chain guide pins they are 6mm in the 13-14 gt500.....8mm in previous years.
The 2 step launch controller is hard on the timing components because there is A LOT of inertia in the timing components when it cuts the ignition at low speed. By low I mean below 3500 rpms etc. The timing chain tensioners must absorb all that energy and part of that system is the pivot pins. It is a rapid hit to. The guys chilling on the 2 step will break quickly.
ALL 2011-2014 GT500s need the pin upgrade before using the 2-step launch control feature. 2007-2010 features the iron block which used pressed in 8mm dowels. The 11-14 pins are 6mm and will break with extended 2-step usage.
The no-lift shift feature is different. It is a complete ignition cut when youre at WOT but it allows the throttle body to stay open. That keeps the engine in boost while you make your shift. You will NOT miss a shift with the No Lift activated. It literally is pure ****ing magic on how it works.
My car has the 1-2 grind. Greatly improved with an MGW2 and Redline D4 ATF. The WOT Box no lift has let me mash a 1-2 upshift flawlessly every time Ive tried on the street. 2-3 and 3-4 are just as effortless. Feels like your shifting a display model at a car show or something. Easiest it will ever get.
Timing wise, its just like youre letting off the gas to make a shift. No abnormal hits to the system like a 2-step launch.
I highly recommend a WOT Box for no lift shift. Ive no plans to use the launch controller until Ive had my long block out, and rebuilt to handle 1500 hp. And thats a long way off.
You should have no issues wiring the box in.
I found and verified all my wires before cutting. Because Im a weirdo, I soldered in wire extensions to all my wires such that, in the even I ever needed to remove the WOT box for any reason I could just cut and splice/solder the necessary wires with ease.
Use rosin core solder and use shrink wrap on every solder joint to keep moisture out. Its critical as these are mainline circuits to the ecu and to the igniter. Wire crimping this job is a serious no no!
Solder the black wire ground eyelet after you crimp it. Even though its going inside the car, its a good idea to shrink tube it as well.
You'll be removing the battery and tray as well as the passenger inner fender liner to run the harness. I actually used a length of heater hose to pass the wires under the battery tray to avoid any potential for chaffing or cutting into the wire harness. I extended that hose all the way to body grommet/seal where it passes from the cabin into the engine bay for harness protection. A generous wrapping of tape keeps the hose to the grommet. A small piece of mind kinda thing in case something happens to come through the fender liner for whatever reason.
Make a jumper wire! The thick Red and Orange wires in the WOT Box harness are your wires from the ECU to the WOT Box and WOT Box to the igniters. The car WILL NOT run without either the WOT Box installed or a jumper wire installed. Ive got my jumper wire in my car at all times just in case.
BTW, pulling the WOT box all but guarantees youre car will never be stolen by being driven away.
Man I could watch those vids all day.I use it and have been for years.....i swear by it, i had it on my 9.4 @ 150 2010 gt500 with the 4.0L Whipple and i have it on my current 2014 gt500...good word of advice above to upgrade the pivot pins they are smaller then previous gen and prone to break....I upgraded mine to the 8mm via the kit from cobraracing....i also did the oil pump gears, crank sprocket and did the secondary chain and tensioner....07-12 gt500 your fine 13-14 you should upgrade the pins....he is my 14 in action with the wotbox set to .050ms....its just test n tune so im not trying to cut a light by any means but you can hear that i dont stay on the 2 step long at all and im definately powershifting rowing through the gears....
Ah, yes the pins. Youll have to Contact James at Cobra Engineering and see if he has made any more production runs of his drill plate (http://www.cobraengineering.net/drill fixture.html). About a month ago when I was researching parts for a timing system upgrade, he told me he was out but was getting ready to make a new batch.
I would NOT recommend attempting this without a drill plate on your own. The pins MUST be 90 degrees to the block face otherwise you'll have issues with component alignment.
The only other way to get the pins installed is to take your whole block to an engine builder who has their own machine shop. They have to set up the block under a drill press to get the holes properly drilled at 90 degrees to the block face and tapped.
I would also seriously consider upgrading the following while you're motor is torn down:
1. Passenger secondary tensioner kit to correct passenger intake timing at high load/RPMs
2. Secondary chains and secondary billet gears (prone to failure if subjected to a lot of abuse esp with high lift cams)
3. Billet crank gear
4. Billet oil pump gears
5. ARP crank pulley bolt and cam gear bolts. Factory are 1 use torque to yield.
Maybe give billetproshops.com a call and see what they recommend? I know they are in the east of Canada, but perhaps they know someone in your area. Maybe a built shortblock with the upgraded pins installed might be an easier way to go? Its more cash up front but less overall headache.
If you can get the plate from Cobra Engineering any local engine shop should be able to perform the install. Again, I recommend upgrading the timing components when the car is torn down. Good luck!
You should have no issues wiring the box in.
I found and verified all my wires before cutting. Because Im a weirdo, I soldered in wire extensions to all my wires such that, in the even I ever needed to remove the WOT box for any reason I could just cut and splice/solder the necessary wires with ease.
Use rosin core solder and use shrink wrap on every solder joint to keep moisture out. Its critical as these are mainline circuits to the ecu and to the igniter. Wire crimping this job is a serious no no!
Solder the black wire ground eyelet after you crimp it. Even though its going inside the car, its a good idea to shrink tube it as well.
You'll be removing the battery and tray as well as the passenger inner fender liner to run the harness. I actually used a length of heater hose to pass the wires under the battery tray to avoid any potential for chaffing or cutting into the wire harness. I extended that hose all the way to body grommet/seal where it passes from the cabin into the engine bay for harness protection. A generous wrapping of tape keeps the hose to the grommet. A small piece of mind kinda thing in case something happens to come through the fender liner for whatever reason.
Make a jumper wire! The thick Red and Orange wires in the WOT Box harness are your wires from the ECU to the WOT Box and WOT Box to the igniters. The car WILL NOT run without either the WOT Box installed or a jumper wire installed. Ive got my jumper wire in my car at all times just in case.
BTW, pulling the WOT box all but guarantees youre car will never be stolen by being driven away.
Ok great, I have a lot to think about now. I will definitely be upgrading everything you mentioned when It's torn down. What do you think this will withstand power wise being built with everything you listed?
Fixed from someone who learned the hard way.The billet oil pump gears are MANDATORY.