one work?

4) Anyone have a good write up on swapping out oil pans, I've never done one. :shrug:

Thanks,

Jeff
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Sorry Dirk but I have to piggy back some questions onto your thread :-D

1) Is the rear sump canton 7 qt pan a direct replacement without mods?
Mine was, stock K.

2) Should I get the windage tray?
Your choice, it also functions as a scrapper, which makes clinging oil become available to be re pumped sooner, which helps to NOT pump the pan dry.

3) Will I need a special Canton pickup or will the stock one work?
Stock one works, I don't believe there is a Canton one, but the factory scrapper has to be ground/cut off.

4) Anyone have a good write up on swapping out oil pans, I've never done one. :shrug:
The K must be dropped. It is one of the VERY FEW mods I paid someone to do. I couldn't get my car high enough with my current jack stands to be comfortable tackling this job.

Thanks,

Jeff


In red
 

MFE

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The stock pickup might technically work, but if you don't use the Canton pickup then you're losing almost all the benefit of running the pan in the first place. The stock pickup will not reach back and down into the sump's trap door setup, so slosh control is reduced, and you'd have a quart or two's worth of oil space between the pickup and the bottom of the pan. Doesn't matter though, because the pickup comes with the pan.

Also, the crank-scraper isn't so much to keep oil available for the pickup, but to keep it off the crank as it spins, reducing the rotating mass and keeping a >little< more power.
 
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gcassidy

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Also, the crank-scraper isn't so much to keep oil available for the pickup, but to keep it off the crank as it spins, reducing the rotating mass and keeping a >little< more power.

Hey, when you're at 281 like me, every little HP helps. :banana:


The one thing I regret in putting mine on is that I didn't have the budget to do headers at the same time, since the K member was off. :cryying:
 

Lumpydogs

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Thanks for the info guys. I can always count on SVTP for sound advice.



"Bartender, bring another round of virtual beers for my friends" :beer:


***Update - Canton Oil Pan, Windage Tray and Gasket Ordered***
 
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Jimmysidecarr

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The stock pickup might technically work, but if you don't use the Canton pickup then you're losing almost all the benefit of running the pan in the first place. The stock pickup will not reach back and down into the sump's trap door setup, so slosh control is reduced, and you'd have a quart or two's worth of oil space between the pickup and the bottom of the pan. Doesn't matter though, because the pickup comes with the pan.

Also, the crank-scraper isn't so much to keep oil available for the pickup, but to keep it off the crank as it spins, reducing the rotating mass and keeping a >little< more power.


The stock pickup is all that I see available for 4.6 and 5.4 applications.
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/pans/road_race/modular.html

On the 5.0 push rod engine however, I totally agree.
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/pans/road_race/ford_rear_sump.html

The 4.6 Cobra has a reputation for filling the valve covers up with oil during extended high RPM operation. The stock Cobra oil pump is a very capable high volume unit.
I have heard of many 96 through 04 Cobras hurting rod bearings through verifiable oil starvation events(engine forensics 101).
This unwelcome expense usually occurs shortly after driving ability and tire grip increases are combined.

It certainly doesn't happen to all of them, but the road race pan is an excellent durability mod IMHO.
We all want our track toys to last a good while.:beer:
 

gcassidy

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Well, Summit Point (Shen) the last 2 days was my second event with the Canton pan (aluminum). The first was VIR in the rain, no high G-loads. But at Summit, I was getting a few drips out of the rear of the pan. A friend with one says Cantons are often hard to completely seal :dw:. Is this the case?
I also developed a very bad high-frequency engine vibration by Sunday afternoon. I will need to diagnose that. I hope it isn't something related to oil starvation. Engine is stock other than pan, CAI and exhaust. Sigh.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Well, Summit Point (Shen) the last 2 days was my second event with the Canton pan (aluminum). The first was VIR in the rain, no high G-loads. But at Summit, I was getting a few drips out of the rear of the pan. A friend with one says Cantons are often hard to completely seal :dw:. Is this the case?
I also developed a very bad high-frequency engine vibration by Sunday afternoon. I will need to diagnose that. I hope it isn't something related to oil starvation. Engine is stock other than pan, CAI and exhaust. Sigh.


The copper drain plug washer seeps on mine unless I sock the $#!T! out of it!

EDIT-> The top portion of the pan is a stock Ford pan, this is the sealing area, except for the drain plug. So it should stay sealed just as well as a stocker. EXCEPT FOR THE POS copper drain plug gasket which is soooo old school it isn't even funny!

Check your front crank shaft damper/pulley. It may have shifted it's ring or may be starting to come apart.
 
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ac427cobra

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The copper drain plug washer seeps on mine unless I sock the $#!T! out of it!

EDIT-> The top portion of the pan is a stock Ford pan, this is the sealing area, except for the drain plug. So it should stay sealed just as well as a stocker. EXCEPT FOR THE POS copper drain plug gasket which is soooo old school it isn't even funny!

Check your front crank shaft damper/pulley. It may have shifted it's ring or may be starting to come apart.

Jimmy:

Is your copper gasket solid or copper wrapped around an inner liner? I think you'll find replacing it should help the seepage! :coolman:
 

BlackBolt9

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EDIT-> The top portion of the pan is a stock Ford pan, this is the sealing area, except for the drain plug. So it should stay sealed just as well as a stocker. EXCEPT FOR THE POS copper drain plug gasket which is soooo old school it isn't even funny!

Check your front crank shaft damper/pulley. It may have shifted it's ring or may be starting to come apart.

I thought that was just for the Canton STEEL pan? Now I'm confused, go figure:??::shrug:
 

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